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I have a question. My service manual says that solid lifters should be adjusted with the engine at normal temperature and running. How in the heck do you adjust the lifters with the engine running? Getting the feeler gauge in there is a little scary to me.

Until I figure this out, I usually stop the engine and run the valves. While this is working for me, I would sure like to know what the mechanics of old did.

BTW, I know how to adjust hydralic valves with the engine running. This is a solid lifter question. The engine is an LS6.


RLK

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RLK, screw that noise. No way. Hot ( if you dont yet know your particular mills hot/cold differential), plugs removed, carb open a bit, breaker bar on balancer bolt, EO/IC. ( exhaust just begins to open set intake, intake just begins to close set exhasut.)

Only way to do it right.

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Gene Chaas
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I'm with L-88. I never set my valves with the engine running. I hook a remote starter switch up and tap the mill around and just remember intake before, exhaust after. bump the engine around until the exhaust valve is allmost all the way open.(before) Then adjust that intake valve. then bump it around until that intake has opened and is almost all the way shut.(after) and then adjust that exaust valve. and so on and so forth. This should be done with the engine at operating temp.

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Don Edmonds
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1969 Chevelle 10:95 @ 121mph so far
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Don't tell me I CAN'T do something

[This message has been edited by bottlerat (edited 05-07-2001).]
 

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1971,

Never done it but I think I remember reading on this board that you loosen the nut until you hear the clacking, then tighten slowly until the noise disappears and then give it 1/2-3/4 more turn.

Gene,

I hope you come back on this thread and see this but have you heard that the 30/30 cam in the 302 Z/28 motor cannot be done to your method and has to be done with the car running because of the configuration of the cam?? There was some talk about that on the sister Camaro site. I was prepared to do it your way on my 68Z and then I read that thread over there and just got more


Mytmouse

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67 SS396 350HP 4 sp 3:55 Posi Butternut Yellow w/Black Vinyl
68 RS Z/28 302 350+Hp? 4sp 4:10 Posi, Euro Red on Black
70 SS396 350HP 4 sp 3:55 Posi, Black on Black

Mytmouse A.K.A. Robert Stacho
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I've done it both ways, running and off. Gene and Don are correct for the 'off' method. That's the only way to go if you don't want to make a mess. You can do it running and minimize the mess by using deflector clips (they clip over stock rocker arms and prevent the oil from shooting out of the pushrods and onto your engine compartment) and an old stamped steel valve cover with the top cut off. It will still make a mess, though.

Mytmouse,

Although I respect the opinions and information from those on the Camaro site, I can't imagine that the Z cam is configured so much differently that Gene & Don's 'off' method won't work. It may be an old wives tale. In the early 70's, I drag raced a 69 Z28 with the optional 140 off road Z cam (FAR more radical than the stock Z cam) and used the 'off' method to set the valves. The car ran 11.90's, so I think it was not too detrimental to its performance.

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Bill Pritchard
69 SS396 Convertible
"Doing my part to help the disadvantaged - My Chevelle was for sale by a blatant liar. Didn't trust him, so I hired a blind man to inspect it before I bought it."
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The 67 to 69 Z-28 cam or 30/30 cam is a solid lifter cam and cannot be adjusted with the car running. You need to set valve lash on a solid cam with feeler gauges at around .020" (check lash figures for your specific cam). The engine should be run up to operating temp,then shut off, pull the valve covers and tap the engine over to top dead center and adjust the 4 valves on the chart that can be adjusted there, turn the engine over 180° to the next spot in the chart etc. Look in a service manual for the chart of which valves to adjust at which crank position.
 

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As a kid I used to do it Bob's way. 4 valves at each rotation or something to that effect. However the EO-IC method will work with ANY cam according to guys here who have ALOT more experience that I or most on the Camaro site.The EO-IC methos ENNSURES you are on the base circle of the cam to set lash.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Bob Tiley:
The 67 to 69 Z-28 cam or 30/30 cam is a solid lifter cam and cannot be adjusted with the car running.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Bob,

With all due respect, why do you say it CANNOT be done? I would agree that it does not HAVE to be done with the car running, but to the best of my knowledge, it certainly CAN be done that way. I have set solid lifters many times with the car running.



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Bill Pritchard
69 SS396 Convertible
"Doing my part to help the disadvantaged - My Chevelle was for sale by a blatant liar. Didn't trust him, so I hired a blind man to inspect it before I bought it."
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Jody,

It takes a little practice, but you get the hang of it quickly. If you have it set too tightly, the feeler gage will stick with the rocker as it moves. Too loose, and it feels sloppy. Just right, it has a bit of a drag as you move it in & out. If I can do it, anyone can do it! It is messy, though.

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Bill Pritchard
69 SS396 Convertible
"Doing my part to help the disadvantaged - My Chevelle was for sale by a blatant liar. Didn't trust him, so I hired a blind man to inspect it before I bought it."
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It is my understanding the Z cam is called the 30-30 because you set the lash .030 on both intake and exhaust. Here is the thread that Mytmouse was refering to on Team Camaro http://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum1/HTML/004776.html JohnZ was involved with the 1st gen Z/28 as an engineer back when they first rolled off the assembly line. He feels with the 30-30 cam and only that cam the EO-IC method is too hard to find the base circle.

I will see if I can find the spec's for that cam and will post them if I do.

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...Dennis
Topless '69
 

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Found them! Here are the 3 factory cams..

Standard 302 (30-30) cam, P/N 3849346
Casting #3849347
254 duration @ .050" (intake & exhaust)
.485" lift (with 1.5 rockers)
114 deg. lobe separation
Exhaust Max lift @ 116 deg. BTDC
Intake Max lift @ 112 deg. ATDC

First Design Off-Road cam, P/N 3927140
Casting #3927141
Intake 257 duration @ .050" (333 advertised)
Exh. 269 duration @ .050" (346 advertised)
Lift: .493" intake, .512" exhaust
Intake Max lift @ 108 deg. ATDC
Exhaust Max lift @ 116 deg. BTDC

2nd Design Off-Road cam, P/N 3965754
Casting #3965751
Intake 248 duration (324 advertised)
Exh. 267 duration (334 advertised)
Lift: .512" intake, .535" exhaust

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...Dennis
Topless '69
 

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Dennis, well he should know then. Interestingly enough the cam isnt far off of my Crane specs 238/248 on a 114 LSA.
 

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Gene,

What do you set the lash at on yours? With .030 I wonder if if the margin of error is less for proper adjustment because it's loose to begin with combined with a small sweet spot.

I'm sure if a 302 isn't being put through it's paces, it will live for years without much attention (have talked to several owners that feel adjustment isn't necessary) and one that does get twisted up from time to time is better off getting an occasional adjustment, be it EO-IC or running.

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...Dennis
Topless '69
 

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Dennis,

Interesting point. I don't do any 7000 RPM power shifts with mine but will occaisionally blow her out just to let her know she can. To me the lifters sound the same as they always did but I was going to tinker just because eveyone said I should. I was only going to do it with a warm engine off and not running figuring if it wasn't perfect it would get me close enough with my kind of driving anyway. I am not trying to win any trophies at the drag strip...just a cruizer that gets a cramp in his leg every once in a while that "forces" me to straighten it out rather abruptly.


Mytmouse

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67 SS396 350HP 4 sp 3:55 Posi Butternut Yellow w/Black Vinyl
68 RS Z/28 302 350+Hp? 4sp 4:10 Posi, Euro Red on Black
70 SS396 350HP 4 sp 3:55 Posi, Black on Black

Mytmouse A.K.A. Robert Stacho
ACES Member # 04359
 
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