Team Chevelle banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I started to try and tune my car better. It was tuned pretty well just for track use, but runs rich on the street at idle and litle cruising. I took my carb off to adjust the butter flies so that they were not open to far. After doing that I was going to set the idle using the idle-ez that I read up on. Well I take the center piece out that holds the air filter stud in and I find that I do not have an idle. ez. I bought this carb from my engine builder used. Was this an early model that did not have the idle-EZ? Do I have to resort to drilling holes in my butter flys?

thanks
Tom
 

· Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Demon Carb.....

The 850 Annular Mighty I purchased new came with the Idle-Eze so jammed that I had to disassemble the carb to free it up in order to avoid damage when trying to turn it the first time.

The float bowl screws were so loose that the bowls wiggled.

The brand new red "re-usable" gaskets were destroyed by disassembling the bowls and metering blocks, like the Holley brown gaskets will do. A new carb with such obvious defects warranted a tear-down if for no other reason than for safety. Cost: expensive gasket set before I ever even mounted the carb for the first time.

The Idle Eze, if it is supposed to be there, has to be or you'll have a large uncontrolled air bypass. Take the baseplate off the carb and check to see what has been drilled or not drilled.
If for some reason your carb was produced without one, you have nothing to worry about really, but if it's missing you need to know and fix it. Again, take the baseplate off and see what's up. It's not difficult.

To be fair, the Holley 850 DP which was set up for me by Sean Murphy Induction was returned to me with no jets whatsoever (! no kidding), and the jetless metering blocks switched between pri/sec mounting.

Lesson: you never know, anything could have happened to your carb. Both of the suppliers mentioned above enjoy many supporters and good reputations.
You get what you get, not what you think you are getting.

Eric
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,731 Posts
I also ran into similar issues with my BG 850. The front bowl will leak unless torqued tight as I can get it.

The Idle Eze has no affect.

When changing out the power valve, found metal shavings in the carb, and took a pic in the event I needed to send it back.

Other than that, it works really well.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am not having any issues with my carb. I actually like it a lot. But were the idle-ez us supposed to be there isn't. I was able to look down the hole where the air filter stud goes and there is no adjustmant screw.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Eventually my Mighty seemed to change its ability to hold a tune.
Like Wildman said, my Idle Ez had no effect whatsoever, although it did when brand new, and despite another tear-down and a very thorough cleaning, the carb began to act up like a Holley will when the air bleeds get dirty. I was never able to discover why, but it should be said that I did not go so far as to re-machine the castings. Privately I always have suspected that the finished/machined casting had never been cleaned very well and there were chips present in some of the passages.

The customer service at Barry Grant sucked. Not my opinion, just the result I got whenever I asked for help. Strictly a clinical observation that I am reporting here.

In the end, the carb ran so lean that it constantly bogged, but laughably it got very good mileage once you got up to a steady speed due to the overly lean mixture.
Adusting the idle mix would send it rich almost immediately, no matter which of the 4 you would turn.

The original cam I ran with this carb was the stock ZZ454 roller, a pretty mild cam that idled at 15-16".
Arguably, it could be said that the 850 might be too large for a mild-cammed 454, but the intake was an Air-Gap and that plus the head/valve combo contribute to great signal at idle in these engines. The Mighty had Annular boosters, which also would tend to compensate for a too-large venturi at idle by cutting down some of the cfm due to larger booster size, and the increased sensitivity and atomization of that booster design.
I don't subscribe to this, however. Properly tuned, which means using the correct intake manifold and proper timing curves, the 850 really is not too much cfm for a 454 with mild or greater performance build.

I too had to crank down on the float bowl screws to the point of worrying whether I might have distorted the main body in order to get them to stop leaking.

If I were to get another BG carb, I'd treat it as a kit, one which should be viewed as owner-responsibility to clean, measure, assemble, and tune.

As an aside, I found the DVD which accompanied my carb to be utterly worthless in tuning or modifying for a purpose.
Therefore, since I am an independent filmmaker, I produced a 45-minute film going into great detail on the teardown, cleaning, repair, theory, and rebuilding of a Quadrajet carburetor, just to see if it could be done. No window dressing, just hard facts and a complete teardown and rebuild, close-up, HD quality, complete narrative explanation, etc etc.

ARE YOU LISTENING BARRY GRANT?

Here's my Mighty on my ZZ mill. It's now injected, and I love it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I appreciate everyones help. Like I said I am not really having any problems with my carb like everyone else does. My question simply was do I just have an older version of the carb that did not come with the idle ez? I am asking because it runs GREAT. At idle it still is a little rich and I think that is because the butter flys are open too far. The idle-ez is SUPPOSED to fix that. I do not have one and there for I think that I need to come up with another way to keep the idle up, but lean it out.

thanks
Tom
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top