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That 294s cam is really not a street friendly cam. 294/294, 248/248 @ .050, .525/.525. Take your time, you'll end up happier with the build. When you get the heads off, post more pics and don't rush out and buy parts.
 

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That 294s cam is really not a street friendly cam. 294/294, 248/248 @ .050, .525/.525. Take your time, you'll end up happier with the build. When you get the heads off, post more pics and don't rush out and buy parts.
and measure the stroke too
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Yup, he might even have a 383. won't know until the heads come off
I will measure bore and stroke after removing the heads. Since now I know it has Sportsman 2s on it with 200/64cc (maybe more if they were reworked) I'm starting to lean more towards Skip White's NKB 272s which were the same volumes. You can't beat the price of $719 for a set complete.
I'm also gonna check if I have a 2 or 4 bolt main block with an inspection camera since my timing cover is still off.
 

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There is nothing wrong with Sportsman heads and I would personally not change them unless they have been heavily reworked. I used them with my 10 to 1 L82 with a Roller cam I believe a 224/230 duration with a lift around .0520 Comp Cam and ran great on the street. Roller cams are more forgiving then flat tappets for vacuum but harder on the drivetrain. The cracked rockers could be as simple as the wrong length pushrods or bind as I previously mentioned. Remember the Ol'e saying about assholes and opinions, everybody has one. I suspect you will find the lower end has been built. The previous owner used some high quality stuff from your pictures and I suspect he tried not to cut corners but may have build an engine for the strip and not the street. The rust in the block and heads may just need a good flush and just used a water wetter to keep things cool. Just so you know I am really just thinking out loud on paper.....
 

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I will measure bore and stroke after removing the heads. Since now I know it has Sportsman 2s on it with 200/64cc (maybe more if they were reworked) I'm starting to lean more towards Skip White's NKB 272s which were the same volumes. You can't beat the price of $719 for a set complete.
I'm also gonna check if I have a 2 or 4 bolt main block with an inspection camera since my timing cover is still off.
Compare the flow numbers of both heads. Then have the Sportsman's checked by a machinist and get a quote on the work needed.( they may need nothing) Compare both prices and go from there. The Sportsman's are an older head, but many strong engines have been built with them.
 

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We went 11.50's with Sportsman II heads on a 355 in a stock appearing 69 camaro. I would be hard pressed to replace them with Skip White stuff for no reason.
 
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Discussion Starter #48
We went 11.50's with Sportsman II heads on a 355 in a stock appearing 69 camaro. I would be hard pressed to replace them with Skip White stuff for no reason.
Seems like the popular opinion here is to go with what I have. I am curious about what size these combustion chambers are and what lies underneath...bore/stroke/piston. Question...if these need some "love" to get them freshened up how much money would you spend to get them done vs. going with a newer lighter head? It's not the original motor so that's not even a concern. Also...I'm not a fan of these headers at all and would like ideas on what would work with these angle plug heads without beating the hell out of the pipes to get them to work. As you can see...1.75 primaries were used on these discontinued Cyclone racing headers with double flanges to get the Accel shorties to work. Plus...since these are a 3 piece per side configuration the piece at the collector that brings them all together underneath leaks...ugggh. Since I have to pull these off to get the heads off I'd rather just get rid of them for a better fitting set. Please any thoughts on what works along with size would help!
 

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I will measure bore and stroke after removing the heads. Since now I know it has Sportsman 2s on it with 200/64cc (maybe more if they were reworked) I'm starting to lean more towards Skip White's NKB 272s which were the same volumes. You can't beat the price of $719 for a set complete.
I'm also gonna check if I have a 2 or 4 bolt main block with an inspection camera since my timing cover is still off.
What is all that blue stuff on the timing cover gasket area?
 

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Seems like the popular opinion here is to go with what I have. I am curious about what size these combustion chambers are and what lies underneath...bore/stroke/piston. Question...if these need some "love" to get them freshened up how much money would you spend to get them done vs. going with a newer lighter head? It's not the original motor so that's not even a concern. Also...I'm not a fan of these headers at all and would like ideas on what would work with these angle plug heads without beating the hell out of the pipes to get them to work. As you can see...1.75 primaries were used on these discontinued Cyclone racing headers with double flanges to get the Accel shorties to work. Plus...since these are a 3 piece per side configuration the piece at the collector that brings them all together underneath leaks...ugggh. Since I have to pull these off to get the heads off I'd rather just get rid of them for a better fitting set. Please any thoughts on what works along with size would help!
Hedman #68296 is what I have for my 65. I went to look at a used set of Dart 200cc Iron Eagle angle plug heads once and brought the headers with me to check plug clearance and there wasn't any issue. I would think you could sell the headers you have to someone building a big smallblock to help recover some of the cost of new headers. Header prices have gone way up!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Hedman #68296 is what I have for my 65. I went to look at a used set of Dart 200cc Iron Eagle angle plug heads once and brought the headers with me to check plug clearance and there wasn't any issue. I would think you could sell the headers you have to someone building a big smallblock to help recover some of the cost of new headers. Header prices have gone way up!
Yeah I was looking at the Hedman #68298 that are the ceramic coated version of yours I believe. The guy at Hedman suggested straight plug heads so that's why I'm asking here from people that have them installed. There's a Hooker Super Comp #2116 but they want just under $900 for those...yikes!:oops:
 

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#68296 are the standard full length header ceramic coated. # 68298 are the Elite series. They have thicker flanges, ball & socket collectors and are made of heavier gauge tubing. I bought mine used, but if I were buying new, I would spring the extra money for the Elites. Much better header for about $25 more
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Today's discovery...bought an inspection camera for my phone so I can look through the front above the oil pan since the timing chain cover is off. Was trying to determine if I have 2 or 4 bolt mains. Didn't get that far (still cold here in SE MI lol) but did notice that it has a windage tray in the pan. Yeah I know...get a garage heater! I'm almost certain now that when I get a chance to pull those heads that I'll be uncovering even more goodies...bore/stroke/piston upgrades.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Headers removed today and block drained. Will start on heads tomorrow. Will post pics and take measurements of bore/stroke. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions and keeping me from buying things I might not need ahead of time! Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Headers removed today and block drained. Will start on heads tomorrow. Will post pics and take measurements of bore/stroke. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions and keeping me from buying things I might not need ahead of time! Lol
Here's what I've found...Sealed Pro .030 over pistons...4" bore...3.5" stroke. Race shop guestimated valve size looks like 2.05/2.08 and 1.60 and comb. chambers at 64cc. Quoted me $4-500 to go through them and change the springs out for flat tappet springs to work with my cam. Offered to buy the heads for $250. Might take him up on that and put that towards new aluminums. Mentioned that 185-200cc intake runners would be ok with 64cc comb. chambers.

Comments?
 

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Here's what I've found...Sealed Pro .030 over pistons...4" bore...3.5" stroke. Race shop guestimated valve size looks like 2.05/2.08 and 1.60 and comb. chambers at 64cc. Quoted me $4-500 to go through them and change the springs out for flat tappet springs to work with my cam. Offered to buy the heads for $250. Might take him up on that and put that towards new aluminums. Mentioned that 185-200cc intake runners would be ok with 64cc comb. chambers.

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Did that piston kiss a valve?
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Did that piston kiss a valve?
Yeah I noticed that when I pulled the head. I'll be cleaning and inspecting the others tomorrow. The heads are sold to the shop so now I need advice on what the best all around set for my application would be.
 

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When you clean things up do not use 3m Scotch Brite or equivalent as the abrasive gets everywhere and can cause damage after startup. WD40 works well. I agree something looks like it hit the piston in the valve recess area. So your engine is a 355 now and with 64cc heads and 4 valve relief flat tops should be around 10 to 1. Maybe a hair less. Basically the 350/300 piston. My machinist recommends Dart heads for best bang for the bucks. For my wife's car (71 Camaro SS 350) I bought Summit cast iron heads that are made by Dart and got them for $650 delivered 2.02's but they are only 72cc chambers with 165 runners but we want a good running engine with streetability being most important making around 300-325hp. Still a smaller cc chamber then stock but! If you are going aluminum buy the best like AFR. They have a decent low cost head which is non CNC machined runners for reasonable money in aluminum. Their name excels their reputation and quality exceeds both. Keep it close to 10 to 1 IMO if you don't mind running high test. I really love my 327/350 cam and would be hard pressed to use anything else. I have used it in many 327's and 350's and it just a nice cam with a great lobe with a wide power range and with a 2000 stall would be great for the street but keep the compression up where it is now.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
When you clean things up do not use 3m Scotch Brite or equivalent as the abrasive gets everywhere and can cause damage after startup. WD40 works well. I agree something looks like it hit the piston in the valve recess area. So your engine is a 355 now and with 64cc heads and 4 valve relief flat tops should be around 10 to 1. Maybe a hair less. Basically the 350/300 piston. My machinist recommends Dart heads for best bang for the bucks. For my wife's car (71 Camaro SS 350) I bought Summit cast iron heads that are made by Dart and got them for $650 delivered 2.02's but they are only 72cc chambers with 165 runners but we want a good running engine with streetability being most important making around 300-325hp. Still a smaller cc chamber then stock but! If you are going aluminum buy the best like AFR. They have a decent low cost head which is non CNC machined runners for reasonable money in aluminum. Their name excels their reputation and quality exceeds both. Keep it close to 10 to 1 IMO if you don't mind running high test. I really love my 327/350 cam and would be hard pressed to use anything else. I have used it in many 327's and 350's and it just a nice cam with a great lobe with a wide power range and with a 2000 stall would be great for the street but keep the compression up where it is now.
Great advice. You have a part # by choice for those AFRs?
 
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