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Discussion Starter #1
I just got a new harness from M&H.. it has the int. reg alternator mod wired in. What alt should I get for this setup.. Also I have the stock gauges what will work with my stock amp gauge +-40... TIA



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Jody Sirmans
71 SS454
ACES
 

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I put up a post in Performance about a 94 amp alternator that costs the same as a 45amp alternator does. Luckely a good bit of the GM alternators swap.

What all is on your car that wasn't stock? Something that might put you in a higher power draw bracket.

i.e.
I run an electronic pump
Fan
stereo and amp
and my blower motor only works on high


So I need it all.

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71' 3880# with me. Big Block 402, TH400, 3.73 posi,
13.1sec @ 105 MPH (poor 2.1 sixty foot and rookie tuning)
--will be racing at Chevellebration 2001!--
Picture of me roasting the tires and other guy stuff
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Discussion Starter #3
Nothing added to the car! It is about 95% restored correctly.. I changed the harness to accept the int. reg. alt just to avoid future hassles mainly. I am just worried about the alt blowing out the amp gauge mainly. I started thinking ( after the fact, as usual) what would happen when I put the new alt on and most of the newer alts being high amps 60+ and my amp gauge reads 40.. or does it matter at all.. since all it can do in my car is run the lights, dash,, no AC or nothing on this car...I should never see 40 even..

just an electrical dumbass on this end.. If I can't plug and play.. it isn't going to work.

 

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Jody;

You have to ask M&H what it's wired for if you want it to just plug in. The plugs are different depending on if it's for a CS or SI alternator. It's not a big thing to change the plug.

Go to the Technical Reference section of this site for additional information on alternators.

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Wes. Vann
Technical Reference section
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Your question about your gage isn't dumb. It doesn't make a difference how big an alternator you put in. It's capability to put out more current (amps) won't affect your gage reading. What your car was drawing before should be about the same after the swap. Same principle as putting in a larger battery.
 

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The factory installed amp gauge indicates the amount of current flowing to or from the battery, not the current being generated by the alternator. If your alternator and battery are both in good shape you will not see current flowing into or out of the battery, the alternator is supplying the needs of the electrical system. It is normal to see charging after starting but shouldn’t take more then a few minuets to recharge the battery. If the alternator is not meeting the system demand you will see current flowing out of the battery (discharging). If the battery is weak you will see constant charging. Furthermore the Amp rating of an alternator is how much it can generate. It will only generate the current needed by the load. If nothing is on it will be supplying only a few amps, however if you have the bright lights on, the AC on high, the 200 watt stereo blasting, and the electric fan running the alternator will be generation 50- 60 amps whatever the demand is. The amp gauge will see little or no current flow in either case.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys... The M&H is wired for a CS alt. they don't like the SI units for some reason
Hey I just had to pass a couple of electrical courses years ago.. thank god I don't need it to keep my part of the airplane from crashing... I sure somebody else doesn't care about structure and is only concerned with the wires.

Final ? what years is a CS alt from - to?

Jody
 
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