Team Chevelle banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part May's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello,
I've recently replaced the dash harness and I now have the use of the cig lighter; not for smoking but other accesories. Problem is that while the engine is not running, and a door is open (thus dome light on) it blows the fuse when I attempt to draw power from the cig lighter source. Any ideas why this is occuring? Thanks. Sorry about the duplicate posts last time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,762 Posts
Did you fix your other problem with the lights? Someone did suggest a possible ground problem with the dash. Are you using the proper size fuse in there? Should be a 20 amp. If you don't open the door, that is, nothing else is running on that circuit, does the fuse pop?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm changing out the head light switch tonight to fix the dash light problem - thanks. As for the cig. lighter, I have not tried using it with the doors shut. After I put the dash back together I will see. Off hand, do you know how to get the head light knob/ shaft combo. off of the head light switch so that the nut behind it can be reached to take the unit it self off? Thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
usually their is a button on the side of the switch, if you reach up under the dash and feel around the side of the switch you should find it, pull the knob out then press it in and move the knob in and out a little bit and it should release and come out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,762 Posts
Cortez is right on the switch removal. Just to mention something. A lot of the stuff in the forums down here gets saved for a long time, unlike the upper General Tech 2001 and Bench Racing. Hit the search key. Someone asked the same question a couple of days ago (again). One of the benefits of this site. Here it is. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/Forum22/HTML/001410.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys for the help. I eventually found the detent button and swapped out the head light switch. While I was in there, I ensured the head light switch was grounded from the ground strap to the dash frame (to the right of the e-brake handle). Unfortunatly, I still have no dash illumination lights. I rechecked the 4amp fuse to insure it was alright and still no luck. I then attempted to pull off the lead illumination wire that leads from the dash harness to the top left most position of the instrument cluster. I was not able to remove the bulb housing to check the grounding between the housing and another metal source. So, if you could help me out, 1) how do you remove that darn bulb housing from the cluster housing, and 2) when I am able to check the grounding of it, is there anything else I should check that would cause my illumination lights to not come on? Sorry to bother you, but I do appreciate the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,762 Posts
The left most bulb in the cluster with the grey wire attached? The one that's in the printed wiring board? Think I have the year of the car right. Should be a 1/4 turn twist out socket. Measure the grey wire to ground with a meter. Should have 12 volts on it when the head light switch is on.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,960 Posts
You didn't mention a year, but the wiring diagram on my 67 shows a single orange wire (14 ga.) running from the lighter element to the fuse box and a 20amp fuse. The dome lamp, hazzard flasher, license plate lamp, glvoe compartment lamp, clock and courtesy lamps on the same circuit.

References:
fuses
instrument panel wiring diagram
fuse panel wiring diagram

------------------
Dale McIntosh
TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67SS & 67 Elky
Dale's Place
Team 67
Integrity: If you have it, it doesn't matter - If you don't have it, it doesn't matter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the help, the problem is solved. I insured that the ground strap was good by clipping on an aligator clip/ wire set up to the head light strap and grounding it elsewhere. Still with no lights, I then measured the volts at the infeed wire to the socket that leads to the dash housing (far left). I had 12.06 volts with the lights on. I then removed the dash again to get out the socket that leads from the wiring harness to the dash. The original socket was a 1/4 turn as John had said, but this was different, with two clips that had to be depressed to remove. I then insured that the copper circuit that provides the juice to the remaining bulbs (to the right of the lead) was facing/ positioned properly. At this time, only the lead bulb would light up. Further comparison btw the new lead socket and the old showed that the new lacked any prongs on the socket to distribute juice to the copper circuit. So, I cut the new off and spliced on the old. After this, the dash lights worked great. On my voice mail at work this am I received a phone call in response to my email inquiry to M&H Electric. As Tim said, "it appears we used the incorrect socket for the lead". Anyhow, I just wanted to share the info and say thanks for your help. As for the cig. lighter incident, I haven't tried since the dash lights are working; though I'm not sure this would make a difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,762 Posts
"As for the cig. lighter incident, I haven't tried since the dash lights are working; though I'm not sure this would make a difference."

Offhand I also don't see how they are related. At least you are half way there.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top