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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have installed a new gauge cluster in a car that did not have a amp meter. The two brown wires coming off the meter need to connect to what?
I have been told a few differnt options.

Also, I am hooking up a AM radio. Any suggestions
on how to wire it? Two black wires, one orange, one yellow,one green.
 

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Assuming it's a factory or reproduction amp gauge. It connects to the horn relay and the junction block next to the battery. I recommend you use fusible links or fuses on each wire at or near the horn relay / J-block. You can run the wires through a hole in the firewall or add them to the bulkhead connector. If you run them through a hole in the firewall be sure to use a grommet.

If it's an aftermarket amp gauge I strongly recommend you not use it. Install a volt gauge instead. Wiring it causes more problems than it's worth and is a potential fire hazard.

If you're interested in prefabricated wiring with fusible links and the wire terminals for the bulkhead send me an e-mail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Elree

Thanks for your help,I still have one other question! one wire from the clip that connects to the cluster goes to the red wire on the horn relay, does that go right on the lug or does the amp gauge wire go between that wire? also, the other wire that goes the junction block is that + or -. I've been told an amp meter is a flow meter and needs to be POS to POS or NEG to NEG is this true??

Thanks for your help
Dennis

PS Steve radio woks great! thanks
 

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If it’s a factory or reproduction amp gauge the current doesn’t flow through it. Current is not measured directly. The gauge measures the difference in voltage potential at the horn relay and at the J-block. Higher voltage at the J-block means current is flowing out of the battery, higher voltage at the horn relay means current is flowing into the battery.

Yes there is a negative and positive. All I can say is after making the connections, turn on the headlights, if it indicates charge it’s backwards, swap the leads at the amp gauge.

If it’s an aftermarket amp gauge the current needs to flow through the gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Elree

I am looking for the junction block and think it must have been removed. What would be my next choice for that second connection?

Dennis
 

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The battery positive should have a wire that somehow ends up at the horn relay, (power feed). At the battery end there should be a fusible link. My suggestion is to connect the gauge wire to the fusible link/power feed junction. An alternative would be the battery positive.

Also in case you have an upgraded alternator such as a one wire. The alternator output needs to connect to the horn relay, not directly to the battery. If it connects to the battery the amp gauge will always indicate discharge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Elree

So close and yet so far away! All is hooked up. I spliced in to the pos side of the battery with one wire from the amp gauge and the other wire from the amp gauge is in top of the red lead lug of the horn relay. Problem, I have a lot of movement of the needle on the charge side of the amp meter. When I rev the motor the needle moves up and down like a techometer. I hope Its just a simple fix.What is your advice to minimize the movement of the needle??

Dennis
 

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Do you have anything connected directly to the battery, sound system, cooling fans,...? With the engine off and the headlights on does the gauge indicate a steady discharge?

What alternator do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Elree

I have nothing directly connected to the pos. side of the battery other then my splice to the amp gauge. Without the motor running, when I put on the lights it is a sligth discharge on the gauge.It looks like a direct link to the speed of the alternator.

Dennis
 

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I would check the output capacity and condition of the alternator and the condition of the battery. With a fully charged battery in good condition you should have little or no charging current.

Is it a new reproduction gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
elree

thanks for all your help. the battery just needed to come up to a full charge as you thought. next question, the original radio I installed has a antenna in the windshield and it gets very bad reception any ideas?

dennis
 

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Dennis

Glad the amp gauge is working correctly.

I had the same problem with radio reception. I assumed the windshield wasn't installed correctly and not making contact with the antenna leads. Without removing the windshield and checking the connections I don’t know what to do. I have an after market antenna plugged onto the radio and stuffed up under the dash that works for me.

Perhaps start a new post with that subject to get other input.
 

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Dennis,

In my Radio Tech pages, there is an entire section devoted to reception issues, did you "peak" the trimmer??? Try that first, than double check the integrity of the connections. It's not that hard to remove the stainless strip at the base of the windshield to gain access to the "pigtail" connector.

Joe


Radio Tech's Reception section:

Reception
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
JOE

Great call after 2 weeks of hell, tying to get good reception all it took was your advice and taking out 6 screws to remove that plate and find the the antenna pigtail was unpluged.GO JOE!!

Thanks Dennis
 
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