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73 chevelle brake problems.

1189 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  73ssbb
I have been working on my 73 ss brakes with no change, the brakes are very soft and go all the way to the floor very easy and the dash brake light is on. well I put a brand new booster and master cylinder on, with no change. I bleed the brakes there dont seem to be any air in them, but when the brakes are pumped I have noticed that the fluid dont jet out, it just comes out slow and steady out the end of the bleed valve.Im not sure what to do next
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Did you bench bleed the Master Cylinder before trying to bleed the wheel positions?
3
From the way you mentioned it, "...but when the brakes are pumped I have noticed that the fluid dont jet out, it just comes out slow and steady out the end of the bleed valve," it may be possible that the safety valve in the combination valve may has tripped. Disconnect the warning light wire from the combo valve and take the nylon/plastic fitting out of the center. You should see a dip in the center of the internal valve mechanism if the valve did not trip. If it did trip, the dip will be to the front or rear of the valve. If it tripped, use a thin screw driver to recenter the valve. When I redid my system I had a problem with tripping the valve. I bought the handy tool that you see in the pics (with the directions). Also, I made a tool to hold the button in on the combo valve as that is recommended when bleeding the system. The button relieves the pressure that holds off the disk brakes momentarily so that the rear drum brakes have time to start to work; this enables the disk/drum systems to operate properly together. Again, this may be a possibility.

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Did you bench bleed the Master Cylinder before trying to bleed the wheel positions?
yes

From the way you mentioned it, "...but when the brakes are pumped I have noticed that the fluid dont jet out, it just comes out slow and steady out the end of the bleed valve," it may be possible that the safety valve in the combination valve may has tripped. Disconnect the warning light wire from the combo valve and take the nylon/plastic fitting out of the center. You should see a dip in the center of the internal valve mechanism if the valve did not trip. If it did trip, the dip will be to the front or rear of the valve. If it tripped, use a thin screw driver to recenter the valve. When I redid my system I had a problem with tripping the valve. I bought the handy tool that you see in the pics (with the directions). Also, I made a tool to hold the button in on the combo valve as that is recommended when bleeding the system. The button relieves the pressure that holds off the disk brakes momentarily so that the rear drum brakes have time to start to work; this enables the disk/drum systems to operate properly together. Again, this may be a possibility.
and I will try that hopefully tomorrow and see how it looks, thanks for the advice. i will post up my results
well I just crawled under the beast and had a look at the combination valve and it looks horrible so I didnt even try to mess with it, its also leaking,so im thinking I might as well go ahead and buy a new one.
update, brake light has went out and no leaks after we bled for seemed like forever, but the problem is that I dont think the booster is working the brakes stop but the pedal is much to hard, so im on my secnd new booster and still the same thing, it seems to be getting plenty of vacuum. so im not sure what to do next, new everything just about and no air and has been bled very well.
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