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    • Alternator conversion

      • Authored by Wes Vann, Major rework on September3, 2001.

        I've added photos showing the installation of a CS130 on both a shortwater pump small block and also an installation of a CD130 on a long water pumpsmall block.

        This new version of the pagetakes a long time to download. It's due to all the photos. Almost all of thephotos are "clickable" to a larger version.


        PLEASE NOTE; Always disconnect the battery when doing electrical workon your car!

        What I'm going to try to cover is the conversion from an external regulatoralternator to a "SI" internal regulator alternator.In the latter part of the page, I'll cover changing over to a new "CS"alternator.

        I first did the "SI" conversion on my 64 Chevelle using anold alternator that I had around the garage. The bracket configurationis similar to what is in a 69 Camaro (long water pump and the alternatormounted on the shotgun side of the engine).

        After the car was on the road for a while, the alternator started actingstrange and the voltage output wasn't constant. That gave me a perfectreason to do the conversion to the new style "CS" alternator!There wasn't any problem with the wiring changes, it was just that the"SI" had seen it's years.

        I have to add a word of caution here, the colors of the wires calledout are the "standard" colors and I can't swear that your car'swiring loom matches. Please blame GM and not me!

        When you convert from the external regulator alternator, you no longerneed the regulator that is mounted on the radiator support. You also don'tneed some of the wiring that is present in the loom.

        The diagram below shows the original connection at the old regulator.(I'm sorry, but the wire that is colored yellow, is really white)

          • tr14aa.gif

        The next diagram shows how you modify the loom at this location.


        Notice that the blue wire is jumpered to the brown wire. The white wireand the orange wire are just capped off so that they will not short outto anything.

        This next diagram shows what you have to do at the new alternator.


        The wire that goes from the "BATT" terminal to the #2 terminalis a new wire that you will have to add. You can use a 14 gauge wire.

        The white wire (shown yellow) just gets capped off.

        You will need a new connector to fit the new alternator and they canbe purchased at almost any auto parts shop.

        Due to my being bothered by the "extra" wire being in theloom, I totally removed the dead white and orange wires. I also wired thebrown wire to the alternator directly. It just gets rid of some extra lengthof wire.

        The prior paragraph has caused me a lot of e-mailfeed back and hopefully the following information will clear it up. Inmy final wiring configuration, the "brown wire" comes from thealternator indicator light, through the firewall connector, and directlyto the alternator. The result is electrically the same as the diagram atthe top of the sheet, just cleaner. The diagram above would have the brownwire coming out of the connector at the firewall, going toward where theregulator was, connecting to the blue wire, then the blue wire goes tothe alternator. As I said, I cleaned up the wiring (and in the process,dirtied up the wording).

        In order to ensure good connections, I recommend that you alwayssolder the connections and then use heat shrink tubing to seal it.

        General information on "CS130" alternators;

        The one I used (and what I recommend) is the 105 amp version due to it'sphysical size being similar to the original alternator. As a result, you can usemore commonly available brackets. The typical SI alternator is only good for 63amps and that is at a higher RPM than what the CS's need. In other words, atidle, the CS is putting out, where as the SI is just spinning.

        All of the CS alternators come with serpentine belt pulleys! You will have toswap on a stock V-belt pulley and fan.

        The flange for the tensioning bolt is tapped for a metric bolt. Thebolt is 8mm and the thread pitch is 1.25 mm. You have to make sure thatyou get the correct pitch due to 8mm with 1.00mm pitch also being realcommon. Now you have to get one of those dang metric 13mm wrenches.

        Most of the connectors for the "CS" alternators are four wire.Don't worry!! You will only use two of them and the wiring is the sameas the "SI" above!

        In doing research for the update, I went to Autozone to get part numbers anda "source" car. That's not to say that the same alternator isn't onanother car, it just means that I'm not willing to spend the time researching acomplete source guide! The part numbers listed are for alternators made by"Duralast".

        The breakdown of the numbers may help you out, if in a pinch!

        If we break down the code "DLG1345-6-7"; The "5" is thebracket flange attachments. The "6" is the groove count of the pulley.Now this really doesn't matter due to the fact that we are going to have toreplace the pulley!!!! The "7" is the phasing of the back cover. Youcan always remove the three bolts and rotate the rear body if you have to!!!!

        On the connector that I got, there were four wires and the body of theconnector had identification letters. Here are the id letters and the colorwires (don't count on the colors to be the same as what you get).

        "S", this was a heavy gauge, red wire.

        "F", this was a small gauge, brown wire.

        "L", this was a small gauge, brown/red wire.

        "P", this was a small gauge, brown/white wire.

        The red wire from "S" gets connected back to the output terminalof the alternator just like in the "SI" swap.

        The brown/red wire from "L" gets connected to what is shownin the diagram above as the blue wire. It's this wire that comes (indirectly)from the idiot light and it energizes the alternator.

        The wires from "F" and "P" are not used!

        As an additional note; AC Delco sells a "conversion" wiringloom if you are changing from a "SI" to a "CS" andit is nothing but a few short wires and two connectors. One connector plugsinto the existing wiring loom connector that was plugged into the "SI".The other new connector plugs into the "CS". What's real importantto note is that there are two different types. One is "non-resistor"and the other has a resistance in it. You want the "non-resistor"one if you are going to keep the idiot light. Use the "resistor"one if you are getting rid of the idiot light. Be sure to read the "notes"section of this page before jumping!!

        CS130 on a small block with "short" water pump;

        Thissection covers the installation that Carl Casanova did on his 68 Camaro. Thephotos and almost all of the information is from him. (I did some changing ofthe "brightness on some of the photos.) His web site can be found at "".


        Thesetwo photos (all photos at this point will be "clickable") show thealternator that Carl used. It's a Duralast "DLG1345-6-7" (available atAutozone) and if you say that you have a 91 C1500 Chevy truck with 350 TBIengine and AC, this is what you would get. The Duralast catalog lists theflanges as being at "2:00" and "6:00".

        Carl swapped on a"deep V" pulley from a Z-28.


        Here are photos showing the alternator mounted. The lower bracket is G.M. partnumber 14015510 and the upper is G.M. part number 460755. The upper bracketrequired modification (I've got to get the specifics). The lower bracket boltsto the head and this requires that you have heads with the accessory attachmentholes.

        The final three photos show the finished installation in the car.


        On a personal note; I really like this installation due to it'skeeping with the "vintage road racer" look. (read that as no-billet)About the only thing I'd do would be to rotate the alternators rear cover sothat the plastic cover plate is downward. Now isn't that picky!!

        CS130 on a small block with a "long" water pump;

        This section covers what I did on my 64 Chevelle.

        I picked up my alternatorfrom a local rebuilder however, the Autozone part number for it is DLG1346-5-11.It may be embarrassing, but if you tell them that you have a1988 Olds Firenza2.0L engine with EFI and AC, you will get the correct one. (I wish I could tellyou that it's for something exciting!!)

        I had the alternator on my car foraround 2 years and the bearings went out on it. When I talked to the rebuilder,the first thing that he asked was if I had the rear support on it. I had to sayno. So, this section also goes into the fabrication of the rear support that Inow have.


        Thesetwo photos show the alternator that I used. Notice that the mounting flanges aredirectly across from one another. The Duralast catalog (at Autozone) lists theflanges as at; "6:00" and "12:00".


        AsI recall, I got this upper bracket from a 69 Camaro. The photo where I'mpointing to a hole shows where I had to lengthen the bracket. I don't know ifthis was required as a result of changing over to the Edelbrock manifold or not.The hole in question is for a stud that goes on the thermostat housing.


        Inthe first photo above, you can see the lower bracket and spacer. The long boltgoes through the bracket, through the alternator, through the spacer, and theninto the head. It's the pivot point for adjusting the belt tension. What israther hard to see is that there is a flange and bolt hole on the spacer thatwould go into the rear of the original alternator.

        In the second photo, I'mpointing at the bolt hole in the alternator that I want to adapt the spacer tobolt to.


        Inthe photo on the left (above) you can see that I cut off the flange on theoriginal spacer. I made up a piece of flat steel to go from the bolt to thespacer.

        Now you might get a laugh out of this. I have both a MIG and gaswelder set-ups. I didn't want to use the MIG for tack welding the revisedbracket together for fear of smoking the diodes inside the alternator. So, Iused the gas welder. Well, it doesn't take much heat to start melting thatplastic back cover!! No damage was done, it just doesn't look like new anylonger.

        The photo on the right shows the finished bracket after painting.

        Thefinal three photos were in reality shot prior to making the support piece shownabove.


      • NOTES;

        Why go through the trouble? Well, the "SI" alternatorsare easier to get and have a higher out-put. The"CS" alternators are even better!

        What about those "single wire" alternators? From whatI have heard from some very knowledgeable people, they tend to overheat and are not as durable. I also would question if the alternator lightwould function. Hey, it may be called an "idiot" light, but I'drather it warn me about a problem then sit at the side of the road crying.While in an automotive electrical rebuild shop buyingmy new CS, the man said that the one wires really didn't have any overheatingproblems. So, I really don't know who to believe. He also said that it'spossible to make up a "single wire" CS alternator.

        And what about the idiot light? Well, the electricity that goesto energize the alternator (through the brown wire) comes from the idiotlight. This leads to an interesting tid-bit, the alternator needs to seesome resistance in this line. That resistance is the bulb! If you try tobe "custom" and use a LED, there isn't the correct resistanceand the alternator will not work correctly! You can't just by-passthe light!

        Why can't I turn off my engine? You wired up the alternator wrong!Hey, it's only two small wires but you can swap them. What happens is thatthe output of the alternator feeds it's self and even though you turnedoff the ignition, as long as the alternator is spinning, it feeds the carand keeps running.




2,466 Posts
94 ampere Citation/J2000/J6000 12SI alternator is easier to use, and less prone to failures, problems, and wires up as easy as shown on one diagram above. 12SI is shown on the left. The 12SI alternators can easily be "re-clocked" to 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 positions for alternate mounting brackets.



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