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Discussion Starter #1
Upon removing the original harnesses, Icarefully marked and prepped all the harnesses/wires/plugs, etc and it served me well during the reinstall. Of all the connections/wires, one marker was missing and I believe the following is true and the schematic seems to verify it. Just checking as this is no trivial wire:

At the harness, passenger side behind the headlight area, within the harness there is a heavy gauge red sticking out. It is the ONLY wire that is not connected at this point. Everything else found its' proper place. I assume this is the wire that I will splice into the aux wire at the battery + terminal and carries the power to the alternator. Yes, the wire that is connected to the terminal at the alternator is red and seems to be same gauge.
Correct, yes?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mike. Yes I have had that schematic.
 

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On a '67, there is a wire from the positive battery cable to a junction block on the radiator support. The red wire from the harness also attaches to the junction block. Not sure if that setup is the same on a '69.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Pat- Turns out there is a J-block on the 69 for that purpose, and the original is there. I had assembled items on the core support so many months ago that I forgot it was there until you mentioned it. Thanks for pointing it out.
 

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The main wire from the alt, red, goes across to the main splice near the horn relay. A seperate red wire goes from main splice to junction block near battery. Pigtail from batt positive lead is connected to a fusible link which is then connected to junction block.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nice car Hank. What rating fuse do you have?
 

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Nice car Hank. What rating fuse do you have?
These cars used fusible links, not fuses. The alt power wire and the wire from batt to junction block then to main splice where 10 gauge wire. A fusible link should be 2 sizes smaller, in this case, 14 gauge. You can buy it at most auto parts stores. A fusible link looks like a regular piece of wire but it's not. It will take a momentary direct short without blowing out, like if you just shorted something out with a wrench or screwdriver for a second. With a sustained short the wire inside will melt and open up the circuit but the insulation will not melt so no fire or other things shorting out.

Oh, and thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I got ya. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I believe my connections are correct. Red wire from Alt connects to the harness red wire. From there the wire goes to the J-Box. Other terminal of the J-Box goes to the aux wire on the + battery post with a fuse link. Problem is without the key even in the ignition, my GEN light is on. When I bring the key over to the ACC position the GEN light does go out.
Any idea what is keeping the GEN light on? It is acting like it is directly connected to the battery regardless of any ignition action. When I think of the connections described above, it is really, therefore it should be on which obviously it should not.
Per the schematics on this forum it appears a brown wire from the alternator regulator eventually makes its' way to the light. But again it seems like this connection method should keep the light on as it is getting direct unswitched power from the battery.
???
 
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