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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I converted to the SI alternator and I think I have an extra wire. From the old mess near the external voltage regulator. I have the brown wire (now white for #1 on alternator) and two red primaries. One that goes to the junction box in front of battery and the other I made to go to the alternator, but the one that goes to the alternator should come from the battery which also connects to the junction box? RIGHT?
 

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If you use the junction block and have a primary wire from the battery to it, it's a constant hot and you can connect any constant hot item to it...including the alternator. The idea of the junction block is to connect multiple things to it instead of trying to cram them all on the positive post on the battery.

Are you sure the 2nd red wire from the regulator side isn't coming from the horn relay? That wire is always hot as well and can connect to the junction block.

I currently have 4 wires on my junction block.
1. positive lead from the battery
2. single alternator wire
3. horn relay wire
4. a feeder wire for a Painless wiring Cirkit block.

BTW, if anyone needs more always hot and ign hot posts, this is a super deal. Not an ad for them but it uses one hot wire from the battery (with included circuit breaker for insurance) and one ign hot wire from the fuze box. Hot wire energizes a relay to power the unit. Mine has 3 fuzed always hot connections and 4 fuzed ignition hot connections. Sure beats plugging everyting into the fuze box under the dash!

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TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67 SS & 67 Elky
GR8PMKN

Dale's Place Team 67
Midwest Chevelle Regional Governing Council
Integrity: If you have it, it doesn't matter - If you don't have it, it doesn't matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Coppertop:
I got a bit confused by your post, sorry, just can't quite picture what you're trying to say. Did you follow the info in Wes's Alternator info ?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I confused myself writing that. Dale was right. One red goes from the horn relay to the junction box. From the Junction box, I plan to run the red to the battery and from the battery to the alternator. That one wire from the horn relay should handle it.

The other wire is hot and comes from the mess below the horn relay where there used to be two or three red wires soldered together. It's always hot to. In studying WES's instructions. the number two wire on the alternator goes to the battery stud on the alternator and also a primary from the battery goes to that stud. I think I just have an extra wire.
 

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This is what I can make from this confusion. At the old regulator, the red and white wires get taped off, the blue and brown get spliced together. The blue wire runs through the harness gets connected to the "L" terminal of the alternator. The "S" wire on the alternator gets connected to the "BAT" terminal on the alternator. There is a fat red wire that runs from the horn relay to the alternator, that gets connected to the "BAT" terminal too. There is a wire that runs from the horn relay to the junction block. That is the charging wire from the alternator to the battery. If you have gauges, the ammeter will not work properly if you connect the alternator directly to the battery without that jump from the horn relay. The battery connects to the junction block.
All of the accessories and the "BAT" wire from the alternator should be connected to the horn relay. If you have fans or other high consumption accessories, they should be connected to the horn relay, and you might want to upgrade the wire from the relay to the alternator to an 8 gauge wire, or just add another 12 gauge wire from the alternator to the horn relay. I just finished this swap on my 65 and once it is wired right, it works great.

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65 Danube Blue MALIBU 4 door wagon, 350/330hp crate with GM Performance Parts serpentine belt system, 700R4, factory air with Vintage Air conversion, factory am/fm stereo, tilt wheel.

[This message has been edited by JimN (edited 10-09-2002).]
 
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