[ebe326]

Well I finally got the frame done. Me and Brad got the frames back from galvanizing about a week and a half ago. I ordered the recommended primer from anchor paint and split it with Brad. I just ended up top-coating it with a semi-gloss enamel spray paint. Not the most durable stuff but it looks great and isn't really there for protection anyway. Easy to touch up too. So anyway, here's some pics. Thanks for everyone's input and especially Pete, Herb and Brad.

Sandblasted---

Galvanized---

Primed---

Painted---

David

 

[FameSS-396]

Looks Great!
Did you spray paint the boxed interior areas of the frame or did you leave it galvanized?

 

[ebe326]

I just left them galvanized. They have a little overspray but thats it.

David.

 

[Herb]

David,

Super!!!! Looks like it should. Don't wrry about the durability of the top coat. The thing that is a little strange to get your head around is that it's COSMETIC, strictly for looks!!! Your'e right, easy touch up. After I finished my frame, there were a few scratches in the top coat (that primer sticks like glue to the zinc!!) from running the lines and bolting things on, etc. etc. I just touched them up and it looks like it did before. You'll be able to do that anytime. The real protection is PERMANENT, it's the zinc and that will never stop protecting the frame, top coated or not. Doesn't get any better than that.

Now, make sure you have 5/16 tap handy to clean out the 4 or 5 holes that take those bolts. You might also need to use a coarse or fine "rat tail" file to clean the few other holes for thru-bolts, like the front lower and all rear control arms. I didn't but some do. Other that you shouldn't have any issues because of galvanizing. I thing Tom Parsons had to ream his emergency brake cable "thu frame holes" on his GTO frame. I cleaned mine with a file just in case. Worked great.

The best thing is that you can do the rest of your project knowing you started the rebuild with a first class frame job!!! Congratualtions on a wise decision.

Let me know if you guys have any issues and I'll be glad to help. Just PM me.

Herb Goodfellow Sr.

 

[1badss396]

Looks great Dave, I finally got all my parts and frame primed 3 coats primer.now funny thing the primer kinda smells like one of my employees stale beer, LOL So now my garage kinda smells like stale beer, LOL

Herb, your right on about the primer sticks like glue! Very Tough stuff, and goes a long ways too!

 

[FameSS-396]

I am still thinking of galvanize, then Por-15, then top coat on my frame. I wanted to powdercoat, but timewise I think it will be faster if I paint it myself.
I dont know if I need the primer part if I am using the POR-15. I will have to call them first. I think the POR-15 will be more durable than regular enamel paint.
How much paint did it take to finish each coat? Brush on or spray?

 

[Donnie1]

you couldnt pay me to put that por crap on a clean frame.

i might use it on a winter beater.

oh, sorry i got side tracked the frame in the pics looks nice.

 

[ebe326]

I don't know much about POR-15 but from what I hear it would be more durable. Just not sure about it sticking to the galvanize. Like you said you'll have to call them. I brushed on the primer and it only took a little bit, I'd say less than a quart. The top coat was spray paint and took nine cans for two good coats. There is a lot of waste when spraying.

David.

 

[LateNight72]

No Por!

I bought a small amount, did up a test panel, and stuck it under my D.D.

Stuff Sucks..

Will never use it on my chevelle. Plus the only real reason to use it would be to cover up previously rusted areas, and protect against rust.. The cleaning prior to Galvanizing and the Galvanizing take care of both of these things. The POR would just be an astetics thing... But, if you are painting it after POR? Then why waste the extra money on por?

-Todd

 

[Chevyboy]

I used por-15 on my frame after i had it dipped and because who wants to every week have to touch up the bottom of the frame to keep it looking show quality. Its like you doing all of this for no reason. Just for it to mess up again but i sprayed my por-15 on instead of brushing it i think it gives it a more uniform look like it was almost powdercoated and then i top coated it with a Frame black but my main reason of using it is because it is hard and can take the hits from rocks and road debris and if my top coat do get scratch you want be able to tell because the por-15 is on the bottom and is black too.

 

[72 MOHAVE GOLD]

WOW your frame looks great well worth the time an effort.
can you post some information as far as how clean your frame
has to be when you take it to the galvanizers, and any other information
i hope to take mine next month

 

[shep_77]

WOW your frame looks great well worth the time an effort.
can you post some information as far as how clean your frame
has to be when you take it to the galvanizers, and any other information
i hope to take mine next month

I think it dependes on who you have do it some say that no prep is required but others say you need to sand blast first.
I just spoke with a Galvanizer in my area they said that the acid bath that they use does not remove undercoating or road oil so the frame will need to be cleaned of that so the zinc will stick.
You should probably go talk to who ever is going to do it and see what they want.

 

[Herb]

Guys, remember, the paint is purely cosmetic. It really adds no additional protection to galvanized metal. The "galvanic action" of the zinc being a less noble metal than the steel is what protect the frame if a chip happens. That's why rust won't creep under the galvanizing.

I hope anybody who wants to use POR-15 on galvanized metal calls them first. I did and was told it isn't made for, or recommended for galvanized metal. It makes no sense to use it since it's a rust protecctor. If you want durability against chips etc. use an epoxy-like paint or powder coat it. Why use a non-UV stable rust protector on galvanized metal only to top coat it with enamel?? Makes no sense to me but it's your frame and your time and money.

It took less than 1 qt. of paint for me to brush 2 coats on my frame. I still have an inch in the bottom of the can. Same with the primer, less than a qt for 2 coats. My total paint cost was about $30 for the entire frame, all 4 control arms and the crossmember. And that's only because you can only buy that Anchor brand industrial primer in a gallon for $14.

Having said all this, my ony real concern is that anyone considering galvanizing their frame do a search in the forum group on the word "galvanized" and/or "galvanizer" and read the past threads on the subject. There are things you need to know before you do it and that info is there. I asked if you-all wanted this frame galvanizing information a single place here (a sub-forum) and got no replies. So do your own leg work. But at least do it to insure you don't screw up, (like let them oil quench your frame and then try to paint it). Jason and David did their homework and got the results they were looking for. Good job guys!

Bottom line, it's all good if it keeps em out of the junk yard.

 

[pbhammes]

Can you tell me what brand or epoxy primer you used? The place I had my frame done told me to spray vinager on it before painting to etch the galvanizing.

 

[1badss396]

I used my air sander 3" small one with a heavy duty scrubby pad on it and went over the farme after It was galvanized then I used the green scrubby pad from wal mart with straight white vinager in a spray bottle then washed off the frame and other parts then just use the anchor brand 2700 primer, then paint it thats it! like Herb said total cost was cheap. And ZERO rust ever again!! I guess I will have to gice my 69 Vert to my grandson when Iam too old and feeble to drive it, LOL

 

[BillsCamino]

blasted,galvanized,primed and painted

I thought this was a topic about me at last year's Xmas party...

 

[ebe326]

Like it has been stated, you really need to ask the galvanizer you are using what prep work they want. The one down here in Tampa said to sandblast it because they don't do a cleaning process to remove paint and undercoating. As Brad said, just scrub the frame down after galvanizing to remove any loose pieces and to scuff it up a little. Then wash it down with vinegar(I used straight vinegar) and rinse it off. Now it's ready for primer. Anchorpaint.com is the place we got ours from. 2700 series is the right stuff. The guy there was real nice and the primer came in under a week. It's a bit of a process but well worth it.

David

 

[1badss396]

Probably was Bill or could have been at Daytona when you were here, lol

 

[Donnie1]

I used por-15 on my frame after i had it dipped and because who wants to every week have to touch up the bottom of the frame to keep it looking show quality. Its like you doing all of this for no reason. Just for it to mess up again.

Guess I better go out in the garage and tell my two part epoxy that it should be scratched and falling off.

 

[Herb]

Can you tell me what brand or epoxy primer you used? The place I had my frame done told me to spray vinager on it before painting to etch the galvanizing.

I don't know who you are asking that question of. I used the ANCHOR primer product. Yes you need to scrub the frame with a green Scotch pad and white vinegar before painting it. BUT you also needed to tell the galvanizer to skip the last step, OIL QUENCHING if you are going to paint it. They probably did or will since you discussed primer. (maybe) You need to do the search I spoke of earlier and READ. It's all there.

If primer and paint, or epoxy primer/paint doesn't appeal to you, Industrial Galvanizing recommend polyester powder coating. It's a factor of your wallet. And the fact that unpainted properly galvanized steel in a marine like environment will probably only last 50 years before it STARTS to rust. Let's see, my 67 frame already lasted 39 years without galvanizing, and will only last maybe another 50 to 70 years with a coat of primer and latex paint. I'm 59 so I guess I should be worried, NOT. Come on guys, decide what you want it to look like and go with that. The protection is done.

Bill, I heard about you and that party. I heard you were properly lubed.

Hey Donny, I used a 2 part process too - open can, apply paint