I think the big question is whether you're converting to disc/drum or disc/disc.... what's your intent?
I did a swap from 4wheel manual drum to manual 98-02 LS1 4 wheel disc on my 1966. I used:
- Master cylinder: Classic Performance M-C1516-L (4-wheel disc brake master cylinder, corvette style, 15/16" bore)
- Proportioning valve: Classic Performance PVKS-4 - Classic Performance Brake Proportioning Valves [ I don't think it does much proportioning... mostly a low-pressure cut-off and switch for a brake failure warning light ]
Because I did both front and rear brakes from same car, I didn't feel like an adjustable proportioning valve was needed. There is a natural proportioning designed into the system based upon the surface area of the front vs. rear pistons in the calipers. I'm sure it could be tuned a bit better, but my old-man sedan really isn't a race car. But it stops nice and straight (no more drum brake pulling to one side), and the beauty of the manual brakes is they work the same whether the engine is running or not.
I think I reused the simple brass distribution block (and plugged the port that would go to the 1/4" line to the rear brakes), and then used a straight through coupler to run the rear 1/4" line from the rear port of the PVKS-4 valve. Whatever was simple and easy. Hardest part was making new hard lines to connect to proportioning valve, since I hadn't discovered NiCopp lines, was still using steel tubing.
I got the calipers and backing plates off a Camaro at my local pick-n-pull... ordered rebuild kits and rebuilt the calipers with new seals, sprayed with some silver caliper paint and baked it on. The paint has held up better than I expected.