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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I flushed my radiator yesterday, ran the heater a bit last night and found a ver small puddle on the driver's side floor matt this morning. Is this a leaky, bad, heater core? If so, will it only leak when I have the heater on. I have not replaced one of these before but have heard nightmares about this. I just assume to let it go if possible. Doesn't get too cold in Alabama and this is only driven once a week or less. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appr!!!

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D Smith
ALABAMA
1970 Chevelle 350


[This message has been edited by 70Chevelle 350 (edited 10-20-99).]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The puddle seems to be a rusty colored fluid. Doesn't really have a "radiator" fluid smell. Actually, the fluid feels like a very thin oil. I assumed it was old antifreeze that had a bit of rust in it. But it is definately on the drivers side. Actuallly, don't know what the fluid is. Did not wash the inside of the car. Thanks...

[This message has been edited by 70Chevelle 350 (edited 10-20-99).]
 

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Do you have air conditioning? The small holes where the air cond tubes enter the core housing on the fire wall are sealed with a type of putty tape (Eastwoods sells it) If the putty is missing or leaking water, exhaust and any other thing you have going on under your hood can enter the interior that way. You may be neater than me but when I flushed my radiator two weeks ago I got water all over the engine compartment.
 

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My heater core just went bad a few weeks ago. Smelled a really strong coolant odor and when I parked it back in the garage, it started to pool on the passenger side floor mat. Man, that sucked! Driver side leakage could be a couple of things. Did you happen to get it wet (spray engine, etc.)? Could be what GaryB said; any small opening in the firewall could do it. I'm going out on a limb here, but could it be a leaky windshield?? I've seen some leak behind the dash and pool on the floor before. Dunno. Good luck.

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Jeremy J. Bennett
72 Chevelle
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Many years ago during an Alaskan winter, my '65 El Camino started dripping a little fluid on the carpet on the passenger side. Being kind of lazy, I procrastinated until the carpet was ruined . I pulled the heater core at the auto hobby shop. If I remmeber right, it had a small crack in the solder joint where the fitting entered the core.

I bought a new replacement core but it was defective. I took the old core to a radiator shop. They soldered it up. No warranty. It still works fine.

If the core is leaking and you are running antifreeze and you turn on the defrost, it will probably mess up the inside of your windshield with an oily-like film.

On my '65 (w/o AC) the heater core is hot (coolant circulates through) all the time. Temp is controlled by the proportions of heated and ambient air mixed.

Shortly after I bought the car in 1967, I sent off mail-order for the service, overhaul, and body manuals. They cover the Chevrolet, Chevelle, and Chevy II models for 1965. If you want to keep your Chevelle going yourself, I'd recommend getting those manuals for your car. Factory-recommended procedure ain't the only way, but it should at least be considered.

[This message has been edited by JJ'65 (edited 10-20-99).]

[This message has been edited by JJ'65 (edited 10-20-99).]
 

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It could be brake fluid!! Check the area where the rod goes thru the firewall.

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Philip Valentine
Lakeside, AZ
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I'm in the process of replacing my third heater core on my '68 (400,000 miles - can't complain). What an ugly job! This time, however, I am putting some narrow strips of gasket material between the heater core and the aluminum housing it mounts to. And narrow strips of gasket material between the heater core and the clamp straps. I am hoping this adds to longevity. Also, I made a gasket out of three layers of gasket material for the inlet/outlet tubes and then used silicone seal to attach the gasket trio to the aluminum housing and the brass tubes for support of the tubes. I found that the bathtub works well to wash up the large plastic housing..... Good luck!

Don
 

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I'm with Philip on this one, it sounds very much like brake fluid. Especially the way you described it "very thin oil".

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Better Late than Never Fred
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Madness takes it's toll, please have exact change.
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Discussion Starter #10
How, and why could it be brake fluid? Is this a sign of some portion of the braking system failing? Actually, it does look like brake fluid. I just took the car and had the brakes checked on Friday? Could they have done something. More info please...thanks

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D Smith
ALABAMA
1970 Chevelle 350
 

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Anything's possible.
Anyway, it is possible that some brake fluid maybe got thru one of the firewall holes while they were checking it. Do you know if they added fluid? How do your brakes feel? Did they replace anything(booster/master/valve)??

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Better Late than Never Fred
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Madness takes it's toll, please have exact change.
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Discussion Starter #12
They checked all shoes and drums. Looked fine. They did open the master cylinder and said they added fluid. I was behind the vehicle at that time and did not see them add fluid. It seems to drive the same. I went out and looked at the firewall and could not see obvious fluid spills. But will check better tonight with more lighting. I did notice though that the master cylinder was definately low. Maybe they did spill some. ??? What type of brake fluid does she take. DOT3?

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D Smith
ALABAMA
1970 Chevelle 350
 

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If they added brake fluid and it is again low I would suggest that your master cyl is leaking out of the bore. I'm guessing you don't have power brakes.


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Philip Valentine
Lakeside, AZ
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Discussion Starter #14
No, do not have power brakes. Does this sound suspicious to you? Leaky master cylinder after inspection? I would like to get power brakes but not sure how to do this.

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D Smith
ALABAMA
1970 Chevelle 350
 

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it should say on the cover, i got a new one for the 66 (changed over to dual) and it says dot 3 only. so before you add anything besure ya get the right stuff, not sure what dot 4 does differently think something to do with heat but if it is stamped on the lid for the master it's got to be important.


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OWNER OF 66 CHEVELLE MALIBU

Check out page dedicated to resto of my chevelle. still being made.
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Discussion Starter #16
Not sure exactly where the bore area is, but could there be some portion in this area that may have worked itself loose? Or is this a "high-failure" area that cannot be fixed. Wondering if leaking from this area means that the entire master cylinder needs to be replaced...

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D Smith
ALABAMA
1970 Chevelle 350


[This message has been edited by 70Chevelle 350 (edited 10-20-99).]
 

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70Chevelle350, Lay on the drivers side floor and look up at where the pedal hooks to the M/C pushrod, there should be a rubber boot where the pushrod meets the firewall. The boot may be split, but anyway pull it back or just squeeze it and if "stuff" oozes out of it, you need a new Master cyl and yes you have to replace the whole thing and bleed it thoroughly to get all of that old fluid out. It takes DOT3 fluid.

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Leo Paugh
Maryland Chevelle Club #017
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Looks like I need a new master cylinder. It is leaking from the boot that Leo is talking about. Is this a hard task? I work on the vehicle if I can, but have never replaced the master cylinder before. Any special tools needed? Also, I know that the drum brakes came with a power option. Should I buy the booster along with the new master cylinder and any modifications needed for this installation? Thanks for all the help!!

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D Smith
ALABAMA
1970 Chevelle 350
 

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not sure what ya should ask for when getting the new one but can help ya with what it takes to get it off. The master is connected with 2 9/16 nuts and then the booster is bolted in 2 places one it at the firewall and the other is right on the booster (my 66 is like that so guessing it is the same) all the boosters i have seen come with the plate that pushes it from the fire wall so unbolt the bolts at the fire wall there is 4 again 9/16. the booster is also hooked to the brake pedle and that is only a clip holing a small rod in pop the c clamp deal off (don't know what else to call it) and push the mettle cylinder out that frees up the booster and now pull it out tring not to scratch the firewall if it is in nice comdition. When removing the brake lines remember they will be full so fluid may spill over the ground, frame ect.
sorry this is soo long but tried to explain in detail.

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OWNER OF 66 CHEVELLE MALIBU

Check out page dedicated to resto of my chevelle. still being made.
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