Question on what all is needed. I thought I had everything but now I am not sure. It is a manual drum/drum car and the more I read the more confused I am on what I need with regard to distribution block or proportioning valve, ect. I bought a manual disc/drum master cylinder for a 67 but I am not sure that will work as is. Do I need to replace the distribution block? Is there a separate metering block I need. Is there a master cylinder I can use with manual brakes that will have everything i need built into it?
98-02 LS brake swap on 67 question
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Just did this on my car. C6 discs front and rear but same idea assuming you’re swapping to discs front and rear. I went hydroboost but everything else still applies. Look for a corvette master cylinder for disc disc with a 1 inch plunger if you’re staying with manual. 1.25 if power assisted. Ditch the distribution block and just plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve into the rear. Nothing for the front. Just a tee to each wheel. It’s actually pretty straight forward. Let me know if you want more specifics. I don’t think I’ve missed anything. I’m sure someone else will chime in if I have.
1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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I'm installed a 4 whl disc kit with D52 style pads on all 4 corners but had problems with the MC and P valve that came with the kit so I bought a 68 vette MC at Napa and a Wilwood adj. P valve online and the brakes work much better so I'm sure the same P valve would work for you, not 100% sure the MC would but I'd give it a try, I also had to make a push rod type part out of 1/2" round steel rod but I don't remember how long it had to be and had to sand dia. down but they do sell different size rods I just had a piece of 1/2" rnd. stock laying around, it was a trial and error deal and my brakes are still a little to easy to apply
I went with Leed Brakes front disc conversion (D52 style pads) and big 11' rear drums. I used a stock manual 67 master for disc / drum and a 67 distribution block. I understand the distribution block has no proportioning valve, but I installed it anyway to try it. Much improved braking over the drum / drum, and I get a fair share of brake dust front & rear.
I have not slammed the brake pedal thru the floorboards to see it locks up like the FantomWorks guy does.
I have not slammed the brake pedal thru the floorboards to see it locks up like the FantomWorks guy does.
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I used C6 brakes front and rear and stayed manual; no booster. I plumbed in an adjustable prop valve, took out stock combo valve when I replaced all brake lines. I am using a 7/8” master from a 76(?) Monza. I am very pleased with my braking and pedal feel.
I think the big question is whether you're converting to disc/drum or disc/disc.... what's your intent?
I did a swap from 4wheel manual drum to manual 98-02 LS1 4 wheel disc on my 1966. I used:
Because I did both front and rear brakes from same car, I didn't feel like an adjustable proportioning valve was needed. There is a natural proportioning designed into the system based upon the surface area of the front vs. rear pistons in the calipers. I'm sure it could be tuned a bit better, but my old-man sedan really isn't a race car. But it stops nice and straight (no more drum brake pulling to one side), and the beauty of the manual brakes is they work the same whether the engine is running or not.
I think I reused the simple brass distribution block (and plugged the port that would go to the 1/4" line to the rear brakes), and then used a straight through coupler to run the rear 1/4" line from the rear port of the PVKS-4 valve. Whatever was simple and easy. Hardest part was making new hard lines to connect to proportioning valve, since I hadn't discovered NiCopp lines, was still using steel tubing.
I got the calipers and backing plates off a Camaro at my local pick-n-pull... ordered rebuild kits and rebuilt the calipers with new seals, sprayed with some silver caliper paint and baked it on. The paint has held up better than I expected.
I did a swap from 4wheel manual drum to manual 98-02 LS1 4 wheel disc on my 1966. I used:
- Master cylinder: Classic Performance M-C1516-L (4-wheel disc brake master cylinder, corvette style, 15/16" bore)
- Proportioning valve: Classic Performance PVKS-4 - Classic Performance Brake Proportioning Valves [ I don't think it does much proportioning... mostly a low-pressure cut-off and switch for a brake failure warning light ]
Because I did both front and rear brakes from same car, I didn't feel like an adjustable proportioning valve was needed. There is a natural proportioning designed into the system based upon the surface area of the front vs. rear pistons in the calipers. I'm sure it could be tuned a bit better, but my old-man sedan really isn't a race car. But it stops nice and straight (no more drum brake pulling to one side), and the beauty of the manual brakes is they work the same whether the engine is running or not.
I think I reused the simple brass distribution block (and plugged the port that would go to the 1/4" line to the rear brakes), and then used a straight through coupler to run the rear 1/4" line from the rear port of the PVKS-4 valve. Whatever was simple and easy. Hardest part was making new hard lines to connect to proportioning valve, since I hadn't discovered NiCopp lines, was still using steel tubing.
I got the calipers and backing plates off a Camaro at my local pick-n-pull... ordered rebuild kits and rebuilt the calipers with new seals, sprayed with some silver caliper paint and baked it on. The paint has held up better than I expected.
Sorry I should have been more specific I am just doing the fronts right now.
Was your car a disc/drum or drum/drum to start? The master cylinder I got for the 67 manual disc/drum set up has a much larger front reservoir than the back. Most master cylinders I see for this type of swap appear to be about the same size, like this one from right stuff.I went with Leed Brakes front disc conversion (D52 style pads) and big 11' rear drums. I used a stock manual 67 master for disc / drum and a 67 distribution block. I understand the distribution block has no proportioning valve, but I installed it anyway to try it. Much improved braking over the drum / drum, and I get a fair share of brake dust front & rear.
I have not slammed the brake pedal thru the floorboards to see it locks up like the FantomWorks guy does.
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My 66 was drum/drum as disc brakes were not available from the factory until 67. The master I bought (from RockAuto I believe) has same size resi's front and rear, but you are right that as disc brakes became more the norm - you'll find a bigger front disc resi.
I actually ran the 67 disc brake dual master (with the dual brake line setup) for a little bit with my drum/drum setup until I was ready to pull the trigger on the disc conversion. Worked fine, but then again I never locked 'em up
I actually ran the 67 disc brake dual master (with the dual brake line setup) for a little bit with my drum/drum setup until I was ready to pull the trigger on the disc conversion. Worked fine, but then again I never locked 'em up
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No that is correct the front reservoir of the master cylinder is much larger due to the volume of fluid needed to push the large disc pistons. A smaller reservoir would run dry before extending the big pistons as the pads wear.Sorry I should have been more specific I am just doing the fronts right now.
Was your car a disc/drum or drum/drum to start? The master cylinder I got for the 67 manual disc/drum set up has a much larger front reservoir than the back. Most master cylinders I see for this type of swap appear to be about the same size, like this one from right stuff.
Right Stuff Detailing G0571 Right Stuff Detailing Master Cylinders | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Right Stuff Detailing Master Cylinders with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Master Cylinders at Summit Racing.
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The LS disc/disc system does not need an adjustable proportioning valve.
The front brakes do 70% of the stopping so there is no need to lower the pressure to the rear brakes.
You can install one if you want, but you will find that it is adjusted wide open and the rear brakes still won't lock up.
The front brakes do 70% of the stopping so there is no need to lower the pressure to the rear brakes.
You can install one if you want, but you will find that it is adjusted wide open and the rear brakes still won't lock up.
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