Team Chevelle banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
does anybody have a answer having a problem with reverse lights on my 70ss had to unplug switch mounted on steering column.when ignition is turned on lights stay on does anybody have a part# for switch on column if the switch is no good or if there is something else i can check.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
Is this a 4 speed car? Can you remove the key from the ignition with the transmission in any gear or does it have to be reverse?

If you can remove the key in any gear than your "Transmission lockout" device is missing. The lockout is a series of linkages that connect your reverse arm on the tranny to your steering column. It turns the section of the steering column immediately next to the dash about an 1/8 of a turn, which locks the key in the "ON" position. At the same time it also actuates the reverse light switch that is mounted on the lower portion of the steering column under the dash.

Reach behind your brake booster and locate an arm that is sticking out of the steering column (between column and engine). Does it have anything attatched to it? If it does, follow it down until you find the missing link.

This linkage is often scrapped if someone was adding a tach onto the steering column. The lockout would make the tach flop around. It may also have been torn out because having to put the car in reverse to remove the key can be a hassle to some.

You can buy bit and pieces or the whole damn thing from any of the supply houses. Check with our sponser.
------------------
??michael Team Chevelle Gold #77
70 Chevelle SS396 Fathom Blue/White Stripes - Canadian built

[This message has been edited by michael j (edited 07-19-99).]
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,204 Posts
Michaels post pretty much covered it. The factory 4 speeds had to be put in reverse to remove the key. After you start the car try moving the housing on the steering column, this should turn off the lights, but you'll have to move it back to remove the key.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,151 Posts
Just in case anyone is interested, I moved the location of my backup light switch to the transmission of my (excuse me, my wife's)70 4sp conv. It requires a Corvette switch, the mounting bracket, a rod and 2 clips to go on each end of the little rod. Everything except the switch is still available from Chev. The switch is available from aftermarket sources (also, you need a lever for the reverse shifter shaft that has a hole for connecting the little rod). The bracket attaches to 2 of the side cover bolts of a Muncie. An additional length of wire must be made with crimp on terminals to connect the switch wire and the wire inside the car. Now I can park the car in any gear and don't have to screw with the collar on the steering column everytime I turn off the ignition. Works great and it fits like factory because it is a Chev part.
On my son's 4sp SS clone, we installed a push-on/push-off switch under the dash for the backup lights. We picked up the switch from the electrical dept of a major hardware store, such as Lowes, drill a small hole back under the dash, and connected the wires. This gives him total control of the backup lights (sometimes he doesn't want them on when the tranny is in reverse).

------------------
 
G

·
Hurst makes a backup light switch assembly for Competition Plus shifters. It comes with a mounting bracket that bolts to the back of the shifter. It's a very easy installation. I don't have the part number available, but you can find it at their website on the downloadable catalog.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
RD,

Have you checked the wiring plug at the reverse switch? A previous owner may have jumpered it for some reason or another. That would keep the lights constantly "on".

Did you check the switch for proper operation? Remove it from the column and wiring harness. Using a multimeter with a probe on each of the switch's contacts test for continuity in each of the switch's positions. You should read infinite resistance in one position and something like .004 ohms in the other. If the reading doesn't change one way or the other than the switch is bad.

If the switch is good, did you try repositioning the switch on the column? With the car in nuetral loosen the bolts that mount the switch to the column. Gently push the switch one way or the other until the lights go out. tighten the bolts and check the operation of the lights by putting the car into reverse. Go back and forth like this until they operate correctly.

If it is not that than I would suspect that you have a short in the wiring harness somewhere. Since the lights ground directly to the bumper/frame (only one wire to them) than I would suspect that the wires that lead into/out of the switch to have broken insulation and touching. This would effectively by-pass the switch.

A short anywhere else in the system would result in no power at all to the lights (i.e. grounding to the frame, power would never reach the lights.)

I hope that this steers you in the right direction. Electrical problems always have an aire of mysticism and voodoo to them.

------------------
??michael Team Chevelle Gold #77
70 Chevelle SS396 Fathom Blue/White Stripes - Canadian built

[This message has been edited by michael j (edited 07-22-99).]
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top