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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Your camber is the result of the added weight of the BBC and/or needing an alignment. The extra weight made the front sit lower, which is why you have a camber change. You don't want 0 camber, you want .5* negative with 1/16 toe, and as much pos caster as you can get up to 6*.
 
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The post above is correct.

I know you said you plan on doing the rear in the summer but I’d recommend attacking some of the front and rear now and then doing more as you can afford. Things like control arms.

For a thousand dollars I would:
-Buy this UMI kit
-Install new moog ball joints
-get an alignment

 
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[/QUOTE]
Your camber is the result of the added weight of the BBC and/or needing an alignment. The extra weight made the front sit lower, which is why you have a camber change. You don't want 0 camber, you want .5* negative with 1/16 toe, and as much pos castor as you can get up to 6*.
is there any reason why i would want .5 negative camber and 1/16 toes? wouldn't i want the car to be as straight as possible? sorry im new to suspension and im trying to learn one area of the car at a time. but thats what i was assuming was happening, big block sitting on small block springs.... it happened to my dads car but his front in just fell, i wonder why mine is caving in? i found that belle tire is doing a free vehicle inspection so ill be taking it to them today after school. I know i need new front springs and front shocks, and im thinking about picking up this kit from summit racing, it has control arm bushings, tire rod bushings and ball joints, and ill maybe swap out the control arms if i have to.
 

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The post above is correct.

I know you said you plan on doing the rear in the summer but I’d recommend attacking some of the front and rear now and then doing more as you can afford. Things like control arms.

For a thousand dollars I would:
-Buy this UMI kit
-Install new moog ball joints
-get an alignment

thanks for the recommendation, i recently installed rear shocks in the car and i can say that the rear end is nice and firm and when i hit bumps i can barely feel them so ill deferentially get on the front. do you think an alignment can fix my camber? it seems to keep getting worse and worse, its at about 6 degrees now and im starting to look like one of those jdm stance boys.....
 

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If your running 5-6 degrees positive caster you dont really need much static negative camber because as soon as you make any kind of turn the camber is there where you want it... I would set them a negative .25 both sides 1/32 toe in both sides, with 7 positive passenger side, 6.50 drivers side.. Hi static camber makes the car hard to hold straight on the highway and it really helps the wind move the car around..
 

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Kyle, you really need to define how you want the car to handle. In most cases, the freshened factory suspension (proper springs, shocks and bushings, and sway bar upgrades) will make the car handle very nicely.
 

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You may want BB springs instead of the small block springs for starters.
 

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I recommend restoring to FULLY FUNCTIONAL OEM. That will yield a nice diving car that YOU (with your inexperience) can easily research the parts required and the alignment specs. Save any 'upgrades' until after you get it back on the road in drivable condition (and can save up the $).

Oh, those 'spacers' in the springs are propping them up. You NEED new springs at a minimum.

Do you have the GM Manuals for your car? ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL.

Pete
 

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With a $1000 budget, get yourself a set of UMI upper A-arms (link below), and replace the rest of your front suspension parts like the lower ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, ect. with a good factory-equivalent like Moog. And finally, a new set of shocks.

You'll go over budget if you pay a shop to do this. You'll need a couple of specialty tools for this job: a coil spring compressor, and a pickle fork to separate the ball joints. You should be able to rent both of these at any local auto parts store.

When you're done, you'll need to get an alignment.

You could get away with keeping the stock upper A-arms if that pushes your budget too much. But the shape and geometry of the stock arms limits your positive caster. You can get more positive caster by switching to the UMI arms, and more positive caster is going to help make your steering feel snappier and it'll make your car feel like it's on rails when you're driving at highway speeds. They are well worth the investment.

1964-1972 GM A-Body Tubular Upper A-Arms, 1/2" Taller Ball Joints - UMI Performance Inc.
 

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thanks for the recommendation, i recently installed rear shocks in the car and i can say that the rear end is nice and firm and when i hit bumps i can barely feel them so ill deferentially get on the front. do you think an alignment can fix my camber? it seems to keep getting worse and worse, its at about 6 degrees now and im starting to look like one of those jdm stance boys.....
As I have mentioned in one of your Other Threads
the Back of your Car is way to High and or the Diameter of your Wheels/Tires are to Low
 

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Do be careful if you're taking apart the front suspension!

Those springs have a lot of stored energy even with the front lifted completely off the ground - they can shoot out of there really violently if you lose control of them, and people have gotten badly injured that way.

Using the right tools (like the spring compressor) is a good idea. I've seen some videos of people doing it with just a floor jack, but that seems really unsafe...
 

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The post above is correct.

I know you said you plan on doing the rear in the summer but I’d recommend attacking some of the front and rear now and then doing more as you can afford. Things like control arms.

For a thousand dollars I would:
-Buy this UMI kit
-Install new moog ball joints
-get an alignment

Kyal this is what you should have bought for your Front and Back of your Car
then you would have only had to address the Front Steering Components after
1968-1972 GM A-Body Handling Package, Factory Height/Lowering- Stage 1 - UMI Performance Inc.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Kyal this is what you should have bought for your Front and Back of your Car
then you would have only had to address the Front Steering Components after
1968-1972 GM A-Body Handling Package, Factory Height/Lowering- Stage 1 - UMI Performance Inc.
Thats a lot of money for springs, shocks an sway bars. With his budget he can completely overhaul the front and rear suspension, shocks, steering gear, ball joints using moog stock style parts. Probably end up with money left over.
 

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Does your $1000 budget include paying someone to do this work for you? If so, you're not going to have enough to spend on quality aftermarket control arms, etc.

The alignment specs that have been posted are spot on for aftermarket arms, but there's no chance you're going to see 6˚ of positive caster on stock upper control arms. The best you could hope to get would be 2.5-3˚.

This is a great project for you to learn how the suspension of your car works, if you decide to tear into it yourself, but be aware that any work involving front coil springs can be very dangerous. You can get seriously hurt if that spring gets loose while you're removing or installing it.
 

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Does your $1000 budget include paying someone to do this work for you? If so, you're not going to have enough to spend on quality aftermarket control arms, etc.

The alignment specs that have been posted are spot on for aftermarket arms, but there's no chance you're going to see 6˚ of positive camber on stock upper control arms. The best you could hope to get would be 2.5-3˚.

This is a great project for you to learn how the suspension of your car works, if you decide to tear into it yourself, but be aware that any work involving front coil springs can be very dangerous. You can get seriously hurt if that spring gets loose while you're removing or installing it.
Did you mean 'caster'? If so, even 2 degrees of positive caster is inadvisable on OEM upper control arms. They were made to be basically 'neutral' (ball joints vertically one above the other).

Pete
 

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Did you mean 'caster'? If so, even 2 degrees of positive caster is inadvisable on OEM upper control arms. They were made to be basically 'neutral' (ball joints vertically one above the other).

Pete
You're correct, I meant caster. Obviously that was an error. My GF decided to start an argument with me this morning while I was typing my reply. Editing now.
 

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i’m focusing on the front for now and will visit the rear in the summer. i plan to have zero camber, no toe and a stiff firm straight ride.

but does anyone know why my chevelles front two wheels have negative camber (top of the wheels sit in towards the engine and bottom of wheels sit out)? i figured it was my control arms and if i’m going to replace those, i might aswell replace some other parts of the front suspension. my car was a factory small block and has been swapped over to a big block so my suspension is still stock small block suspension. only things that have been replaced are front and rear shocks and rear control arms.

(here’s the video and pictures, THE VIDEO ACTUALLY SHOWS MORE, SORRY I DIDNT TAKE MORE PICTURES and if their not good quality)

front suspension <—VIDEO

Drivers Side: View attachment 708715
View attachment 708717

Passenger Side: View attachment 708716 View attachment 708718
Here's the link to the "Brakes, Suspension & Steering" section of the forum. Brakes, Suspension & Steering
 

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A kit like this and properly sized springs. Then a front end alignment.

 

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If your running 5-6 degrees positive caster you dont really need much static negative camber because as soon as you make any kind of turn the camber is there where you want it... I would set them a negative .25 both sides 1/32 toe in both sides, with 7 positive passenger side, 6.50 drivers side.. Hi static camber makes the car hard to hold straight on the highway and it really helps the wind move the car around..
thank you for the recomendations ill not what you said to the shop when they check the car out and possible alignment
 

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Kyle, you really need to define how you want the car to handle. In most cases, the freshened factory suspension (proper springs, shocks and bushings, and sway bar upgrades) will make the car handle very nicely.
this is my first car and ive really only driven 3 cars in my life so i dont really know how i want it to handle... i would love for it to handle like my moms car, stiff and not jankly but i dont know what i would need to do to have a nice firm ride. I just want something that'll stiffen up the car and when i go over bumps or reach high speeds, the car will stay stable.
 
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