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Discussion Starter · #301 ·
Finally got my exhaust hooked back up...
When i took it all off for the headers, discovered that one of the Pypes racepro's had broken internally and all the packing had blown out. Ordered up a pair of Dynomax Ultraflows to go on to replace them. Also picked up a set of V band clamps so if i ever need to need to pull the transmission, I can easily get the front half of the exhaust off.

After much contemplation of changing the tailpipe exists, i decided to have the tails put back on the same style i had before (dumps before the bumper) but i did have them tuck them up a little higher and back behind the bumper a little more- You have to be laying on the ground now to see them, which was the idea- I don't want to see them.

Anyway, the muffler shop visit was not without its drama, but generally pretty happy with how it worked out...



Drivers side headpipe had to be reworked to fit new ball flange reducers and meet the new headers collectors that were much higher than the old ones.
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V-Band clamps welded on in front of the mufflers
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Same tails as before (Flowmaster American Thunder kit 2-1/2") But welded together now (had band clamps before) and tucked up higher. Now completely invisible if not laying on the ground.
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Still need to work out how to shorten the ebrake cable since i had to move the trans crossmember back and changed the geometry of the brackets a bit... But at least i Can drive the car again!
Woot woot!
 

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Aftermarket (Champ Items) used to sell cable shorteners just for that purpose.
 

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Ben, when I put a 7004r in my car, I relocated the trans cross member back, but didn't have to shorten the e-brake cable, iirc I just shortened the hook in the cross member. Then there was enough thread on the tensioner to get it set.

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Discussion Starter · #304 ·
Ben, when I put a 7004r in my car, I relocated the trans cross member back, but didn't have to shorten the e-brake cable, iirc I just shortened the hook in the cross member. Then there was enough thread on the tensioner to get it set.

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Thanks for posting Scott- Its funny because I was thinking about it last night, and it occured to me that the cable itself hasn't moved, only that one hooks location has. Now this morning I see your reply- A nice confirmation!
I'll bend up a new shorty and give that a try.

Thanks!
 

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"My 15x8 4.5BS wheels "look" like it will clear on the drivers side, but barely. Verdict is still out until its on the ground and has been bounced a few times.
My old 10 bolt was a 64 rear, so 1" narrower, and i've been aware that wheel fit might be an issue when i put this 12 bolt in.
I also knew that my frame is offset on the body slightly (visible from the bottom on all the bodymounts). "


Put any people in the back seat and I feel you're going to scrape rubber pretty bad on the wrong terrain. I would suggest a wheel with a larger backspacing. 5.5" will fit nice, and I actually managed 6" backspacing on a set of 295/50R15 BFG's for many years, stock frame and body. VERY close on the shock mounts, but it worked well.

The other thing you can try (but will sacrifice ride to some small degree) is variable rate springs. They compress normally the first 1" or so, then get real stiff and don't allow compression easily after that. (Also how I got those BFG's to not scrape.)

Rolling the quarter lip will look like absolute garbage; you won't be happy with that solution in my opinion, as you'll need to roll it a lot more than you expect to make the problem go away. It is much more visibly noticeable than most expect from what I've encountered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #306 ·
"My 15x8 4.5BS wheels "look" like it will clear on the drivers side, but barely. Verdict is still out until its on the ground and has been bounced a few times.
My old 10 bolt was a 64 rear, so 1" narrower, and i've been aware that wheel fit might be an issue when i put this 12 bolt in.
I also knew that my frame is offset on the body slightly (visible from the bottom on all the bodymounts). "


Put any people in the back seat and I feel you're going to scrape rubber pretty bad on the wrong terrain. I would suggest a wheel with a larger backspacing. 5.5" will fit nice, and I actually managed 6" backspacing on a set of 295/50R15 BFG's for many years, stock frame and body. VERY close on the shock mounts, but it worked well.

The other thing you can try (but will sacrifice ride to some small degree) is variable rate springs. They compress normally the first 1" or so, then get real stiff and don't allow compression easily after that. (Also how I got those BFG's to not scrape.)

Rolling the quarter lip will look like absolute garbage; you won't be happy with that solution in my opinion, as you'll need to roll it a lot more than you expect to make the problem go away. It is much more visibly noticeable than most expect from what I've encountered.
Thanks for the input- but its good. I've already driven the car with this setup around some twisty roads and there is no tire scrub.
It has airlift 1000 airspring inserts in the rear coils- visible in my photos. Even with only 5lbs of air in each bag, it clears without issue and its fairly stiff.
Even with a large load in the car i'm not worried at this point- if it became a problem a little more air in the bags would resolve it.

If i wanted the car lower in the rear (to be clear, I don't- I like a slight rake) then it would 100% be an issue with these wheels and I would need to change.
These wheels actually came from a friend who ran into the exact scenario and they did NOT clear on his 69 when he swapped in a standard width rear end (same as i just did)... Which is why i was concerned- however his car was VERY low, and he was running wider 275/60 tires with these wheels. With the rear of mine sitting higher, and the 255/60 tires- its not an issue.
 
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