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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took the Kissin Cousin out to the track after putting the engine back in.
Ran 11.40's with the car healing over like a sail boat out of the hole.


I need to get an Anti roll bar.
The air bags can't handle the twist of the new engine combo.


Pondering which way to go.
I've researched into both the under axle and the over axle styles and both work.
Most everyone on here seems to lean towards the under axle style.


Is that due to ease if installation?
Being the over axle is a tight fit and takes some welding vs. under axle is straight bolt on?


To me engineering wise the over axle would seem to be the better way go.
Less weight.
Less unsprung weight.
The torsion is on a straight tube not bent solid stock.


I understand the under axle bars are most likely heat treated after bending.
But then again there is the metal grain structure of the bar and the 90 degree bends on each end to consider.
The bends look like a very possible torsional twist failure point.
Along with poly mounts to distort and wear out.


Am I missing something?
 

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Space usually determines my choice or ground clearance.
I have bent my own bars from factory bars.. heat and bend where I need them to be and air cool with air compressor and blow gun.
Never had a failure and never had one twist out of shape.

I have a Ford explorer re-bent bar on the rear of my 47 Dodge. Took a 300ZX bar and made a front bar from it for the front of the Dodge.
I also have a 1976 Dodge truck bar re-bent on the front of my 1957 Chevy 2 door.
 

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2000 Trans Am WS6
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My car runs similar numbers....so I'll share what route I went.

Stock rear swaybar, the car felt like it was going to roll over into the other lane on launch...lol.

Swapped on a $300 Hellwig 1.125" adjustable rear bar, that connects to frame cross brace, instead of lower trailing arms.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hel-55864

This "helped", but even with preload on it, the car still rolled over to the right a fair amount.

Finally installed a BMR Xtreme drag bar, and car stays very straight now.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmr-xsb006h

Only downside is that it's very heavy, since it's a solid 1-3/8" bar...but because it's solid, is probably why it works.
The Hellwig was hollow, so it had flex, and not too much better than stock

A lot of people use the UMI bar, and that's probably a better choice if you're weight conscious. It's only 50 bucks more than the BMR....

An actual ANTI ROLL BAR setup whoops all of the above, but pretty much guarantees no tailpipes, and a much more involved install....but it 100% cures any rollover...We have one on my son's supercharged Mustang and that car stays flat, no matter what.

Wolfe Race Craft - Detail
 

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I ended up with the Top Gun Anti Roll Bar from Chassis Engineering. Car has no side to side roll, goes straight down the track too but does need TIG welded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
My car runs similar numbers....so I'll share what route I went.

Stock rear swaybar, the car felt like it was going to roll over into the other lane on launch...lol.

Swapped on a $300 Hellwig 1.125" adjustable rear bar, that connects to frame cross brace, instead of lower trailing arms.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hel-55864

This "helped", but even with preload on it, the car still rolled over to the right a fair amount.

Finally installed a BMR Xtreme drag bar, and car stays very straight now.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmr-xsb006h

Only downside is that it's very heavy, since it's a solid 1-3/8" bar...but because it's solid, is probably why it works.
The Hellwig was hollow, so it had flex, and not too much better than stock

A lot of people use the UMI bar, and that's probably a better choice if you're weight conscious. It's only 50 bucks more than the BMR....

An actual ANTI ROLL BAR setup whoops all of the above, but pretty much guarantees no tailpipes, and a much more involved install....but it 100% cures any rollover...We have one on my son's supercharged Mustang and that car stays flat, no matter what.

Wolfe Race Craft - Detail

That's kind of what I was thinking the results would be about bar types.


I started with stock arms and nothing else. 327 sbc 13.50's
Boxed the arms installed poly bushing and added air bags. 383 sbc 12.20's
" same as above " 468 bbc 11.80's


Now with engine changes to the 468 it is unruly on launch.
Looking at something along these lines.
A-Body Suspension, Sway Bar (Anti-Roll Bar) - Wolfe Race Craft


I don't have tail pipes and haven't even considered them.
It's intended purpose is more strip/street than street/strip.
I love not having the trailer hassle.
I just drive it out and stick it in the lane.
 

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BMR here. Was a pretty simple installation with no welding required and works great. Only issue I have is unless you disconnect it, it's difficult to jack it up under the diff because it's in the way. It didn't make a huge improvement on, the time slip, but is much more consistant and far less drama.
 
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I run a BMR ARB on my 3850 land yacht.Been on the car for 5 years. Works well at my hp level. 3" tail pipes clear without issue.

Well built but heavy. It does hang a little below the rear center section. I call it the armadillo killer. LOL!. Kidding aside I have plenty of ground clearance.

David
 

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2000 Trans Am WS6
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Like these guys said, it does hang a little low, but not ridiculously low.
In other words, not like my POS Hooker headers low...lol

I also run 3" tails with no issues whatsoever, with the BMR Xtreme bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I run a BMR ARB on my 3850 land yacht.Been on the car for 5 years. Works well at my hp level. 3" tail pipes clear without issue.

Well built but heavy. It does hang a little below the rear center section. I call it the armadillo killer. LOL!. Kidding aside I have plenty of ground clearance.

David

Armadillo killer, I love it.


Took one of those off the front with engine changes.
Old oil pan hung a 1 1/2" below the cross member, 2" with the skid plate I made for protection.
Used to snag man hole covers.


I am trying to hide things from the less scrupulous eyes if possible.
Like the hood scoop, roll bar and slicks don't give it away already.
 

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BMR here, made a big improvement on my car.
 

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1971 Chevelle. Carb’d 6.0 LS Th350 3.90 12 Bolt. 1972 Greenbrier Wagon 489, 700r4 3,73 12 bolt
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I have the BMR as well. It works great for me. I have no front sway bar, the front end is loose and with the ARB on it, you can't tell. It corners flat and really drives pretty decent. Launches straight, no twist.

Like others have said it is heavy. If weight is a concern, the UMI might be something to look at.
 

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Yep you got it a true drag race antiroll bar is the way to go attach to frame crossmember and widest point on axle tube ..for big power weld in upper is best if you have room but others work too ......I have the HRP bar pbly the first true bolt on drag antiroll bar that lots have copied just clears my 3" tailpipes
 

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I have a bend in my bolt in bar, it opened up the one side 3/4". I was told the weld in bars are more "efficient" Here is another selection for you to consider from TRZ.

Under Axle Anti-Roll Bar (Billet Arms)

 

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I did the UMI in my 70ss. Easy installation and works great. Mark Jones recomended the wolf weld in type to me but I did not want to have to cut it out of there if I wanted to change it. My 60 foots went from 1.75 to 1.55 after I installed it. I leave off of idle footbraking with a 4000 pound car. Well worth the money.
 

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Like others have said it is heavy. If weight is a concern, the UMI might be something to look at.
Our bar is 12lbs lighter than the solid BMR bar, which helps a lot. Unfortunately it cost more to offer it is a tubular option which makes it more expensive to purchase. But a lot of people spend way more than $50 to save 12lbs. The bar tucks tight up around the rear end too, it doesn't hang as low as others.

Hope this info helps.
Ryan

I did the UMI in my 70ss. Easy installation and works great. Mark Jones recomended the wolf weld in type to me but I did not want to have to cut it out of there if I wanted to change it. My 60 foots went from 1.75 to 1.55 after I installed it. I leave off of idle footbraking with a 4000 pound car. Well worth the money.
Great to hear Mike! :)
 

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UMI rear bar installed. To be honest, I haven't driven the car enough.... yet.... but so far, so good. Jacking up can be a challenge. I should make a fixture for my jack that cradles the bar in a pocket. hummmmm.. thanks, another project.
 

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I have a HrPartsandstuff. When I bought it wasnt many bolt in options avaible. Great quality easy to install and great instructions.

 

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HRpartsNstuff "Your WWW performance parts supplier" On my car. Again at the time there were not many options. It has served me well.
Above the axle weld in would probably be a little more ridged but I run a full exhaust and the lower bar gives you room for that.
 
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I bought the UMI offering, it's easy enough to install although most likely best when welded to the housing. I've only made a couple passes with it but have some serious adjusting to do on the drivers behalf. While no hard launches yet with a 1.47 60' being best so far (2nd gear launch) I can say the car didn't twist up like it did prior to installing the bar. There is plenty room to jack up the differential in front of this ARB.
 
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