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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 67 chevelle 283,ps,pb auto trans. got a 396 that was in a 66 chevelle ps,pb,auto trans. I tried new hooker headers 2" comps #2455-1 and the flange hit the ARP head bolts I did not grind clearance on the flange because it hit the steering and the passenger side it hit the frame. if I modify the headers I can't send them back. also the tall valve covers hit the power booster. the motor has full roller rockers and need tall covers. now this motor and combo was in a 66 and won't fit in my 67 even with the 1-3/4" headers I got with the motor. I change the frame motor mounts to big block mounts and used the same moroso solid motor mounts. I put the motor in 4 times yesterday nothing fits.

suggestions please, Maynard

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Not for the shy and faint of heart...we did this on a buddy's BBC, when we found the same thing....

Is the head studded? If so, grind the stud....if that isnt it, well, I'm out, but I hope for you that is your arrangement and this helps

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**Dave Armstrong**
'67 Chevelle 396/Th400/4.10
12.45 @ 107 mph. 1.74 60ft

'95 Firebird Formula LT1(2FST4LOV)
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Just in regard to the roller rocker issue, you can also get gaskets from Fel-Pro or Mr. Gasket that are double thick with a steel insert. They will do the trick and allow you to use a shorter or even a stock valve cover.

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Dan Orgill
 

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I always find it necessary to modify headers to make them fit. I have never had a pair that dropped on without banging with a hammer or grinding the flanges. You will have to grind down the flange to clear the ARP head bolts and possibly bend in some tubes slightly for clearance.
 

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You'd think that after all the problems people have installing this stuff, the manufactures would get it right. I was looking at the '72 with a 502 in the new Hotrod mag, and noticed that they had to "wack" the driver's side header to clear the steering. One of the reasons I stick with "stock" manifolds on the street. Sure you loose some horsepower, but it doesn't rattle, bang and leak either. Maybe if more of us took this approach (and didn't buy their "attempt" at cobbled up headers) the vendors would pay attention. OK now I feel better....
 

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Maynard, if the smaller tube headers arent rusted through, I;d prefer you use them. The 2" tube will give your 396 a header peak torque of over 5500 rpm. You running a 5000+ stall converter? Didnt think so. 2" too big. Bang, chop and cut the small tube headers to fit. THEN send them out for coating ( yeah I know its a hassle to wait).

Send the Hookers back.

Run stock dripper type covers. I dont think you can get away with the slanted back ones but I donnow. I run the Felpro double gasket Hi-Tacked to the heads and a FelPro rubber tacked to the cover itself. Good clearance, no leaks.

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Gene Chaas
Gold Member 62/ACES 3112
67 SS 427
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Here is the process I used to install Hooker Competition headers in my 66 with the 454 in the car. You need to install the driver's side headers first. Remove the hood and the steering column to get them out of the way. Next, I removed the single bolt that holds the drivers side motor mount to the frame mount and tilted the engine towards the passenger side. The headers should install from the top side of the engine bay. Lower the engine back into place and bolt in the flange in about three places Reinstall your steering column and mark where the column interfers with your headers. Remove your column and headers again and dimple your headers with a piece of 1" pipe and a hammer to get clean radius. Reinstall the drivers side headers and steering column. Repeat until you clear your steering columnn completely. Make sure to put the motor mount screw and lock nut back on.

The passenger side headers can be installed from underneath the car fairly easily (as compared to the drivers side). You'll need to jack up the car, block the rear wheels and support the car with jack stands. You need enough room underneath to kind of rotate the headers into place. They should fit just perfectly between the block and the frame rail.

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Armando
San Gabriel, CA
66 Malibu,454,M22
57 Bel Air
95 Impala SS
 

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So now I find out that my ARP head bolts I just bought won't fit my headers when I put the motor back in. Why always me???


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69 Malibu 454
ACES Member #3635
 
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I got to ask this, is all that nonsense about taking the steering out and the hood off in the instructions for the headers???

Or is it covered by a blithe statement "minor alterations may be needed for fit"?

I can't believe we continue to do this, beat up new headers just because they are poorly made.
 

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I recently put a 454 in a 68 for a customer. Car was originally a 307 nad I reused the 307 engine and frame mounts and installed Dynomax headers. The headers fit perfectly - no mods or tube dinging although they do require jacking up the left side of the engine. Strangely enough, I have the same headers in my car, installed about 5 yrs ago, and they rub the steering shaft. Mine are installed in a 72 w/ a 454 on 350 mounts. I read about frame spread here about a month ago and wonder if that has something to do with it, although the frt end aligned with no problem. Jim.
 

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72ragtop,
what size of headers did you use. I was looking at the ones that Jegs sells that are coated inside and outside, but they do not mention size in their catalog.
Thanks
 

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yanniz, I'm pretty sure they're 1 3/4" (could measure if it's critical tomorrow). I got them from summit for around $200. coated. They're coated by Jet Hot, coating is rusting thru on mine and after reading the paperwork that came with the set for the 68 I get the impression they don't want to warrantee the coating ( quote "nothing lasts forever"). On my own car I think I'm going to go with Hedmans when my new motor is done and see how they hold up. Jim.
 

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Do you have tall Moroso mts. in that thing. I think you do. My 67 has the 2 inch hooker headers comp series, with p.brakes stock size and air conditioning. The pipes fit in no problem. I have the tall moroso valve covers, soon to in stall GM cast tall covers. Some things wrong with your app. Get a stock mt at the parts store and compare to the moroso mt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have the Moroso standard motor mount #500, I am going to try the tall mount #510, because the header is right on the steering shaft and rag joint. The difference in the frame mounts for the '66 &'67 is the mount is forward about 3/8" for the big block mount. I think I should try a 1 3/4" header but there is not much of a choice out there. I am convinced that no two frames are alike not even in the same model year.

Thanks again, Maynard
 

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Maynard,

Use Hedman PN 68196 headers. They are coated and have 1 3/4' tubes with a 3" collector. They fit the tall head bolts on the aftermarket aluminum heads without grinding the flange. They fit in my 67 with no "adjusting" and plenty of ground clearance. I did have to grind about 1/16" off of my Lakewood bellhousing on the passenger side just to make sure they wouldn't rub. Thanks to Mark 502 for the recomendation of these headers.

The passenger side header went right in from the bottom. For the drivers side, remove the clutch Z-bar, if you have one, remove the drivers side motor mount though bolt and jack up the engine from the frame a couple of inches. You can now insert the header from the bottom.

Most 67's with stock power brake boosters, including mine, won't fit tall valve covers on a big block. I also have roller rockers. I use low profile valve covers with one thick and one thin gasket on each side and they clear the power brake booster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I appreciate everyone's support. I ordered a set of Headmans 68196 and double sets of valve cover gaskets. I will let you know how it turns out. I like what Gene Chaas said about the 1 3/4' vs 2" this is a street machine and cruiser with a 3:55 gear, I won't need power over 5000 rpm very often. I had new sheet metal,paint,interior, well lets say a frame up resto and I saved the easy part (motor install) for last and it turns out to be a big pain in the ice hole.

Again thanks everyone,
Maynard
 

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Hey guys, I'm wondering if this may be a possible solution to at least one of these problems.
Does anyone know if the later model GM small diameter brake booster will fit the early cars. If so, and that's a big "IF", the tall valve covers might fit. Has anyone tried to bolt one of these up on an early car. For reference my '79 Malibu wagon has one but my '81 has the large booster. I'm not sure which cars came with it or what option dictated that a car got one because from the cars that I have looked at it's random whether or not they are equipped with a large or small one.

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Rod
'70 Chevelle frame-off (restification in progress)
'81 Malibu Classic Landau street/strip

[This message has been edited by Rmchevelle (edited 06-05-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Rmchevelle (edited 06-05-2001).]
 

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Rmchevelle,

Part #5473540 at Autozone will fit tall valve covers no problem. I run tall Merlin valve covers and have room to spare. $85.99 Off an 80's camaro if I remember right.
 

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mikeg,
Thanks, that's great.
What year is your car???

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Rod
'70 Chevelle frame-off (restification in progress)
'81 Malibu Classic Landau street/strip
 
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