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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am working on making all my wiring in the engine bay and then some fuel line hoses nice and pretty. I have the wires loomed, but where they need to run, along the firewall I am curious do most people just run a loop hanger and then a self tapping screw through the firewall? Is that secure, and won't back out due to vibration?

Also I have a few hoses that are uncomfortably close to my headers. Again I was thinking about running one of those hose hanger loops (basically a open loop with holes on the ends for mounting) and then mount them up hugging the floor of the car. However, how do you guys typically mount hose hangers on the floor of the car. Obviously, the self tapper is going to go through the floor. In my case I have the interior and carpet out of the car so if I need to do something on the top end it would be ok for me.

I know this is such a basic question, but I can not seem to find information on the subject. I really appreciate the help, this is my first build, and just trying to finish it up. Thanks guys
 

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Mike, it may seem basic, however, I'm sure it causes many just as much grief as it is causing you. So many options, some better than others, or at least you may think. I'm currently in the same boat as you, winding down on a complete build of my '66 and currently wiring the thing. I have a brand new AAW harness and have added FAST XFI 2.0 EFI, their trans controller, and digital ignition and coil. And to make it even more of a problem for myself I smoothed the firewall so I'm trying to be as descret as possible when it comes to attaching things to it... I also have some components that need to keep separated, noise issue with signal and the such...

I'm running a multipoint EFI system so I have a fuel supply line that converts to 2 separate lines via a fuel block right before the fuel rails and a return line. So what I did was utilize the available bolt holes on the back side of my heads and made a bracket and a bulkhead that I attached to the head that the lines attach to. Also, with this mounting point it keeps the fuel lines from drooping down to close to my headers yet allows movement as needed. The nice thing about it is the added benefit that if I ever need to pull the engine I can simply disconnect 1 supply line and 1 return line at that bulkhead and the rest of the lines stay with the engine. Also, i doing basically the same with a couple of the other holes to manage wires.

Another thing I'm currently considering is 'wire run' material similar to what you see in office buildings to run computer lines and such. I'm thinking that I could mount it low on the firewall right below the point where is breaks for the toe panels of your floor board and use either double back tape or short self tappers to secure it. I'd paint it prior to installantion and think that it may become also invisible at first glance...

That will help you with a few, possibly. If I have a brainstrom later I'll be sure to give you a heads up... good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mike, it may seem basic, however, I'm sure it causes many just as much grief as it is causing you. So many options, some better than others, or at least you may think. I'm currently in the same boat as you, winding down on a complete build of my '66 and currently wiring the thing. I have a brand new AAW harness and have added FAST XFI 2.0 EFI, their trans controller, and digital ignition and coil. And to make it even more of a problem for myself I smoothed the firewall so I'm trying to be as descret as possible when it comes to attaching things to it... I also have some components that need to keep separated, noise issue with signal and the such...

I'm running a multipoint EFI system so I have a fuel supply line that converts to 2 separate lines via a fuel block right before the fuel rails and a return line. So what I did was utilize the available bolt holes on the back side of my heads and made a bracket and a bulkhead that I attached to the head that the lines attach to. Also, with this mounting point it keeps the fuel lines from drooping down to close to my headers yet allows movement as needed. The nice thing about it is the added benefit that if I ever need to pull the engine I can simply disconnect 1 supply line and 1 return line at that bulkhead and the rest of the lines stay with the engine. Also, i doing basically the same with a couple of the other holes to manage wires.

Another thing I'm currently considering is 'wire run' material similar to what you see in office buildings to run computer lines and such. I'm thinking that I could mount it low on the firewall right below the point where is breaks for the toe panels of your floor board and use either double back tape or short self tappers to secure it. I'd paint it prior to installantion and think that it may become also invisible at first glance...

That will help you with a few, possibly. If I have a brainstrom later I'll be sure to give you a heads up... good luck!
Thanks for the help. Do you have any pictures? I would love to see your hangers and your engine bay.
 

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No problem, happy to try and offer some assistance. However, I don't have any detail photos, though I should have, but I'll take some tomorrow when I'm back at the shop. Hopefully they'll turn out, I have a whole lot of black going on, lol. My fuel lines are black braided with black and red AN fittings and it's pretty tight back there but I'll try to take some good ones for you. If they don't turn out good enough I do have drawings of what I did that I can clean up a bit and post.

One thing that I did when I attached this to the head was I spaced it out from the head about a 1/2" so that the bracket wouldn't have direct contact with the head. My thinking was that it may transfer less heat my fuel lines. So my bracket bolts to the head, using 2 bolt holes for stability, and the fuel lines bolt to the bracket. It may or may not help but it did look nice, lol.

I added one pic of the engine and firewall that I did have and if you look real close at the top of the steering shaft you can see one the red part of the fuel line fitting and at the back of the head, right above the fitting you can see part of the prototype I originally made. I didn't like that you could see part of the bracket so I made a new one that tucks in completely behind the head. But I do have plenty of clearance to the headers. I try to get you some details photos tomorrow though...
 

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Mike, thanks for the compliment and I'm sure that your build will be equally as impressive!

Sorry it took so long to get back. Like I thought, with as little space as I have behind the engine and with all of the black it's virtually impossible to get a picture that really shows much of anything. At any rate, I'm throwing in the best of the worse pictures, lol, it's is the plywood version that I originally made as proto-type to see if it would fit and do what I wanted. This picture is taken straight over the top of the engine before I had the hood and fenders back on the car. What you can see though, is that by spacing it from the head it allowed me to not only insulate from transferring heat, hopefully, but also makes it possible to bolt the fuel block to the head without issue.

I'm looking for a good picture, or drawing, of a big block head and if you're still interested I'll transfer the bracket drawing that I have in CAD to it so you can get an idea of orientation, size, etc. Just let me know!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mike, thanks for the compliment and I'm sure that your build will be equally as impressive!

Sorry it took so long to get back. Like I thought, with as little space as I have behind the engine and with all of the black it's virtually impossible to get a picture that really shows much of anything. At any rate, I'm throwing in the best of the worse pictures, lol, it's is the plywood version that I originally made as proto-type to see if it would fit and do what I wanted. This picture is taken straight over the top of the engine before I had the hood and fenders back on the car. What you can see though, is that by spacing it from the head it allowed me to not only insulate from transferring heat, hopefully, but also makes it possible to bolt the fuel block to the head without issue.

I'm looking for a good picture, or drawing, of a big block head and if you're still interested I'll transfer the bracket drawing that I have in CAD to it so you can get an idea of orientation, size, etc. Just let me know!
Thanks man, I love your steering shaft setup to you can clear those big headers. That was one issue I ran into on my build. I kept my stock steering shaft with rag joint, and had to finally settle on some headers from Flow Master.
 

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I'm running the Unisteer rack and pinion. The shaft was a bit of a pain to get phased just right to make it rotate smoothly but I think I'm going to be real happy with it. Looks a lot better than the old stock arrangement. Also, I'm running the hydra boost brake booster so I have to plumb from the power steering pump to the booster to the rack then the reservoir and back, so I'm looking for a black braided line solution for that...
 

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the best part of all is that I bought the rack separately from the shaft kit on Ebay through Summit and saved something like $300 on the deal. I had added the rack to my 'watch list' on Ebay and I got an email one day from them with the just the rack by itself priced crazy cheap so I bought it. I've found other deals that way too on Ebay...
 
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