[Professor_SS]

well I finally gave up on the wiper motor problem and moved on to teh battery drain on the 72. Had a friend who races stock cars come by to help. Showed me some neat trouble shooting tips. Found out that my new, but out of warrenty because I've been rebuilding this car for 2 years, proform alternator is shorted out internally. Not even he could figure out this damn windshield wiper problem. I've replaced the motor three times, harnaess in the engine compartment, I guess the switch would be next, but screw it, I know when I',m beat. Why wouldn't the damn fuse blow before it cooks the inside of these damn things?

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72 Chevelle and a 70 Chevelle with a crushed roof
ACES # 4051 MCC # 448
TC # 1549 81/70 Cruisers

 

[John_Muha]

Not tring to be a wise guy Rick, but why do people get electrocuted indide a house if the house has breakers?
The fuses in a car operate more than one thing, just like your house.
The turn-on current is higher than the operating current so the fuse has to be bigger.
A small short can burn things up without blowing the fuse.
A small thought on your wipers. Do you have the wire fron battery (-) to the right inside fender?
My opinion: Not a fan of aftermaket alternators. I don't think you need to go there with your set-up.

 

[Professor_SS]

John

yes I do have good ground. I think the problem is either in the washer or park mech on the wipers or I have a switch that has a weird problem that comes and goes. I installed the last motor and put my existing washer on it and tested it out. It worked perfectly. Then the next day I installed the washer tank and hoses and when I tested it the washer hung and kept squirting. I disconnected everything and test the switch operation for the tenth time with the multi meter. Perfect. Then I reconnected the thing and tried it again. The thing worked great until I pushed the washer switch in, then the pump started working, hung, and smoked the unit. THis is the 3rd motor I put on it. The first one cost me 50 the last one the price went up to 70.

The alternator was purchased for the chrome finish. I had it on the car for a year (since I'm still in the rebuild phase) and had no problems with it until a couple of weeks ago. My battery would drain in a couple of hours, so I got a buudy to come down to help trouble shoot. We got it down to the alternator. I took it in to a local rebuild place to be tested. It was putting out 19 volts when running and has a blown diode. Geez I hate auto electrical problems. I can field strip and rebild a computer blind folded but this car stuff just escapes me for some reason.

BTW john. During the rebuild I ran a ground from the body to the frame. I ran a ground from the frame to the engine. I ran a ground from the engine through the forewall to the metal substructure of the dash, and I ran the ground from the neg terminal to the right fender. I wanted to make sure I had good grounds.

House breakers have a delay feature that allows appliances to draw higher voltages during startup. If the draw remains high the breaker kicks. Codes require a GFI system on all curc that are in high risk areas, kitchen/bath/exterior/garage. House curcuits normally will kick out before an air conditioner or refridge motor burns up, but you're right, not always.

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72 Chevelle and a 70 Chevelle with a crushed roof
ACES # 4051 MCC # 448
TC # 1549 81/70 Cruisers

[This message has been edited by Professor_SS (edited 09-16-2002).]

[This message has been edited by Professor_SS (edited 09-16-2002).]

 

[John_Muha]

Believe GFIs were required, on new construction, after 1975. May be off a couple of years.
Mytmouse (Robert) used someone to fix his chrome alternator. Think he was happy with the work. Search on his name in the main forum.

 

[cjlandry]

The alternators are easy to rebuild. I found rebuild kits locally at Advance Auto Parts of all places. I've also seen 'em for sale at farm supply centers. Apparently some of the large diesel powered farm equipment uses GM alternators.

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My Web Page (updated 06-21-02)

"Long Live Freedom!"

Chad Landry
TC Member #643
ACES Member #4556
'68 El Camino, 357, L31 Vortec heads, 700R4,
8.2 10-bolt, 3.55 gears, Auburn Pro Posi.

 

[Professor_SS]

John, do you have a wiper switch in any of your goodies from those cars you parted out that I could purchase from you. Only thing left that I can figure.

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72 Chevelle and a 70 Chevelle with a crushed roof
ACES # 4051 MCC # 448
TC # 1549 81/70 Cruisers

 

[John_Muha]

Not at the moment Rick. I sold one to Jody Sirmans about 3 months back and I'm not sure he used it. Might ask him if it's available. Does your transmission move freely?

 

[Professor_SS]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by John_Muha:
Not at the moment Rick. I sold one to Jody Sirmans about 3 months back and I'm not sure he used it. Might ask him if it's available. Does your transmission move freely?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The trans seems to move freely. I also checked the arms for bind but didn't find any. This thing really has me bugged. It is one of those things that works fine and then all hell breaks loose and then it tests out ok. It has to be shorting to ground but I'll be if I can find out how. Then it goes away. Could I be too grounded? That doesn't make sense does it, sorry. The ground wire that fits over one of the screws on the switch, what is its function?

This seems to be tied to the washer unit. Which seems to be composed of a coil that creates a magnet to hold open/closed an arm so that the cam turns the mech. Isn't that about it? So if the coil was shorted out, or broken internally, Unplugging it should not have an adverse effect on the unit as a whole should it? IF it is shorted somehow and is unplugged would it have any adverse effect on the motor trans unit?

I'm going to pull the washer off the 70, already stole the motor off it and will get the switch also I guess. Had not figured on stripping it until I was sure I couldn't locate a shell to rebuild her. I'll keep you posted.



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72 Chevelle and a 70 Chevelle with a crushed roof
ACES # 4051 MCC # 448
TC # 1549 81/70 Cruisers