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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry to post this in the performance area, but I haven't received any replies in the Brakes section and this setup seems to be more common in high perf cars.

Anyhow, I had disc/drum with a power booster and existing master cylinder. I've removed the booster and changed out the MC to accommodate for the lack of the power booster, using the exisiting distribution block.

What I'm looking for is pre-bent brake lines to run from the dist block on the drivers side frame rail to the MC that is mounted directly on the firewall. I've noticed a lot of the standard brake line kits have the dist block / proportioning valve mounted to the MC.

I can always get some lines and bend them, but if I can buy them ready to install that would be preferred. I know a few guys in here have similar setups, so I'm hoping someone can chime in.

Thanks,
Todd
 

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hello lou here from nj i have a 1967 chevelle, i installed a 11 inch booster and master, i used the distribution block and picked up a brake valve or the original style proportioning valve but new, mount it in the original position, brake lines i used were from Inline Tube Company the lines fit exact no bending, i thought as you make up the lines why go nuts all done fit finished. put the proportioning valve where it belongs make a better job
is your car a 67 chevelle good luck keep us posted
 

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I have a manual disk/drum setup and new lines from the master to the original distribution block. They are for manual drum/drum setup. Just installed on my '69 that was originally a manual drum/drum. My '70 is identical.

I don't have a part number handy but I used Right Stuff for the lines.
 

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Sorry to butt in.What master are you using?I cannot locate a drum-drum non power master anywheres.I tried the Wilwood 7/8 bore and never worked for me.Funny because I've used one before on my 65.It just refused to bleed.Ended up using a 'Vette manual 1" bore ,but really have to stand on it.
As far as brake lines,buying the brakeline flaring kit makes it easy.Be aware of the re pop brass prop valve distribution-factory replacements.They must be Chinese because I bought 2 in a row that leaked ,not at the fittings but through either the front or rears,go figure.
 

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Just get copper/nickle line and make the lines the way you want them. It's so easy to work with you will wonder what all the fuss is about pre bent lines. Any cheap flare tool with flare it easily and you don't need a bending tool for it, you can bend it with your fingers.
 

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I have a disc/drum set up in my 66. Wilwood dynalites up front, Wilwood manual master and proportioning valve. Rears are OEM drums. Stops just fine.
 

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Sorry to butt in.What master are you using?I cannot locate a drum-drum non power master anywheres.I tried the Wilwood 7/8 bore and never worked for me.Funny because I've used one before on my 65.It just refused to bleed.Ended up using a 'Vette manual 1" bore ,but really have to stand on it.
As far as brake lines,buying the brakeline flaring kit makes it easy.Be aware of the re pop brass prop valve distribution-factory replacements.They must be Chinese because I bought 2 in a row that leaked ,not at the fittings but through either the front or rears,go figure.
Make sure your push rod is in the upper hole on the brake pedal if you are not using a booster. A master from a '69 or '70 without disks will work for you. Probably less than $30 at Napa. I'm using a master from a '76 Malibu to match the 11" rear drums from the same car with my front disk conversion. I don't know how well it works yet but it's all factory matched stuff so it should be fine. I had a similar setup on my '70 that used a Camaro manual master for disk/drum with 9.5" drum and it worked great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have a manual disk/drum setup and new lines from the master to the original distribution block. They are for manual drum/drum setup. Just installed on my '69 that was originally a manual drum/drum. My '70 is identical.

I don't have a part number handy but I used Right Stuff for the lines.
Thanks for the reply Tommy.

I'm thinking this is the kit you picked up - CKT6901
 

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I'm using a manual disc Corvette 1"bore and although it stops great,It's too much pedal effort for the wife.I just found a CCP 15/16 bore master#M-C1516-L that i'm going to order.That should do it and looks just like the Vette one I have .Ya know several years ago you could get an early Camaro,GTO,Chevelle manual non power drum 7/8 "m.c. everywhere.It's like they all vanished!They worked great with front disc non power.No you have to shell out $200 for the Wilwood as that bore is rarer than shrimp ribs.
 

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Thanks for the reply Tommy.

I'm thinking this is the kit you picked up - CKT6901
That's the one. You won't use the two smallest lines, they're for the drum wheel cylinder to hose bracket. Really, it only sounds like you need items 7 and 8.
 

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I'm curious what performance benefit is thought to come from removing the booster. A 15lb weight reduction?
 

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If running a big cam ,vacumn operated boosters won't work well,if not at all.Hydro-boost assist off power steering,electric vacumn booster or run manual brakes solves the problem.Once properly set up they work great.My problem is finding the right m.c. which I think I finally may have.The Wilwood 7/8 pedal travel for me was too far and spongy(it was bled forever)It may be the CCP big disc brake kit I have in the front.When running the Dynolite brakes in my 65 they worked great with 7/8 bore Wilwood master.Strange.
 

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Wilwood put me in the 15/16th's master. So far it has stopped me. Certainly requires a little more pedal pressure than my prior dual diaphragm 7" CPP booster.
 

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'72 Monte Carlo master, lines and proportioning valve. Fit perfect in my '65 when I converted it to disk in the 90's with factory parts.
 

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I had the ECI conversion kit for manual front disc/rear drum with their distribution block. I also have the 11" Master Power big rear drums. I thought everything was working. After recently swapping the front discs for the CPP Big Brake Kit, some high speed brake testing showed the backs would lock before the fronts (a bit scary). I thought the mismatching of brake systems combined with a more back tire than front was the problem. I added an adjustable proportioning valve that helped but I'm still playing with the dial. If things are not stock, I'd recommend using an adjustable valve instead of a distribution block.
 

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I'm curious what performance benefit is thought to come from removing the booster. A 15lb weight reduction?
If running a big cam ,vacumn operated boosters won't work well,if not at all.Hydro-boost assist off power steering,electric vacumn booster or run manual brakes solves the problem.Once properly set up they work great.My problem is finding the right m.c. which I think I finally may have.The Wilwood 7/8 pedal travel for me was too far and spongy(it was bled forever)It may be the CCP big disc brake kit I have in the front.When running the Dynolite brakes in my 65 they worked great with 7/8 bore Wilwood master.Strange.
That's the big benefit of non-power brakes, you can use whatever performance cam that works for your engine set-up without vacuum worries. It saves money for other things rather than buying electro-boosters or Hydro-boost. I got into the manual disc/drum setup when my father-in-law bought a new '72 Ford from the dealer with no PB, just manual disc/drum. Worked great. I had an early '70's Duster 340 with manual disc/drum from the factory. Both cars stopped really well (of course we both walked a good bit on our jobs so our legs had no problems with these set ups).>:)
 
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