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Discussion Starter #1
Just had the battery test and its good.The car will start fine and charge normal and the next time you go to start it it won't start.Like the battery is dead.Battery cable gets real hot.Try to jump it it still won't start but wait awhile it will start on its own like nothing ever was wrong.When it acts like this I noticed the volt gauge does not move but when the car is starting ok the gauge goes right up to 14 volts.Where to look me not sure.At 1st I thought it was the starter but don't think that would have anything to do with the volts??It must be somewhere I have'nt been yet because everthing you could think of has been checked over and over again.
Thanks,Driver
 

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Can you get it to spin the starter by jumping the large solenoid/starter terminal (B+) to the solenoid "S" terminal with the purple wire?
A screwdriver works if you are careful.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes,thats how I finally got it to start at the race track when the problem started but later found the wire to be broken.Fixed that and seemed to work ok but the very next week it did the same thing.But yes to your question.The starter was just replaced not long ago for the 2nd time.
 

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Sounds to me like you might need larger battery cables.
 

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Where's the voltmeter connected to? Someplace on the fuseblock?

When you say that you aren't seeing the 14 volts, what key position are you in? Are you still in the RUN position or does this occur as you turn to START? I can understand why it will occur in START but should always be up to 12(+) volts in RUN.

Is the car an automatic or a four speed? You probably mentioned it before but I can't recall everyone's car.

If the screwdriver on the solenoid trick still works everytime, it doesn't sound like starter. We'll have to look at other things.
 

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if the starter cranks when you short the b+ to the s terminal while your problem is occuring that does rule out the starter,battery and the cables.If you can get it to act up check the voltage to the s terminal in the crank position, it should be battery voltage..if not perhaps you have a bad nuetral safety switch or a poor connection in that curcuit..as the wires warm up the resistance also goes up..which may explain why it works after cooling off a bit it could also be your ignition swicth or connection there
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Car is automatic. The neutral safety switch is not that old. Put a new shifter in a few months ago which came with a new neutral safety switch. The volts I'm talking about is after I get it started. But, the very next time It starts the volts goes up to 14. When it is acting up like this and I get it running the volt gauge doesn't move. When it is starting normal on its own the volt gauge goes up to 14. That's about all I can think of. About the ignition, I had a toggle switch that runs to the MSD and the power source coming off the battery, I did this a year ago thinking the ignition switch was bad. But I still use the ignition key to start the car. When it is acting up the battery cable is hot and the starter gets hot. {The cable going to the starter}
 

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Where did you wire the volt gauge into? I'm assuming that it's an aftermarket gage.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Into the fuse box.Just went out and checked where.It was on the ign which it works off the key.Tried it on where it say's battery it stays on all the time unless you push in the kill switch.Where should it be?
 

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IGN on the fuse block is a good spot. You are right, you don't want it on all the time. It will run down the battery when the car is off.

When your car is acting up does the gage always read 12 volts (or higher) when the key switch is in the RUN position?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
When it's acting up with the key on it reads less than 12 volts.Anywhere between 10 and 12 volts.Get it started it stays at 12 but will not move up at all.Ten mins later after starting the car again it goes right up to 14 volts.Crazy!!
 

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Have been giving it some thought. The 10 minute jumping up to 14 volts sounds like there is a problem in the charging circuit. Maybe a regulator hanging up. However, the car should start if the battery is in good shape.
When you say the meter reads 10 to 12 volts, is it sometimes lower when the car is acting up? Is this with the key in the ON or RUN position? Maybe you answered this already but I don't remember everything. Does it start with a screwdriver shorting "S" to the large battery cable when it is acting up? I'm trying to rule out the solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes,with the car running it stays at 12 volts but won't move at all when giving it some rpms.Turn on the electric fan and water pump it's just right below 12 volts(this is when it's acting up.
Shut the car off and the next time you start it the volts go right up to 14 and alls well.You can be at the track and car is starting and running well the next thing you know out of the blue it won't start and if you keep trying to start it the cables are hot.Get under the car bump the starter and it will start but the volts won't go past 12.Next time straight to 14 volts.The positive and the ground cable gets hot.The car is grounded well.One ground running to the cage,a number 1 cable ran from the battery to the front frame and many ran from the block to the fire wall.I tried to get it to act up today and it wouldn't, even tho I ran evrything with-out the car running.
 

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"One ground running to the cage,a number 1 cable ran from the battery to the front frame and many ran from the block to the fire wall."
Battery in the rear? What's running between the battery negative (-) and the block?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Battery is in the trunk. Ground running off the battery onto a welded stud on the rollcage next to the battery. I thought maybe I had a ground problem at one time, so I ran a #1 cable from the battery to the firewall. Earlier I said I ran it to the block, but I was mistaken. There's a large strap running from the engine block to the frame and a smaller one running from the engine block to the firewall. That's about it. Thanks.
 

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I'd move the ground cable from the firewall to the block. Either that or run another cable from where it's connected on the firewall over to the block. I'm not a fan of using the frame to carry the current that the starter needs. See if that helps.
 
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