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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just put a new PCB on my 71 w/ gauges. Everything seems to be working so far. Except the AMP gauge is pointing @6:00. When I turn the ign. switch on it moves, so I believe it is working, just upside down. How can I get it to 12oclock or test to make sure it isn't fried.

The other problem I'm having is getting the dash lights to work. All but 3 lights surrounding the tach work and dim fine. I just can't seem to get these 3 to go. I measure 12v on the PCB at the sockets but no light. New bulbs and I cleaned the bulb sockets with small file.. Any Ideas?

thanks,

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Jody Sirmans
71 SS454
ACES
 

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Jody if you have voltage at the sockets the other half of that equation is the ground. Sounds like that part of the circuit is missing. With respect to the ammeter it sounds like a polarity problem altho I find that hard to believe with a PCB. Is the ammeter a new one or is it the one that was in the car before the PCB? If it was there before the PCB how did it read?
 

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Jody
Are these sockets the same as the ones that go to the idiot light car lighting circuit? The POS twist in kind? You need 4 or 5 used ones, just yell.
Yeah, as Bill says check the ground side of the flex crcuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
same sockets as idiot lights.. I will test for grounds. I guess the grounds are created by the 3-4 small screws that attach the PCB to the gauge housing... hehe.. I'll make sure they are all double tight.

Bill the amp gauge was restored by D&M it supposed to be OK....

The needle has pointed down ever since I hook ed the batt up the 1st time. Before and after the PCB replacement.


Jody
 

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I have seen this happen before to amp gauges. You will have to remove the gauge or the lens covering the gauge and manually move the needle back to 12 o'clock position.

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Steve Strasemeier (70SS 396, Fathom Blue/White Stripes)
My 70SS
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Steve S:
I have seen this happen before to amp gauges. You will have to remove the gauge or the lens covering the gauge and manually move the needle back to 12 o'clock position.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The same thing happened to mine on my 70 one day, all of a sudden it was working ok but was upside down

I did nothing and it corrected itself in a couple of days or so

I never could figure out why





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Dean Call
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
last night while I was sorting out the dome light problem.. I decided to mess with the dash lights as well.. I hooked my test light to the batt terminal on the fuse box and touched the PCB around the bad light. It came on.... Then I hooked the light to the frame bulb wouldn't burn but I got the test light to light... Is this a bad ground or bad power?
 

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Jody
Sorry you are not coming across 100% or it's just me. Think I understand this.

"I hooked my test light to the batt terminal on the fuse box and touched the PCB around the bad light. It came on...."

What came on? The test light or the "bad" light. I'm going to assume the "it" was the "bad" bulb because that is what you were trying to turn on. Also assume that the test light did not come on or was very dim during this test. If that occurred, you applied positive (+) to the "bad" lamp. This came from the batt terminal, through the test lamp filament, to the "bad" bulb.

"Then I hooked the light to the frame bulb wouldn't burn but I got the test light to light... "
When you touched the outside of the "bad" bulb, you provided a ground to the test lamp. I assume the other end of the test lamp was still tied to the batt terminal. Sounds like the "bad" bulb has a ground.

"Is this a bad ground or bad power?"
Sounds like you are missing 12 volts to the lamps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
John, the IT is the bad bulb.

When I placed the test light on the PCB after hooking the clip to the frame. I get the test light to light. So I think I have the 12v and the ground. Just not at the same time


I'm going to look for some extra bulb sockets tonight I've got stashed to see if I can't make this go away...
 
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