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'81 Chevy C30 dually, NV4500 swap woes.

2575 Views 11 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Richard/SIA
'81 Chevy C30 dually, SBC 350 to NV4500 swap woes.
Hoping this may be informative for anyone else considering an NV4500 swap.

Since I had to pull the engine anyway for a rebuild I thought this would be the best time to upgrade to an overdrive transmission.
Found an early NV4500 with "Granny low" at a decent price and bought it.
Seems that was the last smooth transaction.
Had to exchange the first Advance Adapters (AA) kit as it was wrong for my transmission.
Not too big a deal as Summit Racing had the correct part in stock, just an exchange.
Also had to buy the kit for using the original mechanical clutch linkage. Still no big deal.
Thanks to CCP Virus the whole project got delayed several months.
Finally got my engine back from the machine shop and assembled, test ran it on my stand.

Now finally trying to bolt everything up for putting into the truck, and the real problems begin.
Being a heavy truck it has always had a 12" clutch.
At the very bottom of the page AA says to use an 11" clutch with their kit. :(
This was not made clear when I bought the kit from Summit.
I contacted AA tech support and was told this is due to their making the Bell Housing "Compact" so that the kit would work in Toyota Land Bruisers and Jeeps.
But they also stated that "Some 12 do fit", "some will fit after a little grinding".
"Put it together and see if it turns".
My feeling is that real trucks should not have to use an undersize clutch for the kit to work.

Today I finally got to bolt the trans and bell to my engine. Pro-Tip, the NV4500 is really very heavy!

At 65 YOA I'm past crawling around on the ground with a flashlight trying to determine if parts are clearing.
So tomorrow I get to try to hoist the whole assembly onto a steel table that I think will bear the weight.

I was not able to turn the engine over from the crank nut so expect to find a clearance issue.
The clutch cover I have is fairly low profile so I hope to be able to make it fit.
It's been on the shelf too long to exchange for an 11" version.

With the kit assembled I found one more issue, the clutch TO arm bottoms at the rear of the opening before the TO bearing can depress the clutch.
This is the TO bearing and arm supplied by AA.
That pretty much guarantees that I will have to change either the pressure plate, TO Bearing, or both.
No way I make my planned trip to pick up cars and and an engine next weekend. :mad:
I'm already overdue and the sellers are getting impatient.

I have to get the engine and trans back into the truck before I may make measurements to determine how much to have my forward driveshaft shortened. Measuring both trans I believe it will be 6" but the shop doing the driveshaft insist I measure with the engine/trans in place.

Just to be sure, but I believe the 11" and 12" clutches will fit the same 168 tooth flywheel, correct?
If I must go to an 11" clutch what would be recommended for long life?
Please remember, freight and towing use, not racing.
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Made the 120 mile round trip to Summit today so that I will have my new longer TO bearing ready to try in the morning.
Adds 1/2", hopefully enough.
Not certain how far the diaphragm has to depress for a clean release, anyone know?
Relieved to find the new TO bearing works fine.
Simple enough that I would expect Advance Adapters to have had the answer.
I wonder if they will make a note once I clue them in?

Next challenge is getting this setup back into the truck.
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Same 350 that came out, well the same block, crank, and rods.
New heads and intake.
The engine is in at last, sort of.
In all the reading I did before starting the NV4500 conversion there was zero mention of having to modify or replace the transmission crossmember.
I was left with the very strong impression that once I had the bell-housing it would be a bolt-in swap except for getting the driveshaft shortened.
Not true! The rear on an NV4500 is very square and bulky, right up to the mount.
It will NOT clear the forward facing flange of the crossmember although the mount itself is correct.
So for the moment the trans is hanging from a chain until I get this sorted.
My hope is that I may be able to just cut away the obstructing flange area.
If it look weak I will fab some reinforcement. Pics if there is interest.
If removing some of the flange does not do it them I will have either modify this one pretty heavily or make/buy a complete replacement.
My chances of getting underway for my trip by Friday are looking pretty slim.
Finally moved under its own power!
Very short test drive as the dash is still apart and the Q-Jet is not working right.
Much nicer shifting than the old SM465 but I will have to get used to the new ratios.
Confirmed I do have the "Granny" first gear as desired.
Have a slight clicking from the clutch when fully depressed.
No way to inspect like the old bell's with the open bottoms. :(
Now I will go ahead and finish modifying the trans cover, then put the dash back together.
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Finally moved under its own power!
Very short test drive as the dash is still apart and the Q-Jet is not working right.
Much nicer shifting than the old SM465 but I will have to get used to the new ratios.
Confirmed I do have the "Granny" first gear as desired.
Have a slight clicking from the clutch when fully depressed.
No way to inspect like the old bell's with the open bottoms. :(
Now I will go ahead and finish modifying the trans cover, then put the dash back together.
Here is my PSA for the group.
The part number for the speedometer sensor PLUG is GM# 19368868.
I had to pay $67.00 at the stealership to obtain this part and it's number.
Now that I know the part number they are available on-line for half what I paid.

And in engine news, my buddy with good hearing came by today.
Seems I have an intake manifold vacuum leak.
So redoing the intake next Tuesday. Seems odd to have to order SBC gaskets, must be showing my age.
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Removed and replaced the intake manifold.
Used Hylomar on the gaskets this time guarantee no leaks.
Also replaced the vacuum line with one that fits tighter.
Q-Jet still does not respond to the idle screws. :censored:
Stuck the dash back in and the temp gauge is not working now.
I have to be moved out of my shop in town by Wednesday, this truck is on the road ready or not!
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