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I have a 69 with factory gauges rebuilt by Clock Doc in Tennessee. The oil pressure gauge & tachometer seem fine, but the temp gauge reads way hot when my Autometer mechanical backup gauge reads 185 degrees.
 

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Mike,
Sounds like you have the wrong sending unit or temperature variances from sender mounting location (one in the head, the other in the manifold), if using simultaneously.

Should the different readings occur when swapped between the same location, try a sender listed for another application. I know that one of my older motorhomes had the same problem. I'm not sure whether it had the wrong unit all along or the circuit either developed more or less resistance over time or what. But when I changed it, the correct unit (according to application), produced considerably exagerated readings (unsure which direction now).

If I remember correctly, the catalog asked whether the guage maxxed at 260* or 280* or something along those lines. To get by, I had temporarily installed an under dash manual guage. When the opportunity arose, I tried the sender for the alternate listing and it seemed to indicate pretty close to that of the manual guage.

Just thought I'd share my findings, call it anal, but I have a hang up with redundancy. Besides I like having the interior stock appearing.

That said, I have an under dash voltage meter that I'd just as soon eliminate. However, since the factory ammeter isn't worth a rats rectum (especially with an upgraded/modern alternator), the meter will stay put for the time being. I have disassembled several different volt meters in search of one that will fit in the existing ammeter location and mimic the range and direction of the needles "swing", so far, to no avail.

Any experience or suggestions in this department would be greatly appreciated. I've heard that an ammeter to volt meter conversion existed, but can't say that I have seen it on the market yet.

For similar reasons, my 6K factory knee knocker resides in my garage. If I were to stumble upon an 8K or higher internal upgrade (modern tach conversion), then I would definitely consider re-installing it and removing the tumor attached to my steering column. I could almost do that anyway, I never look at the damn thing.
 

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Thanks Rowdy, I'll try a different sending unit next time I need to drain the coolant. Right now, I have my Autometer mechanical plugged into the cylinder head, and the factory gauge plugged into the water outlet on the intake.
 

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Rowdy ..Shiftworks now makes a voltmeter to replace the factoy 66/67amp meter / fuel guage, you can buy it for about 50.00 looks identical to stock amp / fuel guage and bolts right in .....I installed one in my 66 works great somehwere have the instructions easy to do

FWIW
 

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Bill,
I'll try www.shiftworks.com or do a keyword "shiftworks" search. Any additional info would be appreciated.

Rowdy
 

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Bill,
I'll try www.shiftworks.com or do a keyword "shiftworks" search. Any additional info would be appreciated.

Rowdy
Yep, thats the site ..... the wiring diagram for voltmeter is on the site IIRC you take the power from fuel guage ........the site may only show the complete guage package but if you phone they will sell you the volt / fuel separately
 

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They do only list the complete conversion package, but I will inquire by telephone at the first opportunity.

Thanks
 

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Can anybody comment on the accuracy of the aftermarket guages?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
after having gone through the work and expense of installing the after market gauges i'd strongly suggest you save your money and use knee knocker auto meters or build a custom which is what i'm going to do. the temp gauge has never moved more than 1/4 inch the tach wiggles a bit and i'll be damned if i can find any way to hok up the ammeter. these units look nice but don't work. save your hard earned bucks.
 

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i don't think there is such a thing as a 100% accurate gauge.. they are all there to tell you generally what your car is doing- as long as the gauges stay in about the same place for a given operating condition, you are probably fine. but when the temp gauge starts to read higher or the oil pressure lower all of a sudden, then you know something is going wrong. the main advantage of a gauge over an idiot light is that you can catch problems before they get too bad.
 
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