[MALIBRU]

I'm putting in an SMI QJet that's slightly different in the linkage area. Throttle cable is a good 1.5-inches too long and TH350 detent is about 1-inch too short. Where are these adjusted? Throttle was out of wack before, so need to fix it now. QJet bracket is GM 3972618 and the cable has an orange "CG" sticker.

For the tranny, I don't see what they are talking about in the 1970 Service Manual in Section 7-30 & 7-31 regarding the "snap lock" on the detent cable.

 

[MALIBRU]

Got the detent adjustment figured out.

Throttle cable looks like it will need a new crimp at the pedal bracket to shorten. Is this the best method?

 

[blasttime]

Modify the bracket move it back dont cut the cable

 

[Tom Mobley]

what's wrong with the throttle cable? looks like it would be about right one you got the rubber mount bushing put back together?

Was this a 2-bbl car?

 

[Philip]

I agree with Tom, it appears to be long enough to reach the carb linkage and if it pulls the carb wide open it is good to go.

If you need to adjust the mounting point to make it work an adjustable bracket makes it much easier.

$10 at most speed shops

 

[MALIBRU]

I don't understand it if I'm using the OEM bracket (it was like this even before I removed it from the bracket for the picture). This was a factory 350/300 L48 car. What does that "CG" code on my cable mean insofar as length? That first pic of mine is with the cable pulled tight - therefore gas pedal all the way up. No slack.

 

[furball8994]

I don't understand it if I'm using the OEM bracket (it was like this even before I removed it from the bracket for the picture). This was a factory 350/300 L48 car. What does that "CG" code on my cable mean insofar as length? That first pic of mine is with the cable pulled tight - therefore gas pedal all the way up. No slack.

Yes but the rubber mount was not slipped into the bracket. Now that the mount is in the bracket, Pull the end out and see where it hits the linkage..

 

[MALIBRU]

The rubber groment doesn't matter. The hard plastic piece behind the carb mount in my first pic is the limiting factor. If it were threaded for adjustment - or even like the detent adjuster - I'd be okay. This new pic is with everything new bolted down. I did however relocate the throttle stud for better alignment. Took up some slack...

The answer appears to be at the pedal. Some type of cable clamp to take up the slack on the pedal side. And I agree about not 'cutting' the cable.

 

[Philip]

Steve if you remove the slack will there still be enough cable to pull the throttle wide open?

That was the problem I was having, I removed the slack by using one of the split weights from my tackle box and then could not get WOT. There are several lengths of throttle cables available for each model. 6 cylinder, V8 2bbl and V8 4 bbl and some years V8 with Holley. I was not looking for originality so I installed the adjustable bracket and set it to the optimum position.

 

[MALIBRU]

I'm thinking "bicycle shop". There's all kinds of cable adjusters there. In the car, I need to take-up 1" of slack.

OR.....

Eighteen Pennys with a hacksaw cut halfway - basically a slotted flat washer - could do it. (Just found out I need to double-up on the blades to get the slot width.) Let's see, glue about 15 of them together, add a few cents to take up the slack. Stagger the slots and run some duct tape around the 18-cent stack to keep it together. That's the cheapest I can do

BTW: My imagination is running wild right now... just installed a new fuel line to the pump and unknowingly cracked the pump. Started it up and GAS ALL OVER THE PLACE!!!!!!