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Discussion Starter #1
Asked a friend if he wouldnt sell me his HEI that he has laying in parts, was me that helped him build a complete Hei from this and another so basically a housing with shaft, weights and reluctor and pickupcoil.

So plan was to use a module I already have buy a new melonized gear a rotor cap and adapter for external coil since I have several cannister coils. Wanted to have a spare distributor thats stand alone and works without a box.

He told me I could have his other distributor instead for the money I was going to spend on parts, its a chinese msd ready to run knock off with a strange feature to adjust timing with a knob.

It has a .500” shaft I had a almost new melonized Morel gear so went ahead and bought it.

I know its working and I helped him replaced it for a msd with 6al box since he wanted rev limiter. Maybe 2 years ago. I also rembered that I looked at this when I removed it and saw it used a HEI module and it uses same bushings to limit mech advance as msd. Looks like same reluctor as msd ford style but think a mopar pickup coil.
Msd cap and rotor also works.

Took it apart it was in nice shape since it was only used one summer but cleaned it and checked it over set the endplay ended up at .018 and changed the gear.

Compared it with a new msd I have and all I can say is msd is much better quality vs this copy. Msds endplay is fine out of the box and better finish and feels tighter everywhere.

But know this funny thing is working and will drop right in under 5 min and take me home if my box dies.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Morel gear and next to a msd.
 

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Yup, once I did my first prototype in 1976, there have been a bunch of clones. I sure wouldn't run a MOPAR pickup, though.
 

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I don't know if anyone else noticed this, but as the timing setting is changed by the adjuster screw, it moves not only the position of the reluctor, in degrees, but, changes both the degrees and vacuum rating of the vacuum advance, and has NO positive degrees stop plate.

So, changing the timing with the screw resets the vacuum advance, and with it not having the degrees positive stop on the vacuum advance, the manufacturer makes setting degrees stop and vacuum rate pull completely not workable. I am sure the instructions for the vacuum advance, to change the degrees setting tells the user to adjust the Allen screw in the hose nipple to stop vacuum advance degrees down, which completely alters the vacuum rate pull the advance operates from.

Not much to be admired with this setup.

Some people don't copy stuff very well, it appears.
 

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Boldly procrastrinating
66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
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Well, God knows people aren't supposed to actually look at stuff and see how it works in the real world. You're supposed to just read what their marketdroids wrote up for ads, shut up and pay your money. No expertise needed or wanted.
 

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Tom, you just outlined the main reason there are so many, many people that know everything about something, and really only know what they read, from OVER-HYPE ADS, and sales motivated tech squads.
 

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I have found out in my lifetime, A brick turns out to be a cheaper & better doorstop than some of the " Offshore ALUM. chunks "............:crying:
Bob
 

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Oh, no, Robin, there are a LOT of aluminum aftermarket ignition distributors that hold stuff from rolling down the driveway, quite well, I1, LS, I3, PHONY HEI'S that are NOT A REAL HEI, and, more, more....MORE. That is just the ignition junk, there are hundreds of other things from all facets of the car, that have no business being offered to the public as good parts, but are absolutely OK as door stops.
 
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