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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On Saturday I took the 'vair to a car show. The radiator is lower than the top of the engine and I have a filler/pressure cap on the engine, and a higher pressure cap on the the radiator.
I'd been futsing with trying to get all the air out of the system and had some kind of brain fart. Left a cap loose, and unloaded about half the coolant in about 30 miles.

Before this happened I was running a 50/50 mix. Running temps were 180 in town, and would rise to 200 @ 65mph due to my bottom feeder, electric fan combo with ambiant temps around 70. After the car cooled down from the coolant loss, I refilled with straight water. Took 3 gals(cap is 5)

Today, at ambient of 94, it ran no hotter that 185 @ 65mph.

It seems that a 50/50 mix has a higher boiling point than just water, but it also seems that water by itself cools the engine better and it runs at a lower temps.

Anyone want to share?
 

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Water is a better heat conductor than antifreeze, however it has no lubricating properties, which may shorten the life of your water pump. Also as you mentioned, the boiling point is lower running straight water, and I'm sure it gets below 32` in Idaho ;)

Another question: your 'bottom feeder' cooling-could your radiator shrouds around the electric fan be blocking air at highway speeds? I"ve heard of some setups that use rubber flaps to permit air to flow thru the shroud at highway speeds, but close up at lower (in town) speeds. Might help???
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sid,
The car was built with the idea that you wouldn'd see the mods from a casual walk around, so I cut out everything between the fuel tank and the front facia, or the trunk floor on the Corvair, and installed a 16"X32" radiator with two fairly modest electric fans. These are no high test pieces, and The front facia is uncut and airflow depends on fans.
 

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Mike, I'd love to see some photos and have some additional info on your Corvair. Grew up around Corvairs all my life. I've never owned one but my Dad and brothers has owned quite a few, and still do. Many years ago, one of my brothers had a 66 Corv-8. Never got the thing finished before he sold it, but the few times he had that thing out it was awsome. :yes: Probably a 450hp 327, 12:1 scr, ported heads, huge solid lifter cam in a car that weighed around 2500 lbs. That thing would run, until he broke the transaxle. :sad: Sold it shortly there after.

Sorry to hijack your post. :)
 

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Everything I've read says if you're running straight h20, you need to add a lube to help the water pump. Just my .02.

Neat Mike, would love to see some pictures of it! Any way to rig a spoiler or some other ducting device to direct air 'up' at the radiator? Having owned an Olds Aurora, I can definitely state that a piece like that is needed for ram air at highway speeds if you don't have a front opening, car would run 180` around town, 220` highway. Think our old 69 Chevy van also had a metal plate with louvers punched in it to direct air up to the radiator.

Another thing to check-does the air have an escape route on the exit side of the radiator? If it's all trapped under the hood, you won't get the flow needed. Just a few thoughts here ;)

Love to see pics sometime!
 

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Ive always heard the same. Lube or not in water....water dont lube as well as antifreeze, so straight water can decrease pump life. I suppose I could have heard wrong.....but I always heard water by itself doesnt lube as well.

Additionally, that whole freezing point thing comes into play for cold weather AND antifreeze helps inhibits rusting(straight water all the time and you will eventually see rusting in the passages). Its good to have some antifreeze in there, but a lighter mix will cool better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Everything I've read says if you're running straight h20, you need to add a lube to help the water pump. Just my .02.

Neat Mike, would love to see some pictures of it! Any way to rig a spoiler or some other ducting device to direct air 'up' at the radiator? Having owned an Olds Aurora, I can definitely state that a piece like that is needed for ram air at highway speeds if you don't have a front opening, car would run 180` around town, 220` highway. Think our old 69 Chevy van also had a metal plate with louvers punched in it to direct air up to the radiator.

Another thing to check-does the air have an escape route on the exit side of the radiator? If it's all trapped under the hood, you won't get the flow needed. Just a few thoughts here ;)

Love to see pics sometime!
I'll try to post some pics on a web hosting site that I have an account with. I generally run out of patence before I get it done as they are always trying to sell something.

I have a small spoiler, and know that a deeper one would work better, but in the interest of hiding everything, I've resisted going bigger until I get more powerful fans in. I hear some of the cars with electric fans that roar when they're on, these just hum a bit. There is more exit room for the air than the approx 400sq in of inlet.

The mods to the original car, plus the color, make it almost invisable with the deck lid closed. Front facia intact, back seats in original location, exhaust tucked up and exiting 90 degrees. At the car show Saturday I left the deck lid down for the first hour, and my friends and I watched the crowd. Women walked right to it (color is evening orchid with white seats) and the men just glanced. After I opened the deck lid, a crowd slowly formed with 4-5 people around it for most of the day, a dozen or so at times. Lots of head shaking as minds tryed to comprehend what they were seeing, head scraching as well.
 

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I thought water pumps had a sealed bearing in them. I did not know that the antifreeze or water ever got into the bearing unless the water pump seal went bad. I thought that antifreeze served two purposes; to keep the cooling system metal from rusting (water jackets, heads, etc.), and to prevent the coolant from freezing. Boy, do I feel dumb!

Keith
 

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Mike,

Awesome car! :yes:

Talk about a sleeper! I did not realize that the when using the Olds engine/transaxle swap that the stock back seat could still be utilized. Is the engine stock or have you had any work done?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Mike,

Awesome car! :yes:

Talk about a sleeper! I did not realize that the when using the Olds engine/transaxle swap that the stock back seat could still be utilized. Is the engine stock or have you had any work done?
Thanks

The engine is a '66. It has a 455 crank with custom pistons using the org. 425 7" rods. The 66 had a weird lifter angle, but also has 1" lifter bore, and a custom cam with 272 duration and .495 lift designed around the 1" lifters. Heads were just barely molested. Idles @ 900-1000 with an atitude. The trans is also a '66 with the switch pitch convertor.

I'll have to get you another picture. The back seat and firewall have been boxed around the waterpump pulley and belt. The seat is the factory fold down, and I can get to the front of the motor in about 5 minutes.
 

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on the water issue,i always use distilled water,helps keeps the radiator passages clear..
 

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VERY nice car Mike!! Bet you've suprised more than a few folks with that baby!! Thanks for the pictures
 
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