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ARP says to torque ARP head bolts to 65 ft. lbs. when using sealer on threads. Says not to use manufactures suggested torque. On the B block chevy, is that what you guys do or is there other suggestions on that...They also say to torque to 85 if using oil on threads..Also how long do you wait to retorque heads after first start up, using a thin shim head gasket which will need to be retorqued unfortunitly, Thanks
 

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Good question(s) considering I will be using ARP head bolts w/steel shim gaskets on my BBC too.
 

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OK, here goes. When using ARP thread sealer, go with the recommeded 65 Ft/Lbs of torque. Also, use the ARP moly lube on the bolt heads and washers. Do not use oil on Chevy heads, they need sealer as the bolts go into the water jackets. If you use a differant type sealer, go by the stock bolt torque.

The ARP sealer is good stuff. JMO :D
 

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When I put in my ARP studs I used sealer on all water jacket holes and ARP assembly lube on everything else. I used the ARP torque specs and have not retorqued. Perhaps I should...
 

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When assembling i used the ARP thread sealer and torqued them to the recommended spec at 65 lbs, i retorqued them a few days later to double check everything.

Daniel
 

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Rich,

I don't know if this is right or not, but on mild street engines, I wait for 1K before I retorque my head bolts. On a engine that is going to be run hard, I retorque at 200 to 300 Miles and again at 1K. If you have headers it will be a Pain in the @ss, but I always do it.

Fred.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
SS4speed said:
Rich,

I don't know if this is right or not, but on mild street engines, I wait for 1K before I retorque my head bolts. On a engine that is going to be run hard, I retorque at 200 to 300 Miles and again at 1K. If you have headers it will be a Pain in the @ss, but I always do it.

Fred.
A pain in the ass is right Fred. Those headers are a bear to mess with..

Thanks ALL you guys, you always come thru....
 

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With the ARP heads studs on my 454 I put teflon sealer on the threads, installed them, put on the gaskets and heads and torqued them down in 3 increments. Let them sit and never touched them again. On my sealer it said to not retorque them after they had set up for 24 hours. So far I haven't had any issues in 2+ years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
phel69 said:
With the ARP heads studs on my 454 I put teflon sealer on the threads, installed them, put on the gaskets and heads and torqued them down in 3 increments. Let them sit and never touched them again. On my sealer it said to not retorque them after they had set up for 24 hours. So far I haven't had any issues in 2+ years.
Bob what type of gasket did you use??? was it the real thin shim?? mine is the compressed to .020 by mr gasket. thought it would need a retorque, I better check that sealer label..
 

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I used the Rol .039 in gaskets. They seemed to be fine and being thicker than what you used, I would think they would be more prone to needing a retorque. I used shim gaskets on my number matching 396 that I pulled out of my Camaro and I never did a retourque on them either. I ran it for a few years after rebuilding with no issues but it doesn't have too many miles on it. I have never had a leakage problem with either engine.
 

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phel69 said:
I used the Rol .039 in gaskets. They seemed to be fine and being thicker than what you used, I would think they would be more prone to needing a retorque. I used shim gaskets on my number matching 396 that I pulled out of my Camaro and I never did a retourque on them either. I ran it for a few years after rebuilding with no issues but it doesn't have too many miles on it. I have never had a leakage problem with either engine.
Do you remember the brand of teflon sealer you used?
 

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The modulus of elasticity of steel is virtualy the same no matter what the
alloy. http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/properties_of_metals_strength.htm

So, chrome moly vs mild steel will exert the same force on the head
gasket given the same torque spec. The only difference is the bolts ability
to return to the relaxed length after getting stretched. The only reason for alloy
bolts like ARPs is to allow a greater clamping force to be placed on the joint and
still have a margin of safety before the bolt fails. The problem with this and head bolts, is the cast iron block. If you put excessive force on the threads in the block, you could pull the treads out before stretching an ARP bolt to its optimum holding power. There is no need to do this. Just torque the head bolts, no matter who's they are, to the factory torque spec using the factory lubrication recomendations.

Now rod bolts are a different story.


PS

senior, why do you spell Canada with a "K" ?
 

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Pro67Chevy said:
I thought retorqueing the head bolts was only for aluminum heads? And cast iron you left alone.

Jim
I was told that because I am using steel shim head gaskets (w/iron heads) that I need to re-torque the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
bluerebl said:
I was told that because I am using steel shim head gaskets (w/iron heads) that I need to re-torque the bolts.
Your suppose to, but I have read a few times here some do some don't...
 
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