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Me being an old Mopar guy, we used to get concerned when making over 700 HP in our RB blocks mainly due to wall thickness. So filling the block was one reason to help cure this problem. Seeing that I am fairly new to BBC engine, how forgiving and how much can they take before you would fill them up?


 

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I was told when you go over +100 over bore. was never given a HP figure would like to know this.
 

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The one stock block I filled was a .100 over 427. But the engine before that one was also .100 over and not filled and it ran just as well.
 

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Mine is .100 over and street driven occasionally. However when it was freshened it developed a pinhole at the bottom of #3 so it was sleeved, all is good to this point.
 

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Usually .100" over, usually .060" over on small blocks. We used to use it on small block small journal .030" over engines but a Dart or GM Bow Tie block has very thick cylinder walls and do not need filling

The only filler i have ever had in any of my blocks were Hardblok, Some people are using Epoxy but there seems to be more downs with epoxy than Hardblok

I like to see a little more piston to wall clearance with a filled block BUT back then we didnt have coated piston skirts so i would say without coated piston skirts run .0015"-.002" extra clearance. we usually end up about .007" on the small block 4.030"-4.060" stuff with filled blocks, I would ASSUME with coated skirts you could keep the clearance .0055"-.006" but this would have to be a trial and error here as i have never had a coated skirt in an engine now days with filled waterjackets, with out block filler yes

If a street car i wouldnt fill the waterjackets at all, if you make that much HP on the street you need a Dart block so you have good cooling

Another thing to look at is how is the weight gonna effect you on the nose? Maybe Mike or Billk will chime in also as i myself have never filled a block myself, i have had it done but not myself, Maybe one of those guys could give good instructions here?
 
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