Team Chevelle banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings.

I have read different reviews of both the lakewood no hop bars and the Edelbrock anti-hop bars.

Which one do you prefer and why?

I have ordered a set of edelbrock from summit, but was disappointed when the left bar wouldn't work because the hole was drilled too far away from the rearend webbing. I returned that set and got another, and still the same issue. I reviewed the picture online and it shows a drilled hole that would work. My left mount's hole is drilled in the center of the distance width. I need the hole to be closer to the edge. Two defective ones? Whats the possibility?

I was thinking of trying out the Lakewood's version, but I am a little leary about the "cast" material versus the steel Edelbrock.

Whats your oppinion???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,884 Posts
i had a set of the cast no-hop bars on my 68-velle years ago. they did perform well, the wheel hop was eliminated and traction was increased alot by the torque of the engine trying to separate the axle from the body. the rear of the body would lift up on hard acceleration and since the rear of the car was heavy, this weight would transfer onto the rear-axle planting the tires. however the rear of the car would have violent banging when stomping thru the gears (manual-trans). the car would ride and handle nice although.

i took them off and replace them with a set of the SouthSideMachine Lift Bars and what a difference this made, no more banging, just massive traction from the weight transfer, the front wheels both have seen about 6" of light under them with this change on the hard launches. the bars are now made by lakewood i think.

dick miller (olds-cutlass guy) does have kits with his brand of no-hop bars also.

both systems work good by changing the geometry of the rear-axle linkage bars.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
515 Posts
I bought the Edelbrocks because they had the bushing for the UCA. Poly with a grease fitting. Planning to install in a couple of weeks. I will let you know if I run into the same mounting issue.

As Derek said, the Lakewoods have no bushing. Didn't seem right to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, I agree with you regarding the "no bushings" That doesn't seem right to me either.

The instructions state to "grind" the upper webbing if needed. I really wasn't too keen on that idea. If you grind the upper webbing so you can fit these more properly, it would change the angle of that mount.

Messh - Please let me know if you have any difficulties. I would like to see some pictures, if possible.

Anyone out there have a picture of their Edelbrock anti-hop bars with a closeup of the left mount where the supporting bolt goes through the webbing? I would like to know if Edelbrock incorrectly drill my left mount.

Thanks in advance!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
515 Posts
cews1968,

I went to install the Edelbrock no hops last week and they had packaged 2 left sides in the box. I called and Summit replaced them. Just got them today. Should get them installed in the next week.

I will take pictures. I was under the car and tried to 'size them up' and it seems like they will fit fine......I will let you know.

Mike
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,014 Posts
I have the cast No-Hops by Mr. Gasket. They have a thin plastic bushing between the top mounting bolt and the top mount on the no-hop bar. Fit and function has always been good. I used lock-tite on all the installation bolts sincee they will bang around if they come loose. I remember having to grind off a good bit of the fill plug to get the mounting bolt into the web.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
418 Posts
i have the cast ones on my car too. they've been on it for 9 or 10 years. i put them on without any modifications or tricks back when i was about 17. have had no problems. the car's @ss end will sometimes wander on the highway, but i don't have a sway bar, i think it will be better when i get one. this summer i'm gonna get a sway bar and boxed lower control arms.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,975 Posts
I put a pair of the Mr Gasket ones on my 71 Malibu back in the mid 80's and ran them without any problems for many years. They were "metal on metal" and I too thought that was a poor design but back then, I just wanted to stop my wheel hop so that small detail didn't worry me at the time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
515 Posts
cews1968

Finally finished installing the Edlbrock no hops....You were right. The drivers side had to be ground to fit into the rear end fin. But the worst thing is that when you add the no hops, they are closer that stock - by that I mean about 1 inch or more toward the front of the car. In order to put the stock UCA back on you have to twist the rear end back a lot.

So much that it pulls on the brake junction hose. Then if you do force them on, your pinion angle is way up - that inch or more makes a big difference. That's what all the guys were saying about angle....

So, I stopped and bought the Edlbrock adjustable uppers, installed them and now I can control the pinion angle. And I get the benefit of the no hop raising the UCA angle to drive the tires down instead of hopping. Also get a little more room around the exhaust pipes, no more rubbing I hope.

So - learning experience. Some grinding and drilling. Hope they work. I won't know until the motor is rebuilt in a month or so.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,884 Posts
when you hear a violent banging sound and don't find the driveshaft laying on the ground; it may be the top of the no-hop bars hitting the bottom of the floor pan. (makes dents)
a good solution to the fill plug problem is to use one of the aluminum rear covers that preload the rear diff. bearings, they have a fill plug and a drain plug, just watch how much lube you put in, as they will hold extra with the cover.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
i also have a problem on the drivers side..i do not have enough materil left in the web to drill the hole to center the anti hop bar allen head bolt like they state. i have UMI adjustables arms on top and edelbrocks for the anti hop bars...I was trying to see if i grind more material off the rear it would center? or i will look into buying another manufacture... hopefully somemore people will post on there results to this effect...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,842 Posts
The SSM style lower control arms work best at eliminating wheel hop in 4 speed cars IMHO and experience.
This depends on the ride-height of the car... stock or lowered cars will work better with the SSM style lower relocation, and lifted cars will work better with upper relocation brackets like Edelbrock's and Lakewoods.

SSM style on a lifted car will create BRAKE HOP which will really be a problem in a panic-stop situation.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top