Team Chevelle banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
816 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m about to install a new titan pro pump. What would be ideal oil pressure to set it at? Aluminum rods strip/street deal. Mains are at 0035 Currently set at 100psi. 7600 rpm. What are you builders/racers doing. I’d like to avoid overheating the oil as well as run enough to not have any issues. I’ve heard everything from 10psi per 1000 rpm to 10psi per every 100ftlbs tq. In searching for the answer I’ve come across a lot about oil being bypassed being heated. Is this something I have to address with this setup? Anything to do or adjust before I install? Thanks in advance hopefully I’ll this up and running correctly by Friday so I can shake it down this weekend.
 

·
Premium Member
1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
Joined
·
10,595 Posts
I don't know the answer to your psi question but have you thought about running a remote oil cooler?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,557 Posts
these titan pumps area gerotor style oil pump and have adjustable regulators built into them. People usually weld a bung into the side of the pan to adjust the regulator. Pretty trick oil pump really.

100psi for 7600rpm is plenty of pressure. Honestly you could dial that back to 80psi and be really happy with that.

Like anything the more you pump the oil the more it will heat up. Minimizing what you can for pressure or bypassing will help with that situation.
 

·
Premium Member
Bill
Joined
·
1,880 Posts
Do you have 13 quarts of oil capacity? From their web site:

Make sure that oil pump turns freely before installation. Check to be sure that pump does not bind end to end (.008 to .100).

On G.M., Chevy, 392 Chrysler, and Ford pumps, be sure that the drive does not rub main cap or block (on sides). Be sure that the intermediate drive shaft has .008 to .100 end play.

On all pumps make sure that all lines, fittings and filters have maximum flow so that the pump can keep the crankshaft cool. Most big block engines need 13 to 14 quarts of oil, small blocks 11 to 13 quarts. (Blown Fuel/Alcohol Drag Racing Engines) Some engines require less.

We usually set pressure 90 to 120 psig peak pressure, for blown motors. But all gauges and dynamic conditions vary. We recommend 70 to 80 psig peak pressure, for normally aspirated motors. Some engines require less. Please call us if you have any questions.

Titan recommends 1/4" to 3/4" clearance between the pump pickup and the pan. The flow into the pump should not be restricted. Pans deeper than 8.5" from crank centerline can run more clearance than shallow pans.

On G.M. and early Chrysler pumps, be sure pumps sits flat on mating surface. Sometimes main studs and or indexing bores can interfere.

To raise or lower peak pressure, loosen 1/4-28 half nut (they have locktite on the nut and the set screw), turn the allen set screw clockwise to raise the pressure and counter clockwise to lower the pressure. Look for between 3 and 5 psig change per turn.

Titan recommends that the oil temperature be at least 140º F before loading an engine. On pumps shipped with drives that are long, cut hex end to set end play (.007 minimum).

On remote style pumps that have hose(s) or tubes that feed the suction side of the pump we strongly recommend that the fittings be lapped into the tapers for a perfect seal. Small vacuum leaks can cause bearing problems.

OIL DRAIN BACK

All wet sump oil systems require adequate oil drain-back to pan.

Titan does not recommend the use of screens in the valley area. If you do use them we recommend the use of external oil drains. (#8 or #10)

Oval track engines can accumulate a large volume of oil in the right valve cover and therefore can benefit from draining the valve cover to the pan. (external drain).

If you use a belt driven camshaft we recommend the use of a vapor equalizer tube (#16 or #20) between either the fuel pump boss or the upper edge of the pan and valve cover.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
816 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks guys. Great info. I added a thread in freeze plug to the pan so that I can make adjustments after the fact. I think I’ll dial it down to 80 and start from that point. I don’t want to run any more than needed because 13qt of oil is just not happening and frankly I’m worried about running out of capacity at the pick up before it can drain back, the heads hold a decent amount of oil before it drains. I run 6.8 qts. I may have to play with that level a bit.

I was debating running an oil cooler with the remote filter and fan on a thermostat. Mostly so that I can gain oil capacity and run a much larger filter to help further with capacity.
 

·
Premium Member
Bill
Joined
·
1,880 Posts
Adding a cooler and larger filter do not add capacity to the pick up area. Do you have oil restrictors installed to the top end?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
816 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Adding a cooler and larger filter do not add capacity to the pick up area. Do you have oil restrictors installed to the top end?
It wouldn’t help the recovery of oil in the pick area due to having a larger amount of oil in the system?
No I do not believe I have oil restricters.
when I ran the motor with the valve covers off I noticed that quite a bit of oil has to gather in the lifter valley and the cyl heads before it begins draining back. “ the lifter valley I noticed when I pull the intake.” I can test how much before I reinstall the motor, but I would get the lifter valley will hold close to a quart before it drains. And maybe a half quart in each cyl head. I’m open to suggestions before I reinstall the motor this weekend.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top