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You can bore it out .30 over or I would look at a stroker kit from Speedomotive if you plan on rebuilding it.

I ran an Ultradyne 280/288 cam and that worked great with a 750dp and Edelbrock. 3.55 with a 2300 stall. Plenty of fun on the street.

I'm going to a 540 though, the 396 just don't have the power or torque I'm after.
 

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402 BBC
L88 forged crank
TRW L2240NF30 Forged Pistons (9.75:1)
Eagle I-Beam rods
GM iron oval port heads (Casting # 3904390) with Manley valves (2.06 Intake/1.72 Exhaust) Bowl Blending, and 3-angle valve job
Crane Gold roller rockers
Competition Cams Xtreme solid roller cam XR274R(236/242 @.050, .639/.646 lift, 108 LSA)
Crane roller lifters
Stock L88 pushrods
Edelbrock RPM Performer intake
Holley HP750 Double Pumper Carb
 

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Someone jsut asked me ( at CB)&) about a roller cam for a 396. 10:1 3:73 M21 combo, and off the cuff, I said 236-7/243-4, and I'd have his done on a 112 or 110 lsa. Prolly 112 due to the shallow M21 ratio.

Great sounding combo 67 SuperSport! How does it run?
 

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Second smartass answer - sell it to somebody looking for a 396 and buy yourself a 454 block and build a 454 or even a 496. Don't give up the cubes unless you have to. If you're in love with the short stroke engine, buy a steel crank off ebay for $200 and build a 427. Unless it's a restoration and/or you're required to use a small bore block, there are many more pistons to choose from, etc. on a 454 than a 396 and it may even be less expensive on a few parts.
 

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1970 SS454 LS6 11 second street car
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I Just Got A 396 Big Block Complete For $200.00 From A Friend Want To Build A Nice Street Strip Motor. Please Give Me A Few Combos That U Guy's Think Work.......
What year is the block? What are the cylinder head casting numbers ? What is your ET goal since you mentioned street/strip
 

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Busted knuckles, a smart arse reply right back -not everyone needs the latest , greatest or biggest.

Chris asked the right questions. My comments were on that small roller cam.
 

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there are many more pistons to choose from, etc. on a 454 than a 396 and it may even be less expensive on a few parts.
Can a 454 be built for under $3k with quality parts including rebuilt heads, forged crank and forged pistons and a hydro flat tappet cam?
 

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What year is the block? What are the cylinder head casting numbers ? What is your ET goal since you mentioned street/strip
Just found this thread, and had some of the same questions....
I have a '67 396 "3902406" block w/ iron '67 "3909802" heads with stock valves, and a 4spd with a 3.42 posi. I am getting ready to start building my motor next week and wanted some ideas on a FT cam, intake, pistons, and carb. I want a fun street car with some attitude, pump gas friendly, no strip action...

I've been thinking about a RPM Performer, or an Air Gap intake. I have a Holley 770SA that I can pick up for 200.00 and kind of want to utilize that carb, and not have to buy another one. Looking for a nice rough idle, but want it to be very streetable. I've had a few people recommend either a Lunati 60203 or a Comp 280 Magnum cam. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated, as I have to start collecting parts soon. :D
 

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I would recommend the old "BSE" 396/402 Engine Combo from Racer1320 for a street/strip application. Can someone here post that combo for oneg360? It included a Ultradyne 280/288 FT hydraulic cam cut on a 110 LSA, I believe, with a Qjet.

Otherwise, you won't beat 67Super Sport's combo for strip.

Charles
 

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My advice to friends usually is to spend money on decking block obtaining proper quench area for bore size. Selecting quality valvetrain components from reputable sources. Not to chase after high HP numbers but look extreamely close at torque curve expectations of components selected. Developing a buisiness relationship with reputable shop after all who knows more this can and likely prove cost effective along with receiving quality products. For most your willingness towards prompt scheduled payments no shop wants or needs your junk cause your a deadbeat that dont pay. Alluminum heads are great but like your old heads have your shop check them out. There have been many failures before. Good shops need not have all the equipment lots of times work is subed out. Good luck. PS My first post since posting rights reinstated
 

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Id use the factory crank and rods with good prep and ARP fasteners, and a good forged piston such as SRP. No less than 10:1 comp for me. The short stroke will like the compression, if not a little more than 10:1.

Id be using a factory closed chamber oval head with a little bowl work and work in the chambers to unshroud the valves if necessary.

Performer rpm intake, 750 double pumper carb, and a 1.75 header.

If you want as little maintenance as possible and good reliability, but still having power... Id consider a hydraulic roller setup.

Howards cams has some very good looking cams. I dont remember the exact specs off the top of my head, but one is a bout 230/236 at .050 with either .600/.600 or .620/.620 lift. They have one thats maybe a hair milder at 228/234 with .580ish. These are similar to what Im looking into for my 408(402 based).

I'll be using the GM ZZ502 cam for now. The cam is on the way and just ordered the morel lifters from Chris yesterday.

The rest of the stats on my 408 build are very similar to what I have listed above. Right now its a hydraulic flat tappet motor and the cam is healthy, but plenty streetable.

As is, it runs very very well and is a fun street motor. I expect it to be stronger yet with the roller without throwing street manners out the window.

If you wanted to go cheaper on the cam/valvetrain, I WAS previously considering one of the new lunati solid flat tappets. Its 238/248 at .050 with roughly .585/.585 lift on a 112 LSA.

I think that cam would rock in a 396 based street build, but I went a different direction. Decided Id rather go roller.
 
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