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Anybody do a drum to disc brake conversion in a 1970 chevelle using 1998-2002 camaro/trans am brakes? If so how did it bolt up and was there alot to it? I am interested in this route, just curious who has done this. Thanks
 

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Not a whole lot to it. You need to either fabricate or purchase brackets for the calipers mount up to your spindles,and machine down the outer diameter of the hubs to fit inside of the Camaro rotors.You will also need longer wheel studs along with a set of Camaro brake hoses.If you search ls1 brake conversions,you will find all the info along with a video or two to help you along.You will need at least a 17 inch wheel to clear the new calipers.I have done this conversion on my 66 using the stock drum brake spindles, and would recommend this to anyone wishing to upgrade their brakes without breaking the bank. Pics in garage.
 

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I'm pretty sure that a 16" rim will clear as I had LS1 brakes on a 97 TA that I had and 16" rims for the track. Don't see where there would be any difference from a 4th gen F Body and an A body for clearance. Also , you can clearance the calipers to clear 15" rims.
 
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66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
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What John said.
 

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I did mine a little different but picked up some better handling also. I Got a 1975 or so Impala set up but only used the spindle and caliper part, have global west offset control arms and 1989 Transam 12 inch rotor. The Impala rotor will not work as they have a 5 inch bolt spacing. It does fit my 15 inch wheels but I do agree above that may be case by case and I think what also helps is I stuck with the old single piston caliper. One nice thing about taller spindles it changes the roll center so the tire has less of a tendency to suck under the car when going around a corner.
 

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Lew, did you do anything about the substantially different length of the steering arm and the height of the outer tie-rod end?
 
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The biggest challenge I had with the swap is the parking brake cables. Not the cable itself, but having compatible ends attached to the cable that connects the F body parking brake backing plates. Finally found someone at a local motorcycle shop to do it. But he bent me over. Charged me $70 for 5 mins of actual labor. :rolleyes:

You will need to turn down your stock front hubs on a brake lathe so the F body rotors fit over them. Plus you might need to fabricate new rear brake lines on the axle for rear hoses. I ran new lines on my entire project, so I'm unsure if I could've adapted the existing '67 hard lines.

Other than that, the swap is 100% bolt on.
 

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I did this upgrade on my '66 also installed a master cylinder off a '78 corvette, GM undermount proportioning valve and hydroboost. One of the best upgrades on the car. Stops straight and on a dime.
 

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Lew??
 

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Reviving this thread.
I'm in the process of doing this upgrade on my 64, four drum to four disc brakes. I went to a salvage yard for the calipers. I bought brackets from flynbye for $85 including shipping. I still have a 283 but plan to do a LS engine swap in the future. I think the LS1 master cylinder has a 1-1/8" bore for all wheel disc.

Has anybody made the master cylinder and brake booster work in their chevelle??
Any modifications to the firewall?
 

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I wouldn't bother with the F body booster. Too much work to make it fit. You can mount any master on a stock '64-'66 Chevelle booster. Or better yet, find yourself a hydroboost out of a wrecked Chevy truck. That's what I did.

The Camaro master can be used but the lines come out from the engine side. I used a master from a 2006 Trailblazer SS.
 

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Has anybody made the master cylinder and brake booster work in their chevelle??
Any modifications to the firewall?
My master cylinder and 11" booster was from Right Stuff. It was intended for a disc/drum setup and had a proportioning valve (PV2) attached beside the MC.

I exchanged that PV2 valve with a PV4 which is for 4 wheel discs.

I was told that's all I need to do. It will be a while before I can road test it.
 

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Before doing all this work try using Porterfield brake pads and shoes.. They made a big difference to the stock disc/drum braking system on my 69 el Camino..
 

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Lew, did you do anything about the substantially different length of the steering arm and the height of the outer tie-rod end?
Actually the height of the tie rod end (by spindle) did not seem to move much and the arm being a little further out the drag link and the ball joint movement seemed to have picked up the slack.
 

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I wouldn't bother with the F body booster. Too much work to make it fit. You can mount any master on a stock '64-'66 Chevelle booster. Or better yet, find yourself a hydroboost out of a wrecked Chevy truck. That's what I did.

The Camaro master can be used but the lines come out from the engine side. I used a master from a 2006 Trailblazer SS.
Thanks for the suggestion Pete. I recently installed power steering with a Saginaw P series pump and 800 series gear box. I'll have to do more research about using a hydro boost but I like the idea of having more space under the hood. The problem with trying to customize, save money and not buy a kit, is not knowing how everything will fit. If I knew what parts were compatible it would be easier to pull parts from a salvage yard, rock auto or ebay.

I don't want my brake pedal super sensitive. How sensitive are you brakes?
If I go with hydroboost won't I have to get a power steering cooler?
I understand that a 1" bore size in the master cylinder (MC) may provide better pressure than 1-1/8" but with hydro boost does it not matter?
What proportioning valve did you use?

I imagine I could probably make a ford MC work. I've read that people use hydro boosters from Mustangs and GM Astro vans as well.
 

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The Right Stuff front disk upgrade kit was very easy on my 70 El Camino. Somebody else has already done the hard part of solving if it all will fit and they did it at a reasonable price. And it performs well.

Why go through the agony of doing it some other way?

Rick

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Good option for some. I've already obtained front/rear brake calipers, front conversion brackets, backing plates, rotors and pads for about $300. This way I can do it for less than half the cost and learn a lot more in the process. Many people online have done LS1 brake conversions.
https://www.chevelles.com/forums/16...g/1027074-f-body-disc-brakes-67-malibu-2.html
https://www.chevelles.com/forums/16-brakes-suspension-steering/851058-c5-components-not-2.html

An old neighbor steered me in this direction. Now I just need to get the right master cylinder, booster and brake lines.
 

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An old neighbor steered me in this direction. Now I just need to get the right master cylinder, booster and brake lines.
For the brake lines, I would use nicopp lines which won't corrode and are easy to bend. Get a 25' roll of 3/16" and 1/4".

I'm finishing up a total conversion to LS1 brakes and need to ask a question about hooking up the booster (figured you might have the same problem).

My car was 4 wheel drum brakes, non-power assist.

So I've read the power booster rod that connects to the brake pedal should connect to the lower hole (there are two holes in the brake pedal).

There is a bracket that connects the rod to the pedal and I have it set at it's longest possible length and it's about 3/8" too short to reach the pedal hole when it's sitting in the retracted position ?

Do I need to lengthen the rod with a coupling ?

My booster is from Right Stuff (11").
 

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