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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys. Well the days of my junk Pro Comp heads are limited. I am replacing them this fall/winter/spring with either of these 2 pairs. The AFR's look amazing. My only question is with the raised exhaust port on the AFR's, will they fit well? Plus it appears that the ports definitely won't line up with my Victor JR or Professional Products Dual plane air gap. I hear the Race Rites will bolt up in replacement of a stock head, which won't screw with my exhaust, and I can run the intake unported, or un port matched i should say. My Victor JR is already port matched to a 1212 gasket i believe. It just looks like the AFR head out of the box is a much better head, and about the same money, and they are semi cnc ported. Would I have issues with the pistons and the AFR head? So confused beating my head up against the wall between these two. LOL. Whichever pair I run, I will be running a Straub hyd roller camshaft. the cam i have now should work great with the Race Rites. With Fitech Meanstreet EFI The 496 has 10.1 to 1 Keith black pistons. domed at 119cc


Straub hyd roller camshaft
280/294 adv duration
221/235 @ .050
.578/.578
109 ls
 
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Can't go wrong with either one of those heads. I think the Race rites exhaust are in the stock location.
 

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Run whichever head makes you happy. The HP difference won't be noticed on the street. Go with budget and whichever installation you feel up to. If you want ease of install, the race rites. If you want to risk header issues, though I am pretty sure the AFR's are only .375 raised so they usually don't cause interference with smaller tube headers, go afr. I am past the days of spending more money for 10-15 hp that you aren't going to see in a street car. Run half a tank of gas compared to a full tank and you'll see as much gain.
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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Just from things I've read before buying Brodix RR heads myself I think your cam would work better with the Brodix heads, have you asked Chris Straub his thoughts? From my understanding AFR are such a good flowing head that a split duration cam isn't needed
 

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Another wote for race rites, get them with std lenght BBC valves easier to get correct valvetrain geometry.
 

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Hi guys. Well the days of my junk Pro Comp heads are limited. I am replacing them this fall/winter/spring with either of these 2 pairs. The AFR's look amazing. My only question is with the raised exhaust port on the AFR's, will they fit well? Plus it appears that the ports definitely won't line up with my Victor JR or Professional Products Dual plane air gap. I hear the Race Rites will bolt up in replacement of a stock head, which won't screw with my exhaust, and I can run the intake unported, or un port matched i should say. My Victor JR is already port matched to a 1212 gasket i believe. It just looks like the AFR head out of the box is a much better head, and about the same money, and they are semi cnc ported. Would I have issues with the pistons and the AFR head? So confused beating my head up against the wall between these two. LOL. Whichever pair I run, I will be running a Straub hyd roller camshaft. the cam i have now should work great with the Race Rites. With Fitech Meanstreet EFI The 496 has 10.1 to 1 Keith black pistons. domed at 119cc


Straub hyd roller camshaft
280/294 adv duration
221/235 @ .050
.578/.578
109 ls
Food for thought.
What are your goals?
Make decisions based on where you "want" to be.
Very rare that aftermarket components all fit well with each other. This is the very nature of modern USA hot rodding.
It costs more money to do it the way you "want" it to be vs the simple easy way. The simple easy way is usually the second car across the finish line.
Much effort and expense are usually involved in the greater powered cars.
We just have to be honest with ourselves and our true goal.
Port work done by a good porter has rewards. Perfect fitting headers are also pricey but the grief is greatly reduced.
How much are you willing to spend? That is another factor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just from things I've read before buying Brodix RR heads myself I think your cam would work better with the Brodix heads, have you asked Chris Straub his thoughts? From my understanding AFR are such a good flowing head that a split duration cam isn't needed
Yeah. Cam really isn’t an issue I can change it if need be. I was just thinking of doing a quick head swap to get rid of these awful heads currently. Trying to make things easy as possible had a few health scares lately and cannot work on things as easily as I used to. So would like to keep the engine in the car if at all possible. But if the motor comes out so will the cam and get one that matches the heads through Chris.
 

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Just remember that the Procomp heads you have now are raised exhaust ports already.
 
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I can tell you that you won’t get either any time soon. Both AFR and Brodix are backed up for months. I just got my set of AFR 265 Magnums and there was zero issues with intake manifold fit. However there were issues with the alternator and AC brackets. Both were able to be corrected without much problem.
 

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I can tell you that you won’t get either any time soon. Both AFR and Brodix are backed up for months. I just got my set of AFR 265 Magnums and there was zero issues with intake manifold fit. However there were issues with the alternator and AC brackets. Both were able to be corrected without much problem.
Roval vs Oval aren't a very good fit, what am I missing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just remember that the Procomp heads you have now are raised exhaust ports already.
Jeez... i forgot all about that. You are right. They fit just fine, they just work like crap! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Another wote for race rites, get them with std lenght BBC valves easier to get correct valvetrain geometry.
Never thought of that. My Pro Slops LOL have .250 longer on the exh and .100 longer on the intake, or vice versa, i don't remember, but I had to run 2 different length pushrods. I will definitely check the lengths of all of them, no matter the case.
 
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Never thought of that. My Pro Slops LOL have .250 longer on the exh and .100 longer on the intake, or vice versa, i don't remember, but I had to run 2 different length pushrods. I will definitely check the lengths of all of them, no matter the case.
BBC’s has different lenght pushrods, longer on the exhaust shorter on the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
For the purpose of my edumacation...what specific symptoms about the ProComps result in your disappointment in them"?
Had problems with them from the word go. I bought them off a fraudulent ebayer that says he owns his own shop, but builds all these heads himself. This was 4 years ago. He had so many complaints on the internet that I saw AFTER the fact. He must have had so many complaints at Ebay that he changed his seller name. Anyway, they were supposed to be a custom built head and had the springs for my hyd roller cam. It might have had the springs that were close enough, but that's it. He neglected to put the correct valve spring locators on it, and it ruined 5 valve springs, all the valves, so I added new PBM Pro Flo valves, all springs and components from Straub. Ever since I put those heads on it has run warm. Very warm. I have intense under the hood temps, much more than my cast 781s. I put a new 4 core alum radiator in it. it runs cooler down the highway, but still heats up in traffic. Could it be something else? Possibly, but these things were junk from the word go, and I just don't know what else it could be. With my 496 and a manual direct drive fan with my 781s, i could drive it anywhere and not get hot, so i don't know if there could be a blockage in the heads? I'm just done with them.
 
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Had problems with them from the word go. I bought them off a fraudulent ebayer that says he owns his own shop, but builds all these heads himself. This was 4 years ago. He had so many complaints on the internet that I saw AFTER the fact. He must have had so many complaints at Ebay that he changed his seller name. Anyway, they were supposed to be a custom built head and had the springs for my hyd roller cam. It might have had the springs that were close enough, but that's it. He neglected to put the correct valve spring locators on it, and it ruined 5 valve springs, all the valves, so I added new PBM Pro Flo valves, all springs and components from Straub. Ever since I put those heads on it has run warm. Very warm. I have intense under the hood temps, much more than my cast 781s. I put a new 4 core alum radiator in it. it runs cooler down the highway, but still heats up in traffic. Could it be something else? Possibly, but these things were junk from the word go, and I just don't know what else it could be. With my 496 and a manual direct drive fan with my 781s, i could drive it anywhere and not get hot, so i don't know if there could be a blockage in the heads? I'm just done with them.
You did use the correct headgasket for your block with the pro Comp heads? Do you remember what head gaskets you used?
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You did use the correct headgasket for your block with the pro Comp heads? Do you remember what head gaskets you used?
i don’t remember which ones the 1st tine I got all the gaskets and studs through Straub. The 2nd time I used Fel Pro. But don’t remember which number. I matched them up first to see if they had any obstructions.
 

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i don’t remember which ones the 1st tine I got all the gaskets and studs through Straub. The 2nd time I used Fel Pro. But don’t remember which number. I matched them up first to see if they had any obstructions.
Ok its importent to use correct gasket for the block, I assume your block is a mark IV 454(70-90). They was made both series cold and parallell cold, wrong gasket and you will have problems. You can convert serie to parallell of you want. Here are some links.

 
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