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Discussion Starter #1
I received my ABC Perf frame kit and had a few questions for those who installed them. Particularly the side rail section where it meets the body bushing bracket. The issue I'm having is if I cut back the bushing bracket flush with the edge of the rail, the precut ABC Perf kit appears to be just short of the height of the bracket when it's cut flush to the edge of the rail. Hopefully I'm explaining it to accurately describe my issue.

The box was marked 64-67 so I have the correct item and I have searched on the forum and web for pics. It appears others who have installed the kit have cut the bushing bracket flush with the edge of the rail and the ABC kit fit flush up against the edge with correct height. I believe if I cut the bracket flush with the rail, the ABC kit will be approx 1/4" short. No worries as I can fab a small filler piece but I don't believe the kit calls for it. Any ideas from those who did an ABC install? See my pic for a better idea.
 

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Tony,

I don't believe I'm understanding completely what your asking. By looking at your picture it looks like you are referring to the top of the ABC plate being higher then the bottom of the frame rail at the body mount location. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

When I did my ABC install I had to straighten the bottom of the frame rail a considerable amount due to years of it being used as a jacking point. The ABC boxing plate was no where near close to fitting correctly before I straightened the rail.







Here are a few pics of my install.

Mike
 

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Looks like you would need to load the frame downwards in order to get it straight enough to match the new piece.
 

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It has been a few years since I installed my ABC kit on my '66 frame but I remember bending the ABC metal some to get them to fit the mounting bracket area you are talking about. Here is a picture of mine installed. Sorry I don't remember exactly what I cut here. ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1451317029.149509.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Tony,

I don't believe I'm understanding completely what your asking. By looking at your picture it looks like you are referring to the top of the ABC plate being higher then the bottom of the frame rail at the body mount location. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

When I did my ABC install I had to straighten the bottom of the frame rail a considerable amount due to years of it being used as a jacking point. The ABC boxing plate was no where near close to fitting correctly before I straightened the rail.







Here are a few pics of my install.

Mike
Mike,
My explanation was bad but you got what I was trying to say. Basically the top of the ABC rail is shorter than the top of my bracket. After looking at yours, Doug and Mikes pics, I see and now have an explanation of what to do.

I called Tony at ABC and explained the concern and he basically said to tweak the frame to get it all to the correct height. The only question left was if the frame would bow or bend if I cut the body bushing bracket off. It looks like it supports the mid rail it if it needs to get ground off will it compromise the rail when it's cut down. Tony at ABC says no.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It has been a few years since I installed my ABC kit on my '66 frame but I remember bending the ABC metal some to get them to fit the mounting bracket area you are talking about. Here is a picture of mine installed. Sorry I don't remember exactly what I cut here. View attachment 319713
Doug, nice setup for the trans mount. I'm looking at doing something similar with the stock trans mount and cutting it back then welding hardware to bolt up to the frame.
 

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Hey guys, a couple questions on the ABC install. What are you doing to keep the frame from twisting, and are you treating the inside of the rails before welding the plate in? I haven't ordered mine yet as I was on the edge of finding another frame and doing the one I found and swapping when I got it finished. What do you think of his rear coil over setup?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey guys, a couple questions on the ABC install. What are you doing to keep the frame from twisting, and are you treating the inside of the rails before welding the plate in? I haven't ordered mine yet as I was on the edge of finding another frame and doing the one I found and swapping when I got it finished. What do you think of his rear coil over setup?
Terry,
I did what Mike did in the pics he posted. I tacked in some angle pieces across the rails to hold it in place. I also called Tony G at ABC which his only advice was to remeasure between the 2 center body bushing holes, center to center which should be 53" +/- 1/16th. If it's over/under then use a puller or come along to make the adjustment. Mine was spot on the money so I only tacked the angle in place and completed the boxing. I re-measured later and had no distortion. Just jump around when welding so as not to heat up any one area too long and you shouldn't have any distortion. I can't comment on the rear coil over setup because I never looked into it or was interested.
 

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Hey guys, a couple questions on the ABC install. What are you doing to keep the frame from twisting, and are you treating the inside of the rails before welding the plate in? I haven't ordered mine yet as I was on the edge of finding another frame and doing the one I found and swapping when I got it finished. What do you think of his rear coil over setup?
Terry,

I braced the frame in several places to ensure nothing moved as I cut material out and welded in new pieces.

In these pictures you can see where i used 2x2 angle across the center of the frame. I used 1/4 thick by 2" wide steel strap across the rear of the chassis. You can also see the 1x1 tubing I tacked in when I was working on the C-Notch.

The legs that I welded to the outside of the frame are adjustable and the frame was leveled and checked for square prior to any cutting.







http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y34/cop427/image_zpss78mha76.jpg

I also made a brace in between the front control arm mounting points. I had some frame sag in this area that we corrected and I wanted a little extra insurance that it didn't happen again.


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y34/cop427/image_zpsrp1n4v0q.jpg

I would definitely box the frame rails prior to Narrowing the C-Notch. Here is my finished frame.




It's not a difficult job if you take your time and measure twice and cut once. Good luck!

If I can help in any way, don't hesitate to ask.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Terry,

I braced the frame in several places to ensure nothing moved as I cut material out and welded in new pieces.

In these pictures you can see where i used 2x2 angle across the center of the frame. I used 1/4 thick by 2" wide steel strap across the rear of the chassis. You can also see the 1x1 tubing I tacked in when I was working on the C-Notch.

The legs that I welded to the outside of the frame are adjustable and the frame was leveled and checked for square prior to any cutting.







http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y34/cop427/image_zpss78mha76.jpg

I also made a brace in between the front control arm mounting points. I had some frame sag in this area that we corrected and I wanted a little extra insurance that it didn't happen again.


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y34/cop427/image_zpsrp1n4v0q.jpg

I would definitely box the frame rails prior to Narrowing the C-Notch. Here is my finished frame.




It's not a difficult job if you take your time and measure twice and cut once. Good luck!

If I can help in any way, don't hesitate to ask.

Mike
Mike,
I wanted to find out how you handled the trans cross member. Did you fab your own brackets or is there an aftermarket item I can look into. I see several ways others have mounted brackets. I was thinking about cutting down the stock one to work with some fabbed brackets welded to the boxed rails? Looking for some suggestions. Thanks
 

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Tony,

I bough a crossmember kit (unwelded). I mocked everything up and welded the brackets to the boxing plate. These are the only pictures I could find but it will give you an idea of what we did.





And here is my fabricator:D



Mike
 

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My pics have gotten screwed up over the years, but here is a link to how I did my frame notching and boxing before the ABC parts were available for purchase. In hindsight, I would've blasted the frame before modifying it instead of after.
There is a "write up" I did on the second page of pics in this album, look for one entitled Page 1, then you can flip thru them.

I'm guessing Mike may have seen this before, his bracing looks pretty much the same :thumbsup:
http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/65_LS1_T56/library/65 Frame Notching
 

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My pics have gotten screwed up over the years, but here is a link to how I did my frame notching and boxing before the ABC parts were available for purchase. In hindsight, I would've blasted the frame before modifying it instead of after.
There is a "write up" I did on the second page of pics in this album, look for one entitled Page 1, then you can flip thru them.

I'm guessing Mike may have seen this before, his bracing looks pretty much the same :thumbsup:
http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/65_LS1_T56/library/65 Frame Notching

Aaron,

That was/is a great write up!! Your are a talented man!
 

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Hey Mike, what is the correct dimension between the control arm mounts?
I can't find it.
Thanks,
Todd
31 1/16"



This is what I used. I'm not 100% positive that the 65 frame is the same but I would think it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Tony,

I bough a crossmember kit (unwelded). I mocked everything up and welded the brackets to the boxing plate. These are the only pictures I could find but it will give you an idea of what we did.





And here is my fabricator:D



Mike
Mike,
What was the angle you used to mock up the trans mount. I see you have an angle gauge set up on the rear of trans.
 

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Here's what I did with my ABC kit. As far as the center bushing area goes, I just bent the plate to fit and didn't cut the frame. I put dimple die holes in there to allow for ventilation. My buddy's frame rotted on his factory boxed Vette frame from no ventilation, so I added the holes.

As far as the crossmember goes, I used a piece of 3X3X3/8 angle to mount the crossmember, threaded some holes on the bottom and the side facing the transmission, welded nuts on the backside, used the factory holes on the bottom of the frame, bolted the angle to the factory crossmember holes, made an angle bracket out of 2X2X1/4 for the crossmember to bolt to, cut 3 inches off of each side of the stock crossmember, notched the boxing plate, and welded the angle to the boxing plate. Phew...that was a long sentence...sorry. :D

I also cut the transmission mount off and mounted it on the bottom of crossmember to get the transmission at a lower angle. The T-56 is a big animal!

Brace your frame before welding like Mike did. When I welded mine, I skipped around and I still had to pull it in a little.

Good thing we got this nice new website to attach pictures easier! I was able to attach one, but it wouldn't allow me to attach another, so I deleted it. Drag and drop box didn't work! I just drug the picture into the text box, but that sucks because it just pastes the thumbnail! ARGGGGG!! I guess you have to click on them or go to my pictures in my user file to see them! I thought I had this figured out on the old site!

 
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