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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys:

I've perused the topics, only to not quite find the answer. BadChevelle may have come closest.
First, I'm working with original wiring harness in a '70 Chevelle SS 402 points car.
I'm mounting the battery in the trunk and would like to know preferred placement of cabling, preferred hookup of battery charging lead from alt.
I think the battery charging lead can connect via 8 guage with a 14 ga fusable link to the Alt output post. Checking the schematic, this seems the same as the connection of the horn relay back to the bulkhead connector where the original charging lead would tie in to the battery pos post.
The big question is if the charging lead can bolt to the solinoid battery terminal (using the main battery positive cable as a charging return feed) or if the charging cable should be ran back to the battery?

With a 2 gauge battery cabling ran inside, using a firm grommet thru firewall, should I really expect any chafing problems with wires shorting out. Cables are of Taylor trunk wiring kit. Seem quite durable. Am using compression terminal ends. Far superior to crimping IMHO.
Battery grounding would be two part, from battery neg post to trunk floor pass thru bolt, then seperate cable underneath tying into frame.
Up front, I also plan on grounding engine block to frame/chassis, removing the alternator bracket ground cable.
Also using std ground straps from engine to frame.
Any thought are welcome. Thanks

mfinger1
'70 Chevelle SS
 

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"The big question is if the charging lead can bolt to the solinoid battery terminal (using the main battery positive cable as a charging return feed"

That's the way a 72 Chevelle and others are wired. There is only one lead off the positive terminal of the battery. Alternator, horn relay, and the interior wire ties to the solenoid.
 

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A possible answer to your question is on an earlier post. do a search and put in: "low charge rate". It addresses your question on hooking the main alternator lead to the starter. I am also using a one wire and have a truck mounted battery, but I ran a 8 gauge lead all the way back to the battery. I think I may change it and run my alt lead to the starter unless others advise not to. Sorry but I cannot answer your other questions..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey guys;
Thanks for the info, I moved my battery to the trunk and everything is great. I was looking into using one of those blade fuse pigtails (the kind that's removable / replaceable) instead of a fuseable link. This would be for the battery charging lead. That's why I was wondering what the "normal" charging rate or current draw would be to the battery. I've went ahead and used a 14 ga 'link on the 10 ga lead, connecting the two with male/female quick disconnect spade connectors. Tips for sure starts:
1. Use Hi-torque starter ( I suffered long trying to use a freeby small block starter-worked but tough cranking on high compression-never again)
2. Use solenoid heat shield ( can be reg "Help" parts store item. Cheap and easy way to help heat soak)
3. Use no less than 2 ga multi-strand pos lead
4. Grind and secure ground lead to body/frame (I'm using pass through bolt in trunk floor to accomplish both- 2 ga to body, 4 ga to frame fore and aft)
5. Ground engine to frame ( currently from alt bracket to frame stud at idler arm - convienent and close by to alt)
6. Use grounding straps from eng to body (lower rear valve cover bolt.
7.!! Route / secure wiring away from heat sources ( i.e. manifold / headers)

Oh, by the way, std current draw on the battery charging lead is about 7 amps on a normal fully charged battery. You mileage may vary.

Thanks John, Peter, & KlassicKrusier


mfinger1
'70 SS 402/400TH/4.10
 
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