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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need your help guys. I want to buy my father air shocks for a gift, but I can't seem to find them anywhere. Can you tell me where to find them, what to order, and if air shocks are any good. He said he wants to get the back end up alittle, so I think air shocks are the right choice. Thanks in advance!!!

Ray
 

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What kind of car are you wanting to use these on? Air bags from Jegs is a much better way to do what you want if the vehicle has coil springs.

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Redrum (or Mike)
68 Corvette - 383 CI 427 HP
69 SS Chevelle being updated to Pro-Touring
97 Z-28
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh sorry...I forgot to mention the car. It's a 1969 Chevelle SS. Its a show car...not a 1/4 mile car or anything like that. Thanks.

Ray
 

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They do put alot of stress on the shock mounting points,I broke them on a 66 SS,but you're right,it was from back in the day of the stink bug look, trying to put M50-14 tires where they don't belong.

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Bob West
1972 Malibu 454+.030
TH350-3.73's
1.79 60 ft.
12.06 @ 112.89
 

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Get the air bags. Your car will thank you.

Air shocks are abusive!


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Bob (Pa.)

1963 Impala 283
1966 Chevelle SS 409
1969 Malibu 307
1972 Malibu 307
1969 C10 stepside 350
1971 Cheyenne 20 3/4 ton
Somebody stop me... :)

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I strongly recommend not getting air shocks. They shock mounts were never designed to support the load of a vehicle. with the shocks carrying the load the springs are not. I have broken shock mounts before when carrying people in the back and hitting a bump in the road. big mistake. I have heard of it happening to other people too. the proper way to lift the rear is to put spacers under the rear springs. I have 2 different thickness sets of them but I don't know where to get them. this keeps the load on the springs like it belongs. maybe someone knows where to get spring spacers. I'm not talking about anything that goes in-between the coils. it is a aluminum pad the spring sits on.

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Stay away from the Airshocks. Whats wrong with getting a new set of springs? They are not all that expensive, Easy to install and they are the right way to lift the rear of the car.

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The Bottlerat

Don Edmonds
T.C.#1033
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10.57 @ 125mph N/A
1.47 60'
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Yes, rear springs are dumb easy to replace. The airbags are available from Summit for about $70 a pair. They'll help if your Dad ever tries out 1/4 mile stuff, whereas the air shocks DEFINTELY will not!

And if he "cringes" mr grinch at the bags v shocks, you jsut tell him the Chevelle experts told you so. BAH HUMBUG!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all your replies guys
Looks like replace the springs or get some air bags is the way to go. Would I need to get larger size springs, if so how big. Anyone have a part number on the bags. Sorry for all the questions.

Merry Christmas from the grinch


[This message has been edited by grinch1989 (edited 12-17-2001).]
 

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I have never put a set of air bags in but do you not have to take the springs out to put the air bags in? If this is so, why would you not just put a new set of springs in? Are there any advantages to air bags? Just a thought.
 

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Cost maybe? I use the bumper jack ( I know - CAUTIOUSLY)to jack up the rear of the car. First, I undo the shocks
. and then its quite easy to remove the springs when the rear end is fully distended. Jack stand under the frame obviously in case the bumper jack does an about face!

Its not that the springs are taller, its that the spring steel is heavier dia and a stiffer rate.

Your dad might enjoy the new springs most, especially if you are replacing worn out originals. Ride quaility will defintely improve. Sorry I dont have a part #.

Oh and Ray, the best inexpensive shocks out there are KYB's Gas-A-Just. They are about $27-29 a piece. If the shocks in the car now are originals, SAVE 'EM, but dont run 'em.

Merry Christmas GRINCH!


[This message has been edited by Gene Chas (edited 12-17-2001).]
 

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I would also avoid the air shocks; here's a horror story that I would not share.

I have an 81 Blazer 4 x 4, where the LH upper shock mount splintered, and had to drill the frame for the upper LH shock position. At the time, Monroe Gas-Magnums were used, and they stressed the rear frame section, especially where an out-of-round hole is in my RH frame rail.

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Every single El Camino ever made from 1964 to 1987 came with rear air shocks. I wonder if the shock mountings are different between the Chevelle and the El Camino. I doubt it.



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Dan Carr
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My 67 Elky had them from the factory - still have the fill valve behind the passenger side seat in the window tray (?). I think the option for 67 Chevelles is G66 - Superlifts - listed under Heavy Duty & Other Accessories in Options and Accessories. Quite possible that they did put heavier shock mounts on cars so equipped, but guys ran them for years.

I had them on 67 Chevelles in the late 60's and early 70's. Have a pair of Gabriel's on the rear on my SS coupe now and they've been on there for 14 years. I agree you don't want to run them up and take weight off the springs but should be used more to level the car with a load or raise it slightly for clearance.

I have a pair of Air Lift 1000 bags but just haven't installed them yet. I don't think they are designed to raise the car per se, but as The Air Lift Company says, "Engineered as an add-on helper spring for coil spring suspensions." They should give a more "tuneable" ride and stop severe bounce and sway.

Spacers under the springs is a viable alternative. I'd stay away from the twist-in spacers that go between the coils as they tend to diminish the "spring" of the springs.

Air Lift bags are about the same price as air shocks and may be a bit easier to install since you don't have to get to the top shock bolts
. Anyway, Summit has them at $62.95 and I'm sure Jegs is about the same price. Summit shows two part numbers, AIR-60740 and AIR-60743. They don't show the difference but I'm sure if you called them, they could set you straight.

One thing I would suggest strongly, either way you go. If you're installing them at home, get an air tank to inflate the shocks or lifts before you put weight on them. Air shocks especially don't like to be run without air and can damage the seals rendering them useless.

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Dale McIntosh
TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67SS & 67 Elky
Dale's Place
Team 67
Integrity: If you have it, it doesn't matter - If you don't have it, it doesn't matter.

[This message has been edited by Dale McIntosh (edited 12-18-2001).]
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't some El Caminos come factory equipped with air shocks?
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 2BlueLS6's:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't some El Caminos come factory equipped with air shocks?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

As Dan Carr stated:

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Every single El Camino ever made from 1964 to 1987 came with rear air shocks. I wonder if the shock mountings are different between the Chevelle and the El Camino. I doubt it.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>



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Dale McIntosh
TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67SS & 67 Elky
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Integrity: If you have it, it doesn't matter - If you don't have it, it doesn't matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the additional responses. You all have been VERY helpful. No matter what I buy, I will print this post and include it in the box with the reciept


Thanks again Gents.

Ray
 

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I know that all 68-72 El Camino's came from GM with air shocks in the rear.
I also know that there is no difference between a 12 bolt in a 1969 El Camino and the 12 bolt in a 1969 SS 2 door hardtop.
There is no reason why you can't run air shocks on the rear of any Chevelle.
I suspect that the reason why some have had them fail is because the rubber bushings were wasted or they had weak mounts.
(put a bolt in a vise and smack it with a hammer. It will bend or break. Now put the same bolt in a vise with a rubber bushing over it and smack it with a hammer.)
I doubt you could hit it the same and have it break ! The lesson here.....If the bushings on the air shocks get old/brittle or smashed down, then they cannot absorb the shock.
I have air shocks on my 69 S/W, 69 El Camino, and my 2 door hardtop has had them for 15+ years. No problems ever.
They should not be inflated past the recommended maximum pressure, and this could be another reason for the failures spoke of here. They also have a minimum pressure of around 20-25 lbs. I usually run mine at 40-80 lbs (different for each car), to achieve the desired ride height.
Come to think of it, all of the air shock sets that I have bought in the recent past have come with new studs for the lower mount. Now I can see if you had old studs there, that they may be more prone to fail also. Add to that, 120+ lbs pressure and a full load of people and then the speed bump.....yeah....you get the picture !

Just buy the air shocks. They will give you a stiffer ride, but you can tailor them to the load.

Nate

Current collection:
1. 1969 Chevelle S/W SS 396/350 hp, TH400, 12 bolt 3:31 Posi, PS, PDB, AC, Dual action PW gate, Blue/Blk int (car is built as the factory would have made it. SS emblems, hood, wheels, paint scheme, etc, etc. Engine compartment looks factory). Interior not done, converting to black with buckets/console, tilt, tach, etc.
2. 1969 Chevelle Malibu. 2 dr hdtp. All #'s match. L48 350/300, TH350, 12 bolt 2:56, PS, PDB, AC, Tilt, Butternut ext/ Parchment int. (193,000 mi. never apart !) Owned since Nov, 1985.
3. 1969 Chevelle Malibu Convertible. Frost Lime/Blk int 350 TH350 10 bolt PS PDB AC Buckets/console, Power top, 87,000 orig mi.
4. 1969 El Camino SS396. Cortez silver ext/Blk int, buckets, PS, PDB, PW, No-AC, TH400 12 bolt 3:31
5. 1969 Nova SS. L48 350/300, M20, 3:31 12 bolt Posi, Red int/Garnet Red ext., Buckets, PS, PDB, no-AC, no console, 88,000 orig mi.
6. 1970 Camaro RS. (Z/22) all #'s match, 350/TH350, PS, PDB, AC, Shadow gray ext / blk int, Orig AM/FM



[This message has been edited by SS3964N8 (edited 12-18-2001).]
 

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Nate, wagon brother
I agree with you about how mine could have broke in the past and I can also see how you can run air shocks for ever with out any problems. I can also acknowledge that gm put air shocks on elky's, but it just does not sit right with me to use them because the spring is carrying the weight of the car. the shock is not. it just offers some resistance to spring bounce. so the spring cant travel up or down too fast or after you hit a bump it keeps the car from just bouncing for a while. the spring should be made right to do its job and a good shock to do its job. but I guess either way works.


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1970 Chevelle 454 Wagons haul A$$ in style! "The Chopped Suburban". to see some goto
www.EINSTYN.com FO_FDYFO = four-fifty four! TC#1460, VCEA#2
 
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