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Discussion Starter #381
Maybe later rather than sooner.

I was asked about the fan shroud and fan blade.
It has the Factory Hi-Po 7-blade fan with the
curved blade tips. So it shouldn't need to be 1/2-out
because of the tips.

Then we have the alternator and the new plug in
which is how it used to be before rico & son, hack
changed it to the incorrect part.

Here's the pics of battery, the side posts and the Blue Sea ground buss.
It's all the way to the right against the inner wall of the pass side fender.

Finally I have a pic of the 50 amp voltage regulator.

Until I have another update, that's all.

-- Spike

On the lighter side is our recent trip to the wildlife park.
I informed my little girl that she needed to hold the feel in
a FLAT hand. Being a rambunctious 7-year old she didn't
feel she needed to listen to me. We see the result.

To view, removed the "dotpdf" at the end,
then replace the _ with a period before the mov
and it should work.

Enjoy
 

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Isn't your alternator already internally regulated?

If so, why the 50 amp external regulator?
 
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Discussion Starter #383
Hi Pugsy,

The external regulator was to be used to increase the voltage of the ignition system.
The theory being the higher the voltage the greater the current of the ignation.

Recall: V = I * R

Where:
V = Voltage
I = Current (Amps)
R = Resistance

To keep things simple we'll make R of the system = 2 ohms.

How much current for a 12V system?

V/R = I
12V/2r= 6 Amps

So for illustrative purposes see the following:

We can run this system at 16 Volts,
how many amps is running through the ignition?

16V/2r = 8 Amps

With a rock solid system, this should be do able.

Recall that current flows in the opposite direction of voltage.
Recall that I run a welding cable ground connection to the
base of each head through a Y cable, and each leg of the y
is of equal length. I want the maximum possible spark energy
flowing to each spark plug giving big spark to ignite the air fuel mixture.
I want each head to be at the same ground potential.

If you look at some of the earlier pics of the engine compartment,
you'll see the heavy ground wire running from the battery bus, along
the outside of the engine compartment to the fire wall where the
Y connection is. I mounted it on one existing hole, I think I drilled
one additional hole to mount it.

Thanks for asking that Pugsy, that just reminded me that I need
to removed and clean up the each of the grounds that rico & son HACKs
made. DeoxitD5, Isopropanol (99.99%) along with some conduction enhancement
stuff. You can find this stuff at your local electrical supply place.

DeoxitD5: LINK
Isopropanol: LINK
Search around for the lowest price.
You don't want rubbing alcohol because it has
other stuff in it (contaminants for electrical use).

Then I need to isolate the coil to cap wire, which I placed next to the
lower voltage wires to keep it out of the way. I just need to let it hang
loose and be happy by it self.

Somewhere I have some large copper bolts that should fit the AFR heads
which would stop some of the electrolysis going on. I'd strap the grounds
using these instead of the treated steel bolts.

That's the plan anyway will have to wait while it's cooler to do this stuff.

-- Spike
 

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Spike Im not sure what 1/2" fuel line you're buying but SS braided line is fairly easy to run, I bought an AED 1000 carb from another member and he threw in a 1/2" SS braided line, hes local to me but I have 3/8ths line so Im not sure which Im using yet and would offer it to you but Im sure you need it asap, anyway its an option
 

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Discussion Starter #385
Spike Im not sure what 1/2" fuel line you're buying but SS braided line is fairly easy to run, I bought an AED 1000 carb from another member and he threw in a 1/2" SS braided line, hes local to me but I have 3/8ths line so Im not sure which Im using yet and would offer it to you but Im sure you need it asap, anyway its an option

Hi Rick, send you a PM. Thank you for the thoughts. I'm in no rush, so take your time and
get your vehicle running they way you would like.


-- Spike
 

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Discussion Starter #386 (Edited)
Early update.

Started her up and ran her for a while letting her get nice and hot.
And then all of a sudden the effing Chevelle just purrrred.

No lifter noise. Went around back and listened and smelled the exhaust,
wasn't bad at all. These are the two things I did:

First, I unbundled the coil wire to dizzy. It was running right next to
the other ignition and key-on wires etc. I was concerned it was inducing
a charge or something into those other wires. It must have been.
Before I started her up, I clipped off the wire tie holding the coil wire up against
the other bundled wires along the firewall. I let the coil wire hang a bit,
now it crosses the same bundled as before, but at 90 degrees to them, that is perpendicular.
Holy Cow, like I said, this engine just purrred.
snippage...but usually you would start with trying to get maximum separation from the coil and plug wires and any other wires.
What Tj said, exactly.
Second, the other thing was opening up the carb a little bit, increasing the idle speed
screw about 1/2 to 3/4 turns. There was no more sucking sound like a baby who can't
get enough air. Those slight partial turns was choking it off. Now, how do I know besides not getting
the Scheisse rich exhaust smell that burns your throat?
At idle the O2 sensor see's fresh air from valve overlap, giving a false lean reading. Also, there's pulsing in the exhaust at idle, more fresh air hitting the sensor. Ignore the AFR at idle, adjust to lean best idle plus a little to the rich side.

I guess I've fallen from favor, nobody reading my stuff anymore? I've been posting this stuff about fake lean AFRs at at idle for at least 7 years now.
TOM, I found what you've been saying for the last seven years, but my o2 sensor readings
confirm that my idle has leaned out. I have one on each collector. I don't read
the o2 sensor with a Lamda display. I've never been keen on that. I read the voltage
directly with a fluke multi meter. For me, it works just fine.

Last idle measurement 0.127V or 127 mV. Smelly Rich
This idle measurement 0.865V or 865 mV. Not smelly, but good exhaust odor.

This was just 1/2 to 3/4 turn of the idle speed screw got it cleaned up.

Y'all that have tuned your engines know what I'm describing.

So how was the timing? The 16* BTDC initial was very stable, less than
.25* degree variation as displayed by my sears standard timing light.

Then I plugged in my Sears dial back timing light...
Sorry all this hasn't worked out for you, (snippage)
I will remain quietly back here at headquarters, mission terminated.
(ATTN: Dave Ray from mission terminated)
At the pre or zero setting it showed 16* BTDC but had more variation maybe 1.5*.
And, when I dialed in pre-16* so the pointer on the ATI balancer tried to
display Zero*BTDC, it was bouncing all over the place around the Zero that is.

I would say the dial back has more variation than non dial back.
Also if the timing mechanism used electrolytic capacitors, which
haven't been used in 30 or 40 years, yes that might just cause
the variation. The dial back might be more accurate with newer
timing components...The question is will they fit inside the light?

I haven't looked but if someone wants to investigate and post
a pic or two of the insides and the timing circuit, etc I'll be happy
to comment. I would guess ceramic caps, carbon comp resistors
and an old dried up potentiometer (the thing you turn).

I've got pics but the lab said they couldn't process them until
Monday--go figure.

In case you are wondering, the o2 is a Bosch #12014 made in U.S.A.
It is a lowly one wire sensor that has to be warmed up by exhaust heat.
They have a lifetime warranty. I keep swapping them out until I find
a matching pair...it takes longer then you think.

As I finished up everything and started putting away my stuff,
I noticed this red blob under the pass side engine block under the head.
WTF - Then I realized it was the red starter cable to the battery.

Thinking it melted to the header right?

NO - it melted to the aluminum head!

I'm surprised the damn thing didn't short out and catch on fire,
it could have arched to the aluminum then started a thermite reaction
where the aluminum starts to burn and once it does....
...Just ask anyone who's served and played around with thermite grenades.
Oh the damage done!

I quickly disconnected all the positive cabling.

-- Spike
 

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Discussion Starter #387 (Edited)
Got the photos for yesterday.
Some good stuff and some not so good stuff.

You make the call.

NOTE: Corrections to the idle measurement of AFR in Volts post #386
Early update.
Last idle measurement 0.127V or 127 mV. Smelly Rich
This idle measurement 0.865V or 865 mV. Not smelly, but good exhaust odor.
This idle measurement should have said:
0.65xV or 650 mV. Not smelly.

-- Spike
 

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Discussion Starter #390
I wanted to do a sound spectrum of the Chevelle while
it was running well. At least here it doesn't show any
higher frequencies that might show up as pinging.

Pinging should show up in this spectrum because it is
audible. It should stand out above the other frequencies.

Note the dip in the pass side spectrum from about 2.5k to 4.5k Hz.
I don't know if mic placement had anything to do with that or
it was resting on the radiator support.

The sound spectrum was captured on iStroboSoft from peterson strobe tuners.

Step further down the road is buy 2 knock sensors and fit them to each side.
Where is best location? on the block, heads, or collectors?

Why this might be important?

When I was consulting to GM in Detriot one of the things they were investigating and
starting to implement was Artificial Intelligence/Expert Systems that would analyze sound.
By analyzing the sounds, and collecting them in a large database, this would help them
identify and diagnose issues before they became expensive failures.

-- Spike
 

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Boldly procrastrinating
66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
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the knock sensors don't produce a voltage, it's a radio frequency. I for get what the frequency is, but you can duplicate it by tapping on the block or head with a hammer. That used to be a regular diagnostic procedure in the GM manuals. point a timing light at the timing mark, tap the block with a hammer. If the system was working it would retard the timing long enough to see it with the light.
 
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Discussion Starter #392
Hi Tom,

At first I was going to mention that we can't hear in the Radio Frequency (RF) range.
But then who am I to correct NASA? LINK

They show the Radio Spectrum including 1kHz, while the lower graph shows 3kHz. wikipedia just calls it
radio waves even if we can hear it or feel it. LINK
It depends on source....

Tap with a hammer and see what it is.

-- Spike
 

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Discussion Starter #393 (Edited)
Still trying to ID everything in the Engine/build.
It should be like this, but it is.

While I'm waiting to clean up and tape up the
starter wire, I've found some of the original pics.

One is of the rocker arms and springs.
The other is AFRs info on their springs.

Seems like quite a bit for the crane HR cam.
I wonder why their solid roller springs,
and with 2.3" intakes, that is a lot of weight
to control and a lot of pressure.

But who am I to judge, right?
A bit more then the Crane cam.
I'll have to see the spec it for
the larger AFR heads. End of the roval limit?

So I should be good to about 7000 with
the large stainless valves. I've got my limiter
set to a conservative 6300. If and when I need
more, I can adjust it.

Here is the Crane 99896 Spring recommendation
and their specs, thanks go out to crane and summit: LINK

If I take the car to a shop, I'll whoosify it at 3000 rpm
and put the anti-tamper stuff over the pots.

Shown also is exhaust port and
intake port match, not to shabby.

Of course my LED camera died that was
supposed to look down the intake throats.
Anyone have a smaller bore scope rig?
It would be kind of nice to actually
see the ports. It's not too big with
.670 intake and .630 exhaust.

Should be able to check it out and see what's been done.

I just need to keep on plugging away at this baby.
It needs nice little run around town to get dialed in.

For you engine building folks, these aren't anything too fancy,
it's intended for the regular guy or gal who's just following along.

Pics, references, how-to's, examples and non-examples shown
all help our Team Chevelle Brothers.

-- Spike
 

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Discussion Starter #394 (Edited)
If your wondering why I'm not driving it around town yet,
it's because initially I was holding off to put in the larger gas tank.

But as it turns out, the engine, et al. (fancy lawering abbreviation for "and other stuff")
probably wasn't really ready to run with out some BS happening somewhere.
So, it's better off to stay at home.

Then, I'll clean out the current gas tank which should be just about
empty, clean the lines, blow them out, blow again with ether and
hook them up again for around the block, close in town driving
until nothing falls off or comes undone.

Last thing I need it to be stuck in rush hour, 100* stranded.
Yes, I looked into insurance companies for break downs, now
your screwed, they insist they'll only tow to the closest service place.
NOT your home.

-- Spike

NOTE: The heads are the AFR 290cc heads that were the prototype for the 300cc heads,
at least that is what I was told. So the 300cc is the last roval head. I couldn't update
the post before this to make the correction.

Here is the link to the valves: LINK
185 grams

The spring doesn't care if it's a hydraulic- or a solid- roller cam,
it just needs to get the job done.
 

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Spike, as discussed offline, that's a big heavy valve. You're going to need a lot of spring to run it 7K. I'd run a 6500 RPM limiter until after you win the lottery and install a Ti version. The AFR 2.300 Ti valve is pushing $200 per so it's kind of a big bite.

What the peak HP RPM?
 

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Discussion Starter #396 (Edited)
Hi Tom,

I've got the limiter set for 6300.
I figured that would be a good safe number.
More than the "standard" 5200 - 5500 rpm.

Heck the whole point of high performance
street/strip engine, driveline, is go fast!

Let's see that is $200 x 8 = 1,600.
Funny DelWest doen't list the 2.3 for the
Mark IV, I wonder if they had (still have)
a deal with AFR for them?

$22.00 - AFR 7626 - BBC 11/32" Intake Valve 2.300 x 5.500 OAL Steel
$37.37 - Ferrea F1224P BBC 11/32, ? Intake Hollow Stem 2.3" x 5.525 12 Degree sonny Brodix
$161.01 Ferrea F1684 Ti BBD 11/32, Intake Valve 2.3 x 5.525, 12 degree.

Here they are: See Attached


Then the sodium filled exhaust
valves, there was a local guy selling
his used stock for $20.00 each in 1.88.

And then I'd run into the problem of finding the
right guy to do the work properly, so I don't
get taken up the back side.

Maybe Mike Lewis or local Reher-Morrison ?

Strange that all these Chevelle parts cause
cancer and reproductive harm. The latter being
that some guys would rather work on their Chevelle.

Is that possible? :confused:
-- Spike


NOTE: 11/32 = 0.343750, so the 0.3412 is on the thin side for the DelWest.
But what's 0.00255 between friends, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #397 (Edited)
Not enought to do on Friday afternoon.

So I found these, and will save a few $100 bucks.

Okay I need ot find Ti Sodium filled, or maybe
the Ti doesn't need the Sodium.

I do want the CrN treatment on the valves though.
Longevity.

Then, once I get the light valves, got to go with
lighter springs, retainers, etc....

Soon to be 8000 RPM BBC!

Anyone got lottery Tickets?
Sell me a winner and I'll buy
you and engine too.

-- Spike


I just found out I can get them for about $30 each from ebay and
shipped from the U.S.A. also, at least the ad says that.
 

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Too many pages to check.
What exactly do you have for an engine?:surprise:
 
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Spike are you building a money/trophey winning engine? I went a little over board myself on parts that I really didnt need for my build but if it's a drag only car I understand but for a street/strip car maybe a little much? pls dont take this wrong 😀
 

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Discussion Starter #400
Sorry gentlemen,

From Tech Talk #72 or #75 (nope, it's #76) Rehr-Morrison web site, NO-LINK, YES LINK
they discuss how nice the Ti valves are when used in BBCs.
Even Chevrolet used them in some of their street engines.

They say this:
"Here are the numbers: A typical 2.300-inch diameter steel intake valve with an 11/32-inch stem for a conventional big-block Chevrolet weighs 142 grams. A titanium replacement with the same head diameter and stem diameters weighs about 90 grams. (Differences in the margin thickness and head shape account for the fact that the titanium valve is slightly more than 60 percent of the weight of the steel valve.) Now consider that loads increase exponentially with rpm: Double the engine speed and the forces are quadrupled."

Wow, going from 8800 RPM to 16,6xx, nope carry the one, 17,600,
I've got to agree,
...this cat shaft is a bad mutha'
SHUT YO MOUTH
I'm talkin' 'bout shaft
hose power baby!


@ Rick, what did you mean by this "😀" c'mon man,
that is kind of rough ain't it?
Did you really have to say ampersand pound x?
and then finishing it off in HEX.
 
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