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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wondering if anybody knows of a way to use steel braided fuel line on my BB Tripower It seems to be fine for a while then the leaks come back I would like to try Braided hoses but had no luck figuring out what fittings to get whith my local speed shop THANKS MIKE
 

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Mike, I'm sharing the leak problem. First mu homemade lines, then my rear carb, what a PITA. Anyway, I had Classic Tube make up some lines. I cant tell if they'll be forever leak free.
Sorry to ramble , I know nothing about braided fittings.Guess I'd start with 3 Holley #26-73s for the carbs. These will go to #6 lines. You can either go into a 1X3 fuel block, or consider a fuel log. Frankly Mike, I think the Ford method of using a fuel log and then small rubber hoses to connect to the carb is THE way to go. I wont because of orignality, but thats the ticket...

So far all I can say s that RIP is really good ( no persceptible transition to secondaries), but I too have been plauged with leaks the most recent my rear carb. Plus setting idle with BOTH idle screws AND the mechanical linkage is, well, tricky.

Schurkey put together one sweet ass trips setup as well. Realy nice.

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Gene Chaas
Gold Member 62/ACES 3112
67 SS 427
"Be big. Be a builder."



[This message has been edited by 427L88 (edited 04-29-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ramble all you want I love the input . Ya mine seemed like I finally got it leak free the end of last season . Now this year it starts again . I got the original looking lines from Chicago Corvette . I assume they are probably made by classic tube . Anyway the fuel inlet gaskets seem to be the troubled spots . Ever try tightening these with it all together what a [email protected]*^ . Let me know when you get yours line and how it works . My feelings on it are the short lines when tightened almost put stress on the bowl fittings to loosin like a preload through the line . But they worked from the factory so I must be doin something wrong . I would like to see Schurkeys setup as well . Someone might be able to tell me what I am doing wrong .

[This message has been edited by BULKSS (edited 04-29-2001).]
 

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I went through this a few years ago and with the help of an instrumentation tech (master tubing bender) built all new lines that have not leaked to date. The trick appears to be a combination of EXTREMELY clean cuts in the tubing and very precise flares. Even the slightest distortion would cause a leak. Also, we tightend the fittings once cold then once hot to ensure they compressed properly. Also, we had to replace the carb fittings on 2 as they were distorted from previous over tightening.
The last item was the steel in the lines. Stailnless was impossible to bend but it is also so hard that a proper seal is near impossible. My friend told me that if tyou want to use stainless then use aluminum type carb fittings a ssomething has to give to seal. He used some thin wall 3/8" steel tubing that was great. I don't know the difference between thin wall and regular but I have never had a leak since this was all done
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Good luck.

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I don't know anything about braided fittings but I had leak trouble with the repro dual inlet fuel line on my 4150 Holley. Someone on this site gave me the fix. Get some teflon thread sealant and put some on the BACKSIDE of the tube flare and some on the threads of the flare nut. Sealed it right up for me.

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Levon, no doubt on the stainless. At Classic they asked me if I wanted SS and I said HELL NO! They made up a shorty for me last year, right off the pump to a rubber line and I literally thought I was going to bust the boss OFF THE PUMP trying to seat that sucker. Cant imagine it on more delicate carbs. Just use emory cloth to polish and then clear ( enigne) to protect. looks OK.

Mike I found that hte spacing of the lines must be perfect so as not to place stress on the bowls. My rear line came tweaked over, but as I measured it, I found the spacing was exact, 5.375" front/center, 4.75" front/rear. So when I put it back togehter I ensure the flares are centerd in their repsective bores and I seat them first.

Oh, I finally realized why I cant get my trips to idle decent. The damn butterflys all have small holes in them. I never added 2 + 2. Damn. I'm going to call Holley custom ship and asken them WAHT THE EFF I'm supposed to do if I want to idle,on center only. Dayum! JBweld, new throttle plates, what.

BUT WOT is HUGE! I love it. Better than my very well tuned 850 and mid throttle is nicer. Only needed #31 squirters across all 3 crbs.

[This message has been edited by 427L88 (edited 04-29-2001).]

[This message has been edited by 427L88 (edited 04-29-2001).]
 

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Yep, I too have had fuel leaks at the double-flared connections. Finally gave up and used thread sealer as mentioned above. My fuel log with branches to the carbs still doesn't juice my lizard, so I'll have to figure out something else...probably with compression fittings instead of double flared!

I obtained the tri-power when the previous owner BURNT UP HIS CAR because the rubber fuel hose ruptured, and his electric fuel pump continued to pour gasoline on the flaming mess. Had to replace one carb, and the vacuum pod for another. Sad when carbs and distributors melt. Therefore: NO RUBBER UNDER PRESSURE except for short sections of Aeroquip hose rated for 250+psi and gasoline use! One section from output of pump, to hardline in the frame rail, another from framerail to engine.

Moral: Be careful of the "steel braided" hose you use. Some is steel braid over rubber, and that's what blew on my set-up (about twenty years ago-I hope they've improved it since then!) "REAL" steel braid hose is SS braid over a teflon (not rubber) liner, Aeroquip 2807 is a good example of the teflon type. This stuff won't go bad, handles tons of pressure, but kinks easily. It will sooner or later split at the kink. Pay attention to minimum bend radius with the teflon stuff!

Somebody makes Holley fuel inlet-to-dash 6 hose size adaptors, and you could just screw the hoses onto the adaptors at the carb inlet. In my case, with the No-Par style fuel bowls, the fuel inlet is on the right side, and there is severe clearance problems between the fuel inlet on the center carb and the front carb-to-manifold bolt.

[This message has been edited by Schurkey (edited 04-29-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Gene I found that if I get the bowl fitting in first then the double flare to carb It seems alright. I did the teflon tape trick that cured the double flare leaks . My biggest problem has been the Bowl fitting to bowl leaking. Yesterday I tightened the fitting and I had to tighten it more that I liked.I have no leaks now lets see if it lasts. By the way the car is coming together I got the exhaust on yesterday you guys are right wide open throttle is wild with this setup Thanks MIKE

[This message has been edited by BULKSS (edited 04-30-2001).]
 

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I don't think it would be a completely different animal, but if it helps, I just replumbed my single 4 barrel yesterday with Keith Black fittings and braided hose.....one line out of each side of the regulator, feeding each bowl.

I used #6 AN fitting in each bowl, then swivel AN fittings off there, into #6 braided, into swivel, into#6 into regulator.

They are a pain in the ass to put together, but NO LEAKS!

If I had a tri-power, I would be inclined to get a 3 port regulator and plumb each carburator separately, this way they are all being properly fed.
 
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