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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

One of the last things I have to do is install my headers. I have the DynoMax for 64-72 chevelle. I am running the Edelbrock aluminum oval ports which I don't believe have a relocated port of any kind. The header seems to be hitting on the frame crossmember and needs to come forward about 1/4 inch at most. Anyone put a set into an early chassis 64-67 and had them fit easily? I have one last hope and that is maybe being able to relo a brake line that runs along the back side of the crossmember but even so the header would be rubbing...I'd like to have a bit of clearance even if it is only a little.

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Bill
65 SS
Team Member 1013
 

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I can't speak for the Dynomax BB headers, but I have installed Hooker Supercomps on a BB '65. On the Hooker's the only real clearance issue was the steering shaft, which required moderate recontouring of one of the primary tubes. I don't recall any clearance issues with a brakeline, but this car was big blocked before I worked on it and may have already had that taken care of - but I think you are wise to worry about having any hydraulic lines too close to your headers.

I know you used the word "forward", but I think you mean "backward". if you are sure that the engine motor mounts and frame mounting brackets are properly installed then I will off the following how to advice: 1) mount the offending header securely in place, then through some device (winch or various prybar methods) bend the whole collector and last ~ 1 ft of primary tubes down ward, 2) now through some method push that same section of collector and primary tube backwards to properly clear the crossmember.

Here are some ideas as how to get clever in providing the right amount of force to bend or move the four primary tubes down near the collector while whole header is mounted to the engine:
1) heat the tubes with a torch where they turn toward the collector.
2) use an ordinary winch for pulling, your buddies four by four bumper mounted winch will work if you are careful and run the cable out to have a low angle
3) a piece of wood (four by four?) long enough to fit between the curved portion of the header primary's going into the collector and a "curb" in front of your car. For this you will need some wedge device to keep the four by four from slipping down. Then once in place start up your car and just barely move it forward while bending the header as needed.

That should get you going - and welcome to the world of "easy bolt on installation", which usually means something entirely differrent than what the average person thinks. In the many years, and many cars that I have installed headers on I have had to do quite a bit of custom fitting, up to and including sectioning and rewelding.

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"Bomber" '67 El Camino, Beater comes back to life.
Was 350/TH350 14.90 @ 93mph, 360,000+ miles on car
Now 406 roller, 340rwhp, more hp coming, 3.08 gears
Street radials, left in drive, 13.20 [email protected] mph
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No way the Dynos were going to fit...I could use a 2*4 the size of a telephone pole and they were just simply bent incorrectly...I swapped them out for a set of Hooker Comp headers...even with the slightly larger tube they fit like a glove. Slid right in perfectly...the only trouble I had was I needed to do massive clearancing of the flange to clear the taller 12 point head bolts. I also drilled out the bolt holes slightly oversize to give a bit of wiggle and shazam they are on...plug clearance even looks pretty decent although I haven't screwed any in just yet. If anyone wants headers for an early BB chevelle I can strongly recommend the Hooker Comps.

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Bill
65 SS
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