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I'm in the process of converting my 4-speed over to a 5-speed and in doing my bellhousing check I found that I have a runnout of .020" and they are saying .005" is the max...I can't believe that this will effect the transmission.

It looks live a major PITA to change these dowl pins...any suggestions?
 

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believe it 020 aint much,have seen worse,i got mine with in 007,,with moroso,,, when you say 20 do you meen total because you have to devide in half which gets you 10,,, Jeff
 

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I hear your pain.
I just installed a 5 speed richmond and it is not a bolt on or in. I bought the longer
Moroso off set dowel pins. I had to take my motor out due to new oil pan and the oem dowel pin would not come out. Killed two birds with one stone.Now I have to shorten my drive shaft due to the Lakewood changing the length of the trans. One inch is coming off .
Still working on this little project,good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
believe it 020 aint much,have seen worse,i got mine with in 007,,with moroso,,, when you say 20 do you meen total because you have to devide in half which gets you 10,,, Jeff
Thanks for reminding me Jeff, in my disappoinment of having to change the dowl pins I forgot to divide by 2, so you are correct I'm only .010" TIR, still not happy thou..
 

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I think Philip told me the newer 5 speeds have roller bearings to the input shaft alignment is more critical than the old muncie with ball bearings. jim
 

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I'm in the process of converting my 4-speed over to a 5-speed and in doing my bellhousing check I found that I have a runnout of .020" and they are saying .005" is the max...I can't believe that this will effect the transmission.

It looks live a major PITA to change these dowl pins...any suggestions?

The effect of out of tolerance concentricity, runnout, on the transmission is significant whether it's a deep-groove ball bearing or cylindrical roller bearing (even worse as stated above). With the transmission out of the car wiggle the input shaft, there is alot of movement since there is no forward bearing. The crank bushing/roller beaering serves this purpose. If the transmission is off center, the input shaft is running at an angle, cocking the input shaft bearing inner race to outer race and also the crank bushing/bearing. This caused premature wear of the bushing during shifting (relative motion between input shaft and bushing). However this cocked condition is present all the time and causes the gear teeth to run out of parellel, resulting in side loading on the teeth, meaning less of the tooth is carrying the power load. It's amazing to think of the abuse a manual transmission takes with side stepping the clutch and power shifting - having fun - but it is so much more severe with the crank shaft and transmission being out of alignment.
 

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I ended up with Robb's .014's on my old engine. Worked like a charm to get within .005. On my new ZZ502, with a new Quicktime bell, I got within .0005 with straight dowels. I know, that was luck combined with precision.
 

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Try knocking the OE dowels out a little further to see if it gets better, I found that they are a bit short, and the bell doesnt really "get on them" to good. If it gets better, just leave it or get the longer dowels.
 

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Don't run it if more than 6 thou out, I know from my first TKO conversion. I think I was at 9 thou and it was enough to shake the steering colum and dash pad up and down. :sad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I can't get the dowl pins out while they are in the car, I'm going to make a couple of calls on Monday to see if I can find someone to get them out as laying on my back under the car trying is not doing it....if not I will be pulling the motor to see if I can get them out that way.

This is the worst idea I have had converting over to a 5 speed as nothing is going good and the cutting the tunnel was something I really wish I did not do now...oh well.
 

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Get a pair of vice grips and work them back and forth - the'll come out
 

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A punch and a BFH will get them out:yes:
Guy
 
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