[69307/350Chevelle]

I have a '69 chevelle, going to vacuum test the system, I heard you should make sure you know the correct system size so you don't overcharge it, how can I find this information? Also, I'm sure I need about 36oz of esther oil total? I know some needs to go into the compressor, any other specific areas that I should put the oil in to get it started?

 

[Robinls5]

First is the system 100% stock and empty of all 12 or 134 oil? If it is, just go by the book on 3-4 oz. in e-vap core-and follow through with the oil fill. Side note after filling the comp, Use a speed wrench to crank the comp. BY HAND (forward & reverse) to make sure you have no oil on the top of the pistons.
Reason being, The comp. will compress gas, NOT A LIQUID. Same as filling a cyl. up with oil in your car install the spark plug, NOW hit the starter.
Take your time an you will be " COOL ":thumbsup:
Bob

 

[doc j]

No more than 11 ounces of oil for the entire system. With the A6 compressor the system held 60 ounces of R-12.

 

[69307/350Chevelle]

Hah ok, wow good thing I asked about how much oil . The system is currently all stock with the exception of the POA replacement, even has the old compressor and is completely empty. I figured I'd have to put some in the compressor to lubricate it. Then just spread the others 11oz out by putting it in other places? or just put it all in thru compressor, thanks!

 

[lsrx101]

Hah ok, wow good thing I asked about how much oil . The system is currently all stock with the exception of the POA replacement, even has the old compressor and is completely empty. I figured I'd have to put some in the compressor to lubricate it. Then just spread the others 11oz out by putting it in other places? or just put it all in thru compressor, thanks!

That is assuming the system is dry and empty (been flushed and blown out).

5 ounces in the compressor sump, you fill it through the hole on the bottom of the compressor. 3-4 ounces in the evaporator, some in the R/D and the rest in the condenser.

You really might want to reconsider that POA eliminator. The POA valve is the heart of that system and new/good used ones are easy to find.

 

[69307/350Chevelle]

I'm actually thinking of doing that. I still have my POA and was going to research sending it out to that place in Tampa, FL to have to fitted for R134. Anyone know how much they charge for a thing like that? I figure it will look more original, and there will be less wires everywhere. However, for now I'm just trying to get the A/C working. I've heard that the A6 compressors (which I'm still using) weren't made to 'cycle' so much. I figure for now the POA eliminator works, and should last for a little bit, right?


Oh yeah, After I'm done all of this, where do I need to get the sticker that says how much R134/Esther oil is in the system? Or do I just need to put something that says its R134 and not R12.

 

[lsrx101]

Take a look at the FAQ section at www.autoacforum.com. There are articles on testing and calibrating the POA. It's easy to do.
Concderns about the clutch really aren't the issue with the POA eliminator. They just don't work as well as the POA. It's really a downgrade to the system.

I've heard that cycling was hard on the A-6 clutch and used to think it was accurate. However, looking back, many early GM CCOT systems used the A-6 with no difference in the clutch. I recently bought a 78 ElCamino that has an A-6 cycling system.

You can get the conversion stickers at most any parts store.

 

[69307/350Chevelle]

Heh so I got cold air for about 3 min, then the jump tube (metal line from condensor to drier) decided to blow a hole in itself. Guess it wasn't still good after all those years. Can I just get a metal line with the same threads, or do I need something specifically for that replacement?

 

[lsrx101]

Heh so I got cold air for about 3 min, then the jump tube (metal line from condensor to drier) decided to blow a hole in itself. Guess it wasn't still good after all those years. Can I just get a metal line with the same threads, or do I need something specifically for that replacement?

You could replace it with generic metal tube, but I doubt you could find it with the correct fittings on the ends. That tube is available.

You did replace the dryer and check the screen in the TXV, didn't you? If the system was empty for a long time, it's likely full of corrosion

 

[69307/350Chevelle]

I did replace the dryer, and did replace the TXV, so I hope there isn't any corrosion in it . Yeah just went to local parts place, they have metal lines, but not with the threaded fittings on the end. Perhaps later I might try Home Depot or even...*gasp* Autozone...

 

[lsrx101]

I did replace the dryer, and did replace the TXV, so I hope there isn't any corrosion in it . Yeah just went to local parts place, they have metal lines, but not with the threaded fittings on the end. Perhaps later I might try Home Depot or even...*gasp* Autozone...

You won't find the correct line at any hardware store and not likely at a parts store.
Here's the line you need, second from the bottom of the page:
http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=400_402_4021969&sort=3a&page=3

 

[lsrx101]

double post

 

[69307/350Chevelle]

I did one even better, I just had the local radiator shop seal the hole for me, took 5 min, and $10

 

[69307/350Chevelle]

It appears I have a leak somewhere in the system. At moment I can't see where, tomorrow I'm going to put some Neon leak detection R134 and run the system, hopefully it will be visible, other than that a few minor wrap ups and I'll have A/C.