[carsz]

Hello Everyone
I'm in the process on moving the battery to the trunk on my 1972 chevelle. What I'm looking for is advice or pictures of how the installation turned out. Normally I have a idea on how i want to do it but for some reason I'm at a loss. I'm a newer menber and have been reading the forum for a couple of years now. I know someone out there can give me a couple ideas.of cable routing,battery box installation etc Thanks

 

[elco68]

Never done before,but would use insulated clips and larger gauge wire like 6awg for the voltage drop at that distance.And battery incased in some box,fiberglass something like that.Don't know,but would run cable underneath car inside of frame,and bigger gauge wire than usual.Good luck

 

[Olle]

I have done it once in a Nova and once in a Camaro. I used a much larger wire than usually comes with "trunk mount kits" from Summit etc, got it from a place that sells parts for trucks and tractors. Expensive, but didn't have any problems with voltage drop. Another thing I did was to cover it with that split plastic sleeve you use on wire harnesses (is it called "Split-Loom?"), and use a good quality grommet where it went through the trunk floor. I made sure it was a snug fit, so the wire couldn't move and rub on the insulation.

You should definitely install a switch close to the battery (external switch is even mandatory on race cars, I believe). Having a hot wire under the car can get you in trouble, for example when working on it and you happen to put the jack in the wrong place. If you have a switch, there's no excuse for not disconnecting the battery

 

[elco68]

Was thinking might also want a gel battery,don't know what kind of ventilation is in trunk but would think its tighter than under hood regular might start early corrosion in trunk.Got a Optima gel in durango really like it have the gold top because of light bar and siren stuff,red would be for cars going to put in el camino when it goes out.Just a thought.

 

[Herb]

www.madelectrical.com will make you a great set of cables. I've seen their work recently. Excellent quality in materials andd workmanship.

Wouldn't hurt to call them and get a quote. They'll give you lots of free advice too. Nice folks.

 

[540cutlaSS]

I am running a 2oo cable inside the frame rail (convetible frame). Welding cable. I use the solder type lug ends.

Herb, You always have a cool web link.

 

[Herb]

That's cuz I need to use them so often. I have a mind like a steel trap, old, rusty and hard to get open.

 

[Junkyard Dawg]

I moved my batt on the Velle. I used the Summit kit. It turned out ok. I was fortunate enough to find a drain hole on the right rear side of the trunk floor to route the wire thru. Then I secured it to the inside of the frame with rubber isulated wire clamps.

 

[bowtie455]

use the heaviest gauge wire you can get.its worth it.

 

[jay]

I used heater hose to insulate my cable . The bigger the cable the better. Jel batteries are also great. As said use a disconnect switch .

 

[Jim Streib]

Mount the battery in a sealed enclosure with a vent tube to the exterior of the car (do this on any battery whether it is a standard battery or a supposidely sealed type).

Mount the battery securely to the car.

If using s standard type battery mount the battery left to right not front to rear.

Put an inline 300A ANL fuse inline on the positive battery cable and then run it through an optional cutoff switch.

Route the positive cable so that it cannot be easily pinched and shorted.

Run a negative cable from the battery (same size as the power wire) from the battery to the engine block.

Add another cable (6-8 gauge) from the battery negative terminal to the vehicles chassis for the chassis ground.

Use clean surfaces where the connections are made and try and use nuts, bolts, and lockwashers for solid rattle free connections.

Solder on any terminal ends.

Protect and seal the connection after they are made at the engine block and to the chassis with silicone (this helps to keep out water and moisture to slow down the corrosion but can later be removed if needed).

And if possible adjust the output of the alternator to where at the battery terminals you are getting 14.4 volts.

I have run 1/0 wire without problems on a 632 motor with a high torque starter, run the same size for a 454 with high compression pistons with a stock starter, and on many other wiring jobs. The only problem I ever had was with one guy going cheap. He ran the 1/0 wire for power and never addressed the ground side of it. Once I showed him how much better it cranked over with using proper grounds, he bought the rest of the wire he should have the first time and it's been fine ever since.

Jim