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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is how the big block in my wagon was when I got it….not having any cooling issues I know of, but is thos correct? Noticed my buddy has a small hose between water pump and where I have the heater hose hooked to.

8DDEFCD4-616B-4CF1-BD6B-87DB6FDCABD8.jpeg
 

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Bill
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It will work like that. The heater core is being used as the bypass hose. Just don't remove or valve off the heater core or you will need the short bypass hose.
 

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I always use the bypass hose between pump and intake, some says its not needed if thermostat is drilled or you have heater core. Some other says you may have hotspots and delay the opening of the thermostat without it.

GM put it there with heater core and small bypass in the thermostat so belive it was some reason for it.
 

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Never had a Bypass Hose on my BBC
but have the Heater Hoses connected and working
plus a 160* Thermostat with 2 Holes drilled in it

Engine with 550 HP that runs 170* to 190* on the Hwy with NO Efans on that has a Shroud/Rubber Flaps
And in City with one or two Efans on, and a Small 16" x 23.5" DF Alum Rad Core
717118
 

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Premium Member
1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
Joined
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3,270 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great, thanks. Its been this way the whole time and Ive not had any real issues. My thermostat is not drilled, maybe I should do that?

Today I swapped on the old 18” 6 blade steel fan / fan clutch that was on the sb…temp stays right at190 ish. Had been running a smaller plastic flex fan but never really cared for it.
 

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Do the Fan Blades sit 1/2 IN and 1/2 OUT of the Shroud opening ?
 

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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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3,270 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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I always plug the bypass and usually drill 2 small holes in the thermostat. I like 160 thermostat. Takes longer to heat up and runs 170 in 95 degree heat. 10 to 1 454 with a 18 inch clutch fan and stock aground.
 

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Great, thanks. Its been this way the whole time and Ive not had any real issues. My thermostat is not drilled, maybe I should do that?

Today I swapped on the old 18” 6 blade steel fan / fan clutch that was on the sb…temp stays right at190 ish. Had been running a smaller plastic flex fan but never really cared for it.
Leave the thermostat alone, it's fine!!
 

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Boldly procrastrinating
66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
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What Leo said. in fact, leave the whole thing alone unless it starts having problems.
 
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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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3,270 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the help and info! Took it for a bit of a drive today, some highway and some town. It was hot today! Stays around 190 on the highway…up around 200 in town and then 210 in the garage. Alittle warmer than Id like to see…temp sender is in the intake.

The radiator isn’t the correct width, not sure what it is out of…also the shroud isn’t all there. Will correct those issues and round up the 7 blade fan or maybe a dual elec fan setup like on my 71. I think that will take care of it.

These big blocks sure hold the heat, takes forever to cool back down.
 

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Thanks for the help and info! Took it for a bit of a drive today, some highway and some town. It was hot today! Stays around 190 on the highway…up around 200 in town and then 210 in the garage. Alittle warmer than Id like to see…temp sender is in the intake.

The radiator isn’t the correct width, not sure what it is out of…also the shroud isn’t all there. Will correct those issues and round up the 7 blade fan or maybe a dual elec fan setup like on my 71. I think that will take care of it.

These big blocks sure hold the heat, takes forever to cool back down.
Those temps are pretty warm I wouldnt feel comfortable with them even if they was in head. Intake temp is is usually 20 deg cooler than head temp.

I would start with a new alu radiator, dual row with 1” or 1.25” rows and a new shroud.
Cold case seems like a nice budget radiator.
 

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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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3,270 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Those temps are pretty warm I wouldnt feel comfortable with them even if they was in head. Intake temp is is usually 20 deg cooler than head temp.

I would start with a new alu radiator, dual row with 1” or 1.25” rows and a new shroud.
Cold case seems like a nice budget radiator.
You think a 2 row would be enough?
 

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You think a 2 row would be enough?
Yes if alu, a 2 row alu with 1” rows are enough are more efficient than a copper/brass oem 4 row and you can get a alu with 2 1.25” rows if you want more cooling capacity
 

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It is a known fact that if the Fan sits in the Shroud Opening with 1/2 of the Blades INside the Shroud
and 1/2 of the Blades OUTside there is a better Pulling of the Air thru the WHOLE Rad Core
and then the Flow of the Air OUT of all of the Shroud

I thought you said 1/2" inside which would put the blades mostly in and some out. Whatever, we are on the same thought.
 
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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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3,270 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I forgot I have one of the aluminum with plastic tank Autozone specials that was used with the 388 and mech fan /fan clutch. Also a set of Windstar elec fans that never ended up getting used. Hmm...may try that setup since it is here.

Current radiator is aluminum, looks like the Champion type. Not wide enough to fit the chevelle core support by a few inches.
 

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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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3,270 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Dug out the old sb radiator. One row of 1.250 tubing. Probably not enough, but at
Least can get the elec fans fitted for now.
 
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