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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,
I am about ready to buy my cam. Here's what I have and hope you can advise me as to what will run best for my application. I have a 1970 - 396 / 402 bored .040 over to about 418 ci. I am running a forged crank on 2 bolt mains. The heads are closed chamber oval port and stock, no porting. The block is being decked. The pistons are KB hypereutectic about 10 - 10.5 :1 on Eagle forged rods. All hardware is ARP. I am not sure what carburator or manifold I am going to use but do have the correct cast iron quadrajet manifold and carburator. I am considering a holley 750 DP'er on an RPM performer. I am using roller rockers with guide plates. My rear is a 3.31:1. OK, now for you power makers, what cam would give me the best performance with the above listed equipment? I plan on using headers on 2 1/2" pipes. I want to use hydraulic rollers. I want the lumpy sound. Also vacuum should not be a problem on brakes. I have the large vacuum can. The car will not be raced regularly , only on rare occasions. My RPM's should be in the 18-2000 to 55-5800 area. I have been told to use a VooDoo 60212, 231 in. / 212 ex. .600 lift or a 60212, 231 in. / 239 ex. Is anyone using these? Any suggestions? I don't want to do alot of adjusting. This is going to cost alot so I don't want to make a bad mistake. What about other Cam Manufacturers? This is the final part to the motor puzzle. :thumbsup:

Thanks for your help, Roland in NY
 

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Roland, when I asked about a roller cam a couple of years ago, Harold himself recommended the Voodoo 60211 HR for my 396. I wound up going with the 60203 for cost reasons, but would have bought the other had I splurged for the roller cam.
 

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On OEM heads I highly recommend a split duration camshaft as the factory heads need some split. Need to know a little more about the engine build but I would see something around 590/560 and around low 230 on intake and around 240ish on exhaust.
 

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considering the engine size, car weight and rear gear I'd recommend you avoid the double pumper. Your car will run better with a vacuum sec carb on an Edelbrock RPM manifold. You might even consider using your your stock manifold and sending your carb to SMI or somebody. much better running deal for a street car. The 750 DP is a carb designed for racing on a large engine. they're pig rich in the idle and cruise range, bad mileage and fouled spark plugs are expected. They don't respond well to attempts to lean them out either.
 

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They're pig rich in the idle and cruise range, bad mileage and fouled spark plugs are expected. They don't respond well to attempts to lean them out either.
I'll second that. The previous owner of my car had a double pumper on my 396, and when I pulled the heads, the pistons have one helluva layer of caked on carbon. They are black.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK guys, consensus time, If I use the Voodoo 60211 roller cam with my stock Quadrajet manifold and have the carb. sent out and rebuilt ( by SMI ), do you think this will be a potent combination? and correct to run on the street? How about roller hydraulic lifters sold by Crankshaft Depot in California? Has anyone used them? They are advertised as selling for $275.00. Does that sound right? They are on Ebay and I am thinking about them but want to hear more from you guys. Thanks for the help,
Roland in NY
 

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Definitely 60212, and get with Mike Lewis or Chris Straub for the best roller lifters. Go smaller on the headers, and Performer RPM and Holley 770 SA. It would be a very potent, done once build, and you will be happy with it.

You stated "I don't want to do alot of adjusting.", why? Good rocker amr locks will keep you from having to do that. I have not touched my solid ft for over a year. You will make more power, and have a lighter valvetrain, and less cost going with a solid ft.
 

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OK guys, consensus time, If I use the Voodoo 60211 roller cam with my stock Quadrajet manifold and have the carb. sent out and rebuilt ( by SMI ), do you think this will be a potent combination? and correct to run on the street? How about roller hydraulic lifters sold by Crankshaft Depot in California? Has anyone used them? They are advertised as selling for $275.00. Does that sound right? They are on Ebay and I am thinking about them but want to hear more from you guys. Thanks for the help,
Roland in NY
The Crankshaft Depot is 100% Chinese stuff. Those lifters are the "morel" compies that are coming into the US for $109 a set. I have had them in my hads and the machine work is very crude. Anytime your read hype that it is a hyd roller lifter good for 10K rpm, you can bet it someone who doesn't know crap about automotive race parts. The $175 saved on lifters would cost you your engine in the long run...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Chris, THANKYOU, that Chinese junk is what I was afraid of. That's why I asked, at this point I don't want to make a bad mistake. Chinese metal is a bad mistake and could cost me the motor. OK, this will take me back a bit. I'm back to having to decide on spending $400.00 + - for hydraulic or $300.00 + - for solids. I am going to run competition cams roller rockers with their locks. What are the advantages of solids vs. hydraulics on a 60211 or a 60212? Are the solid roller lifters with good locks basically maintenence free? (I hope) Thanks for your help. Roland in NY
 

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Get set on all your engine specs and let Sean's bunch, SMI, set the quadrajet up to match. On an engine close to what you are building, less the roller, my SMI carb went from the box to cranking with no adjustments other than idle. I am really pleased.
 

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Like John said above, send your carb to SMI (after you get all your components chosen). Sean does wonderful work with Qjets.

Don't even waste your time with an oem qjet manifold. Look in to an Performer RPM QJet manifold.
 

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Since this is an occassional strip car and mostly street/fun i wouls suggest you tweak the original q-jet,its perfect for a moderate bbc and will get bette fuel ppg too then holley can.

You stock q-jet is rated at 750 cfm and is perfect for a mild bbc.

If you decide to go with it pm me and i can give a good setup to puton it for cam you decide to run . But q-jets dont like over approx 228-230 int dur @ .05 so keep that in mind.

I would also suggest the voodoo 60203 which makes good power,rev's to 5,800rpm+ witrh proper head/vlave srping setup & proper fuel delivery, and it will also work well with a q-jet too.

You could send your q-jet to Sean @ SMI ,he is t/chevelle sponsor and gives 10% offon q-jet work for us. Sean can setitup specifically for your setup and be spot on for good perf rigtht out ofthe box. If you use Sean tell him Scott/all of us from t/chevelle rec you to him.

Sean can either just rblt it to your specs or he can also at an additional charge redye it making it look like a piece of fine art ,looks better then they did when new.

I run a Sean tweaked q-jet on my 69 chevelle with mild approx 370hp/440 lb trq motor with m20 & 331,it works/runs great with that carb.

Scott
 

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Gotta ask??

What's wrong w/ a nice solid lifter cam??

pdq67
X's 2...?!?!

Why is everyone so afraid of them? Both of mine (roller and ft) are so quiet, they don't even sound like solids. My roller is new, but my ft has not been checked for lash for over a year, and is quieter than the xe hydraulic ft cam fitted engines around here.
 

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If I didn't work on my own car I would not want a solid either. I prefer solids and I check my lash at least once a year. I check it more often depending on how often I drive it. I'd hate to have to send my car to some shop even once a year to have lash checked nevermind adjusted. I hate having someone else work on my car period. I think a hydraulic is better for a guy that does not work on his own car. Just my opinion.
 

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If I didn't work on my own car I would not want a solid either. I prefer solids and I check my lash at least once a year. I check it more often depending on how often I drive it. I'd hate to have to send my car to some shop even once a year to have lash checked nevermind adjusted. I hate having someone else work on my car period. I think a hydraulic is better for a guy that does not work on his own car. Just my opinion.
Very well said. :thumbsup:
 
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Geez,

I really miss my old beater cars b/c I'd do something to them at least once or twice a month to dirty my fingernails!

Now, my 2003 Accent that's my DD goes like 10 to 12,000 miles between oil changes b/c it's driven almost 100 percent on the highway commuting 60+ miles round trip a day!

No need to change it's oil any sooner, imho.

pdq67

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Guys, I never said I don't work on my cars, I do but I am trying to limit my time doing valve lash adjustments if I don't have to especially with the mess that the adjusting will make. That's really why I was asking about solid rollers ( much cheaper ) than the hydraulic rollers. I am doing a total, 100% restoration on my car and EVERYTHING is coming off and apart and then being rebuilt and put back together. Chris, thanks for the advice, Paul the motor is 402 / .040 + about 419ci.

Thanks, Roland in NY
 
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