[Stewey956]

Looking into purchasing a new alternator but after reading my original plans have changed

I planned on purchasing a 110amp one wire but after doing a little reading I find some people dislike the one-wire? Why is that?

I also plan on going to a 140amp as I have an electric fan and plan to go install 2 12s with a 1000+ watt amp.

A new battery is also on the list

Can somebody help me pick the perfect alternator for my situation?

 

[turbodave]

I have no complains with my Powermaster 100 Amp One-Wire. It much cleaner looking install and keeps the voltage up at idle even with everything running, Headlights, Dual Spal electric fans,wipers, radio and amps, and when it's cold heater on full blast. It's this one here:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-17295

 

[Coppertop]

Here are factual reasons the 1-wire system is not as good as regular traditional built OEM alternators.

-No external excitation wire. No guarantee of initial charging even when "revved"
-No external sense ability. You can have a 300 amp alternator and as long as it "sees" it's own output lug as having the right voltage, it thinks everyone is happy even while due to normal or even accidental voltage drops in the system, your interior, headlights etc, may only be receiving 12 volts if that.
-They drain batteries. Keep your battery hooked up and if the car sits long enough, forget about it starting on its own. It's due to the internal regulator configuration.
-No provision for a warning lamp. Voltmeters can "lie" depending on where/how they are wired.

One wires should never have left the farm implementation world from which they were spawned from. Farmers knew about maintaining equipment, the necessity of revving to initiate charging and checking the health of electrical systems, especially on seasonal equipment, but someone brilliant said "Damn, what a clean install, that would work on a car."

I know I'll get flamed on this, but the one thing no one will ever be able to argue with me on is if it truly is a "great" system, why has no auto manufacturer installed one at the factory even though they would have saved 10's of millions $ with so much less hardware and wiring?!

 

[Stewey956]

That is what I was looking for! Real hard factual proof of pros and cons. After reading all that I will be staying with the traditional style setup.

Are there any preferences on brands?

 

[VinceS427bb]

That is what I was looking for! Real hard factual proof of pros and cons. After reading all that I will be staying with the traditional style setup.

Are there any preferences on brands?

are you going to upgrade your wiring,
are you going to use an internal or external regulator type.
with the amperage over 65-amps you will want to us upgraded wiring and an external reg...
do you want a shiney-chrome unit or is a factory casting sufficient?

 

[novaderrik]

bet a CS130 alternator for a 90's Caprice cop car from the junkyard and have it upgraded to 200 amps at your friendly local neighborhood alternator rebuilder.. they'll also be able to tell you how to wire it up, which is actually pretty easy..

 

[CoolBlueGlow]

+1 on Joe's position...

Besides what Joe mentioned, there is the inconvenience of regulator failure repair. On an external regulated system, if something quits charging, you can pop a replacement regulator on your firewall in a matter of moments as a "first test" for what is wrong. No need to drop belts, find a spare alternator, etc. only a nut driver and the spare regulator. There is no advantage to the end user gained by burying that regulator deep in the alternator. it is harder to get to, runs hotter, and cannot be easily field checked with a parts swap.

Heck, you can carry the few parts required to rebuild a typical ex-reg'd Delcotron in a cigar box stuck in the trunk. A diode trio, a spare regulator, maybe a bearing set, and some brushes. (Having a realistic field repair option sure beats sitting in the dark out sixty miles north of nowhere - at 11:00 at night...but then I'm old school.)

When a one-wire fails, or just starts giving you the mystery charging weakness, well you're dropping belts, breaking out the big wrenches, and you are ALWAYS left wondering...as in "was it the alternator or the regulator than went bad?"

Call me a Luddite, but I'm sticking with an externally regulated Delcotron, and Yes, I have a rack of big power hungry stereo amps to power my tri-amplified stereo with that big obnoxious subwoofer.

Just my opinion

 

[Stewey956]

:yes:

are you going to upgrade your wiring,
are you going to use an internal or external regulator type.
with the amperage over 65-amps you will want to us upgraded wiring and an external reg...
do you want a shiney-chrome unit or is a factory casting sufficient?

Yes whatever it takes. I planned to go to a 6 gauge wire would that suffice a 140amp? I have no experience with alternator regulators can you break that down? Do I choose between an externally regulated or internal regulated when purchasing or is this something I add on?

+1 on Joe's position...

Besides what Joe mentioned, there is the inconvenience of regulator failure repair. On an external regulated system, if something quits charging, you can pop a replacement regulator on your firewall in a matter of moments as a "first test" for what is wrong. No need to drop belts, find a spare alternator, etc. only a nut driver and the spare regulator. There is no advantage to the end user gained by burying that regulator deep in the alternator. it is harder to get to, runs hotter, and cannot be easily field checked with a parts swap.

Heck, you can carry the few parts required to rebuild a typical ex-reg'd Delcotron in a cigar box stuck in the trunk. A diode trio, a spare regulator, maybe a bearing set, and some brushes. (Having a realistic field repair option sure beats sitting in the dark out sixty miles north of nowhere - at 11:00 at night...but then I'm old school.)

When a one-wire fails, or just starts giving you the mystery charging weakness, well you're dropping belts, breaking out the big wrenches, and you are ALWAYS left wondering...as in "was it the alternator or the regulator than went bad?"

Call me a Luddite, but I'm sticking with an externally regulated Delcotron, and Yes, I have a rack of big power hungry stereo amps to power my tri-amplified stereo with that big obnoxious subwoofer.

Just my opinion

I like the way you think! And being prepared is what I always want to be seeing as how this is my daily driver and I want to be able to go through traffic and the sort without worrying too much

 

[VinceS427bb]

what you think you need for your application vs what is really needed may differ alot.
do you need 140A or 200A alt?
or will a factory 98Amp unit do everything you are asking it to?
first you will be running:
electric fans?
electric water pump?
1 or more stereo amps? how many/how big??

i was able to run a 98Amp factory unit with internal reg.
this required some mods to the factory harness for safety...
but it works good every time i use it for years now, i got the rebuilt 98A alt at NAPA for like $75...

i got rid of the external[mech] regulator for the internal 98A 3-wire unit
i figure if this was a factory upgrade, and the cars are now going 100-250k miles without many issues,
it will be more than good enough for me.

 

[Stewey956]

One single electric fan for sure. Considering a radiator and fan upgrade because my car cannot stand the traffic in Texas hear limiting my daily driver. So I want something I can upgrade on.

Didn't even know about 200a alts, 140 is plenty for me

Mechanical water and fuel pump. 2 12" subs off of a 1000+ watt amp

 

[Coppertop]

For something that high in current rating, (100+ amps) your choices will be limited to internal regulated alternators. That's just the nature of the newer technology. Nothing wrong with it, that's just what will be available.

Try to get the highest "factory rated" alternator you can find that fits the demands of your system. In other words, if you know you'll be pulling at least 115 amps, then try to find a 140 amp alternator. There are some issues with some places that say "Hey we can take your factory 102 amp alternator and turn it into 200 amp output". The problem is the case and frame design are not meant to provide cooling for 200 amps. They don't tell you that.

As stated above a good Auto Electric shop can tell you the limits of what can be safely upgraded or not if you want to use a factory style 'core'.

You can also buy new factory stuff (can get expensive if going thru a dealership) or new aftermarket, like Powermaster if they have a true "sensing" alternator in your application.

Here's a VERY GOOD link that will tell you everything you didn't want to know but has some great reference links on models and makes. It's takes some scrolling, but it should be covered.

http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Alternator_Bible/index.html

 

[Stewey956]

Opinions on Tuff Stuff Alternators? It says one-wire capable, does this mean I can still use the traditional setup?

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7140abull

 

[Finally]

Opinions on Tuff Stuff Alternators? It says one-wire capable, does this mean I can still use the traditional setup?

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7140abull

Looks to be a true 1 wire, not just 1 wire capable.

 

[Stewey956]

I am having a tough time locating a 3 wire 140amp alternator. Anybody know a good source? It doesn't HAVE to be chrome saving money is a good thing I suppose

I've only checked summit and jegs

 

[overdriv]

10 Si

CS130

Both 3-wire

 

[Finally]

Here's one with a v belt pulley.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mci-n7294-9ho/overview/make/chevrolet

 

[Stewey956]

Guess I forgot to mention I need it for a V belt setup. I've only had te chance to look on my phone so it's a little more difficult. Can't find a vbelt 140amp 3 wire alternator

 

[Stewey956]

Should've refreshed the page Thanks Finally will consider that one an option. Any comment on the maker?

 

[steveeaz]

I have purchased a couple of high amp alternators from a company call DB Electrical. Have had pretty good luck with them. I think they have what you are looking for.

www.db-starter-alternator.com

 

[Robinls5]

My 70 driver has, Fac. A/C,, AM/FM,,Halogen Head lights,,Head lights are on relays,,Electronic Servo Cruise control,,H.E.I. Ign.,,Tach.,,My Alt. is the 61 amp. unit that came with the 307 and Fact. A/C. The Alt is 43 years old and still working. Good luck with your choice.
Bob