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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 70 Chevelle has picked up a few minor problems since I have had the front end off.

The Alt is not charging. 12.1 at the bat. at idle, and 11.5 v when I turn the headlights on. I had it tested last year, when I though I corrected this problem with new regulator.

Recently I was asked what year alt. do I have, and maybe I should have a matching external regulator.

Ok, I plan to run the alt back by the "Zone" to get it tested/replaced. The Alt is externally regulated and not a 1 wire alt. but don't know much more than that.

Are the external regulators all the same for these externally regulated systems?

If I have to replace it, and I go with a newer style, what year do I ask for? Assuming I get an internal regulated model and ditch the external regulator?

?????????
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
 

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Have them test it first, DG, then go from there. 78 Camaro is one choice but need to update the wiring just a little. Figure out which direction you want to go and post back. Your external regulator will also do the job if that's the way you want to stay. Have an extra internally regulated alternator off a Cady but you aren't coming here so can't give it to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
"Them" John? I thought the regulators were a"just replace it" item.

I have not had time to lug the alt. out yet.

I'll keep you posted.

Oh, SIGGRAPH at the Staples Center in LA is this week, so I COULD have been there right now!

I would have dropped by memory land for a core support and the valence panel I need too.

My manager felt it best served to send a non-tech wiennie this year!
DG
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
John,
Took the alt. to the "Zone". It's putting out 15 v under load. I picked up a new regulator while I was there, just because. I also bought a new plug for the alt.

So now I gotta check some wires. I could have sworn I did not get anything out of the heavy + lead on the alternator at idle.

I'm gonna replace that wire/lug too and start chasing the other wires in the charge circuit. Keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
John,
I recently replaced some of the cobbled wires going to my HEI with a new wire from the engine side wiring harness, coming from the same lug where the resistor wire was.

We did have a whiteish (could have been yellow) wire that was not connected to anything but the soleniod.

I cut this loose wire off. (is this my problem)?

Does Peters troubleshooting assume stock coil and resistance wire?

Like I said, I have a GM HEI unit, but I still retain the external voltage reg. and the external alt.

I also have a #10 wire coming from the engine harness that would reach the horn relay or the AC relay. From the wiring diagram my blower motor is already connected. What is this wire?

DG
DG

Is this wire needed if you have HEI?
I basically
 

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"We did have a whiteish (could have been yellow) wire that was not connected to anything but the soleniod.

I cut this loose wire off. (is this my problem)?"

Nope. Wire's only purpose is to provide a full 12 volts to a stock coil while cranking.

"Does Peters troubleshooting assume stock coil and resistance wire?"

The alternator/regulator doesn't have anything to do with the distributor/coil.

"Like I said, I have a GM HEI unit, but I still retain the external voltage reg. and the external alt."

OK, but these are unrelated items.

"I also have a #10 wire coming from the engine harness that would reach the horn relay or the AC relay. From the wiring diagram my blower motor is already connected. What is this wire?"

This an A/C car? If so it sounds like the wire for the A/C high position power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
John,

I honestly started to follow the troubleshooting method you referenced. But the Electronic Field Engineer in me just couldn't leave marginal stuff alone. Maybe I have been watching too much Monster Garage, because I kept hearing, "That ain't gonna work" as I looked over the wire connections and made some voltage checks.

So, I broke out the soldering iron, rounded up some 10 red gauge wire, terminals and crimp connectors and had at it.

Here is the skinny on what I fixed & found.

</font>
  • The + wires from the + bat to the block on the rad. core were replaced, and terminals soldered
    after crimping. I wire brushed the other terminal at the block as well for a solid connection.</font>
  • I replaced the 2 wire Alt. plug (NAPA) and the + Alt. terminal.</font>
  • Resoldered a T3 lamp connector, which saved that bulb from the trash can (I only have 2 T3's left, not that I am one of those "gotta be original" guys, I just maximize the life of the part)</font>
  • Jumped to the drivers side & noticed some wonky connections on the horn relay. Replaced & recrimped and soldered these up and wire brushed it before reassembly.</font>
  • This is where I noticed the red wire (fuse-able link) from the regulator plug was broke, not burnt, just broke right at the junction where it meets the 10 gauge wire (It was green and obviously corroded).</font>
  • Use a new style fuse-able link, me? Heck No! I salvaged the same fuseable link from a junk 70 harness, which has given up several wires, connectors & plugs (best $5 I ever spent) in the past.</font>
  • Removed the fuse-able link terminal from the donor regulator plug, wire brushed it, and crimped & soldered the 10 gauge end into my harness.</font>
  • Started the car, and no change.... :mad:</font>
  • Or so I thought, I had voltage, but it wasn't getting to the regulator.</font>
  • Put the new regulator on, and....GEN light OFF!!! 14 v at the battery, IT's CHARGING</font>
Ok, so it wasn't as exciting as it sounds, but now it's one less thing.....I will pick up a new core support next week.. oh, I didn't tell you about that......... ;)

Thanks John.

DG
 
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