Team Chevelle banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part JULY's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At what level do you think a brace is needed ? Have mine out for some upgrades getting rid of C clip elim bigger axles etc has had axle tubes welded yrs ago but will be adding Ford ends so will check housing for straightness ...... was thinking of tying axle tubes to Girdle cover not sure its needed on a 1.35-40 60' at mid 10's 3600 lb stik car

All input welcome
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
27,698 Posts
I never needed one.
Welded tubes, ford ends, Moser axles, support cover, and ARP bearing cap studs did the trick.
Never even broke a gear...
But...it was with an automatic trans
 
  • Like
Reactions: CDN SS

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,300 Posts
I would think that the control arm bushings would move more than the brace would solve. If it breaks, fix it and install the braces at that time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,691 Posts
i put em in if im building a purpose built drag car 12 bolt from scratch or hot street car. the axle tubes tend to move around and the brace helps tie everything together. allmost every one i check the tubes are out of alignment. im putting a 12 bolt in a 62 belair with a brace as we speak
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
If you are using a stock length housing, I'm not sure the back brace does anything. The wheels try to bend the housing ends forward on launch. If you have solid control arms, the ends of the rear can't really flex forward. I have seen a brace help on a ladder bar car, where the push points are at the ladder bars, and the ends of the housing tried to bend forward outboard of the ladder bar brackets.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good feeback guys Tks.
Be interesting to see if tubes are bent forward now after 10 yrs since welded and good conttol arms and bushings
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
27,698 Posts
Good point...I was running solid aluminum control arms with Heim joint ends...upper and lower along with a HR anti rollbar.
Along with tubular frame "4 speed" braces
 
  • Like
Reactions: CDN SS

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,110 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It will be in a jig I will make note which way if bent
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,818 Posts
High RPM launches with stick shift will cause the outer tubes to flex significantly, even with four-link. Chrome moly bar with Heim ends, from the outboard ends of the tubes to girdle are a viable fix for this inherent flex and movement.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CDN SS

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,217 Posts
I've been running an LPW cover for a long time. I'm adding the back brace as well as threading/bolting the tubes to the center section in addition to welding, adding Mark Williams billet caps to both sides and new pro gears.

I'll post pictures when done.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CDN SS

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,818 Posts
I've been running an LPW cover for a long time. I'm adding the back brace as well as threading/bolting the tubes to the center section in addition to welding, adding Mark Williams billet caps to both sides and new pro gears.

Billet caps on both sides and Pro Gears are a good idea for any high RPM stick-shift drag race application.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top