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Discussion Starter #1
Does it hurt anything if the #1 and #2 wire are both tied to the Batt terminal? Will this cause any adverse problems somewhere else?

The reason I ask is that my alternator does not put out enough with just the #2 connected to the Batt terminal. I have a very old meter and it only has a 10 volt range and a 50 volt range, so I have to set it on the 50 volt range. When I checked the voltage level it looks like I am getting just above 10 volts. Maby 11. It's hard to tell. When I tie both #1 and #2 back to the batt terminal it looks like I am getting about 14 volts. Currently I have the batt terminal going direct to the + side of the battery. The old external regulater is completly disconnected.

Thanks in advance,
Billy
 

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Discussion Starter #2
ttt
 

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Discussion Starter #3
?Anybody?
 

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Sure is lonely in here. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ttt

This is depressing.

I don't know enough about electrical to diagnose my problem. I read every post I could find relating to alternators before I posted my question.

I've got the car running after a year. Now I'm afraid to drive it for fear of burning something up.

I'm ready to give up

Billy
 

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What car? External or internal regulator? If you don't know then are the plug terminals like this || or like this -- ?

It sounds like you may have an external regulator and your connecting the field directly to the battery which will not work. It would need a regulator installed or change to an internal regulated alternator.

You really need to get a digital meter to properly troubleshoot this stuff. An analog meter is not accurate enough on a 50V scale. You have to be able to read the difference between say 12.5V and 14V on the meter for it to be any use. You have to be able to read between 14.2V and 15V which is the difference between ideal charging and overcharging.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Peter, thank you for responding to my question. I am getting pretty frustrated with my car at this point, but I have taken a deep breath and stepped away. Now I feel better.

First, I aquired the use of a digital meter.

Second, the car is a 70 with factory air conditioning. The air conditioner is not installed and I have no immediate plans to do so. (Read in some of the other posts that this made a difference)

Third, there was origionally an external regulator. That has been replaced with an internal regulated alternator. This alternator came on the motor I bought for the car last year. I bought the car with no motor and most of the wires under the hood are either missing or butchered.

I started by trying to hook up the alternator described in the techref14. When I did that the alternator did not seem to be doing anything. At that point I decided to bypass the regulater. I ran a wire directly to the battery(+) post and connected it to the Batt lug on the back of the alternator . I also ran an additional wire to terminal #2 from the battery lug. When I cranked up I was only getting about 11 volts measured between the Batt terminal and the(-) battery post. I thought at this point that maby I had it backwards and I connected terminal #1 to the Batt terminal. No change.(Let me clarify by saying that neither #1 or #2 is connected to anything)

What I did find was that when both #1 and #2 were connected to the Batt terminal, the alternator pulled the motor down considerably. I threw the meter on it and it was putting out 14.69 volts. Based on what I have read by researching about 300 post's over the last couple of weeks, 14.69 looked pretty good to me.

The problem is I also read some posts where you could over charge the battery or fry some wiring if you were not careful. That is what prompted my first question as #1 connector should be hooked up to the idiot light in the dash. If this will not work I want to change it before I burn it up.

Second problem just came up today. The battery was totally dead this morning. I charged it up with the charger to around 13.5 volts and as soon as I took the charger off the voltage started dropping. As my car has no radio or anything else that would cause a power drain of this size I knew there had to be something else going on here.

I remembered reading a post where John M suggested removing the negative cable from the battery and putting a test light between the cable end and the (-) battery post. When I did this the light came on. Before I started pulling fuses I decided to undo the alternator wiring. The second that I removed #1 the light went out. The #2 is still connected to the Batt terminal.

Now, where do I go from here? Your help is really appreciated.

Thanks,
Billy
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Correction to my previous post. The Battery drain is coming from having terminal #2 connected to the Batt lug on the back of the alternator. #1 has no affect.

The drain is about .01 every 5 seconds if that helps.

Billy
 

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If you connect the #2 terminal by itself to the battery and get a drain then the regulator inside the alternator is bad. Connecting and leaving the #1 terminal connected to the battery probably fried it.

The #1 terminal needs to have some resistance between it and the battery. It can't be connected directly and it needs to be disconnected when the engine is off. The current flow from this light connection lets the alternator start when the engine is started. Usually a rev to 2500rpm's or so will also work if the light isn't connected. You can use a troublelight to "jump start" the alternator.

There is actually a resistor connected in parallel with the light to help the alternator by providing some extra current. It also serves as a back-up to the light in case it burns out. I believe you could use a 50 ohms, 5 watt resistor.

If you followed the tech reference from the beginning then the alternator could have been junk when you got it.

Peter
 

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Do not disconnect the battery cable while the engine is running! This will fry a newer car and there are better ways to test and older car. Feel free to email me if you have unanswered questions.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks again for the help guys.

Peter, I did follow the techref to the letter in the very begining. So I have to assume the alternator was bad from the begining. Is the internal regulator something that I can repair? Being that it is junk anyway, I wouldn't mind trying. If it cannot I will just pick up another.

Mark, I never disconnected the battery while the car was running. I had read in some of the archives that this was a no no. Actually I learned a lot from this experiance. It caused me to do a lot of digging, and thru that maby my electronic skills improved a little. They certainly needed it as this is my weakest area.

Two more questions.
First, how do you check the amperage output of an alternator with a digital volt meter.

Second, my next project is to swap the dash out for a guage dash. Origionally it had the old sweep dash with A/C. I bought a guage dash and harness from a 72 with A/C before I knew that there were significant differences between the 70/71 and the 72. Where can I go to find out which connectors have to be changed around to use the 72 harness. I know that the easy thing to do would be to buy another harness but I cannot do that right now as I am not working. I have read in the archives that it could be done but did not find where anyone actually described how to do it.

Thanks again for your help. I would never have made it this far without the help of guys like you. I am sooo close to being finished I can taste it. I am anxious to do more than just crank up in the garage and listen to that big 454.

Billy
 

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If you are careful taking it apart it can be rebuilt. You should be able to get a regulator/rebuild kit from your favorite parts store. They may not have one in stock but they could get it.

Here's a hint for you. There are brushes inside that pop out of their holders. Get a straightened paper clip. When you push the brushes back in, you should see holes through the holder assembly that you can stick the paper clip into from the back. Put it together and then pull out the paper clip.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Peter. I appreciate your Help.

Billy
 

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In order to measure amperage from the alternator with a Digital meter, you would have to buy a high amp probe. DMMs mostly only read up to 10 amps. Otherwise you would be better off using a VAT to see the amps.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, LYTEMUP. I figured it was not as simple as I was hoping.

Anyone want to tackle the wiring harness question? I am sure that all have seen my proficiency (or lack of it) by the nature of my questions concerning electrical. But what the heck. I've got nothing to lose and I might just get a little smarter, with some help.

Thanks everyone,

Billy
 
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